1999 S70 GLT: Prolonged Cranking to start when cold

denraden03 · Post by **denraden03** » 10 Feb 2016, 12:10

After I did my last post, I did a search on P0013
Based on what I read, I am pretty sure that I did the timing by the book. Locked camshafts and turned the exhaust cam gear clockwise from the "rest" position to install the belt. However, I am going to check the timing again, just to be sure. The other thing that's left is the CVVT Solenoid. I cleaned this area properly prior to installing the CVVT solenoid. Are there any tests to perform before condemning the unit?
What is the ohm value at the solenoid?
Can the CVVT unit go bad? As it is I can turn it clockwise and it springs back when I let it go. No a proper test but it's all I got for now.
If any one has the readings for the CVVT solenoid, please post.

Post by **sleddriver** » 12 Feb 2016, 20:44

I recently had this problem on my 98. Cold front blew in. Car suddenly very hard to start. When I pulled the wiring harness from the ECT (engine coolant temp) sensor, fooling the control unit into thinking the car was very, very cold (infinite resistance), it quickly started up. So I installed a new ECT and no more hard starts when cold.

denraden03 · Post by **denraden03** » 13 Feb 2016, 17:55

I AM TRYING TO WRAP MY HEAD AROUND THE OPERATION OF THE CVVT HUB AND SOLENOID: PLEASE READ MY RANT.
I drove the car today and the CEL came back on Code P0013. How do I check the CVVT solenoid and the CVVT Hub. It says "OPEN CIRCUIT" so I am assuming that the computer is not seeing voltage at the CVVT solenoid. What should the voltage be at the connector? I am seeing 12 volts. Is voltage constant at the connector and the circuit is grounded by the computer to activate the solenoid based on the running engine parameters.
Can anyone explain to me how the solenoid functions? or rather what are the requirements for the solenoid to operate? It says it is variable so I am opining that it does not work at full tilt all the time.Or as engine RPM increases it varies the valve timing. But then again since the exhaust cam gear is spring loaded, is it a centrifugal advance or retard based on RPM and the solenoid is used to dampen the movement?
I am thinking that 12 volts would be constant at the solenoid and the computer would provide the ground circuit to trigger the solenoid. Am I wrong? I can find this info anywhere.
Unless I understand how this is supposed to function, my diagnostic capability is at a standstill. I don't want to purchase costly parts, replace it only to find out i still have the same problem.

denraden03 · Post by **denraden03** » 13 Feb 2016, 17:58

LINE 9 SHOULD READ" I CAN'T FIND THIS INFO ANYWHERE"

denraden03 · Post by **denraden03** » 26 Feb 2016, 05:37

Update: Engine is taking about 1 -2 minutes of cranking to start. At the rate I am going I will have to replace my starter soon. Once the car starts, it will start normally for the rest of the day. It is the first start of the day that is killing me.
Here is what I have done so far to try and narrow down the cause of this problem.
Replaced CTS with an aftermarket one. See resistance readings in one of my previous posts. I have 4 sensors and the readings are all the same.
Replaced fuel relay with a known good one.
Fuel pressure is good. Key 'ON' pressure immediately is at 55 psi (i stated earlier that it was 44 psi. That was an error on my part)
Replaced coils with another good set that I have.
Rechecked spark plugs.
Even though I am aware that most of the stuff I have done (with the exception of the CTS and fuel related items) is unrelated(?) to the existing problem, I did it because I have the extra good parts.
So now that I am "flying blind", the question is whether the MAF, Crank Sensor or Cam Sensor can act up only when cold, but good enough not to throw a code, and work well when warm.
Any ideas?

Post by **phils94850** » 26 Feb 2016, 05:43

Did you have a crank position sensor code come up ? Did you ever change that sensor ?

Post by **abscate** » 26 Feb 2016, 09:00

Next cold start lets put some starter fluid into the air cleaner and see if that fires it up. That will at least isolate fuel from ignition problem.

denraden03 · Post by **denraden03** » 26 Feb 2016, 10:35

I introduced some fuel into the intake and cranked the engine and it did the same thing. Thinking that I had too much fuel, I disconnected all 5 of the fuel injectors and the car started right away. After the introduced fuel was consumed, I reconnected the injectors and the car started up right away. I am wondering whether I have too little fuel on a cold start or too much fuel. I kinda screwed up on the test. I will now have to wait until tomorrow to verify. Can I jump the CTS connector to send the reference voltage (5volts)back to the ECM? I just want to verify that the cold start reference signal is getting back to the ECM to see what happens.

Post by **abscate** » 26 Feb 2016, 11:02

Putting voltages back into the ECM is a really bad, expensive idea. Th reason you use starter fluid and not fuel is exactly what you wrote - one has no idea is its a flooded or lean condition sloshing fuel in. You are also likely to add LMS to the mix.

denraden03 · Post by **denraden03** » 26 Feb 2016, 13:58

I understand what you are saying. Assuming that I use starter fluid, the vehicle will start, so that rules out the ignition system.
What's the difference between using starter fluid and using gasoline if the car will start using either of the two.
How will the starter fluid help me to isolate the problem. ENLIGHTEN ME please. I am kinda loss for the moment.
Given that I put the gasoline in and cranked the engine with the injectors working the car did not start. As soon as I disabled the injectors the car started.
I am going to surmise that if I used starter fluid the same thing may happen. Then what?
I will purchase some starter fluid today and test it tomorrow and post the results.

1999 S70 GLT: Prolonged Cranking to start when cold

Re: 1999 S70 GLT: Prolonged Cranking to start when cold