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96 850 A/C condensor question

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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abscate
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Re: 96 850 A/C condensor question

Post by abscate »

You could put 15 psi into it safely and see if it holds overnight. That way you don't blow freon into the environment in the test.

The oil in the system doesn't leak or evaporate out.

If it's been up to air for a long time, expect it to work for one summer max.

I have two 13 year old vehicles that have never had the AC serviced or " needed a can of AC death"
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Pezgoon
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Year and Model: 1993 850 GLT
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Post by Pezgoon »

MIJ, I was hoping to avoid that because I almost guarantee it wont hold and I not only dont wanna throw away the money I dont want to essentially vent the Freon straight into the environment, I'm of the age where I will be feeling the consequences of it lol

I want to simply put pressure in the system to see how BADLY its leaking and from where to see if its salvageable. My grandparent I got it from is no help because they were surprised when I said it didn't work lol.

The car is 23 years old abscate and wasn't owned by an enthusiast or someone mechanically inclined. When I removed the resistor for the fan I took a look inside and the evaporator was COVERED in crap. I'm not sure if that is the only part of the system that is rotted out though, the lines near the radiator are so rusted I dont think they will hop very much pressure. Although I'd like to use the Freon to get dye into the system, I think ill be fine with listening for the leaks and using the soapy water to look.

If I do the compressed air I still have to jump the compressor correct?

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Post by MadeInJapan »

You'll have to jump the compressor to get air past it, so yes, but don't let it turn to much...without much pressure behind it, running it for to long will break it. That said, another option is to go to your local parts store and "rent" one of their vacuum machines. Pull a vacuum on the system and see if it holds that! Autozone takes a deposit for the price of the machine and then gives it back when you return it in our area.
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Pezgoon
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Post by Pezgoon »

Ok great, I figured run it for 10 seconds then wait 10 or 20 then run 10 seconds etc, I have looked at their list of tools and didn't remember seeing one but I will go in and ask if they have one. Is it the same procedure? Like having to run the compressor I mean or do I simply pull a vacuum and see what happens? Which is better? (compressed air or vacuum)

Thanks

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Post by Ozark Lee »

A vacuum will verify the integrity of the system. If it holds a vacuum things are good, if the vacuum doesn't hold there is a leak but you don't necessarily know where. With compressed air you can also verify the integrity of the system and along with the soap solution you can, in some cases, find the leak.

If the system pressure has never been all the way to zero you don't want to introduced compressed air since it is so moist. In that case always use a vacuum. If the system has been flat then you are going to have to replace the accumulator with the dryer anyway and you will further need to pull a vacuum after the accumulator is changed and prior to recharging the system. The vacuum will remove the residual moisture that was introduced by the air compressor.

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Post by E Showell »

I have read a lot of A/C threads on this forum. Many recount slow leaks where the freon charge escapes over the course of a cooling season and gets recharged the following year. I recently had the Schraeder valve and corresponding o-ring replaced in my S70. Tellingly, when I bought those parts at the local dealer parts counter, I was told when they did A/C maintenance at the dealership they "replaced a lot of Schraeder valves." I don't read about a lot of that going on with owners on this site. That replacement fixed my A/C completely, for a relatively modest cost. Has anybody with a slowly leaking system ever considered just replacing the Schraeder valve and o-ring as opposed to recharging every year? Try it, you might like it.
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Post by scot850 »

Had a similar issue with my portable compressor drain valve. Took it apart and found the 'o' ring seal had crumbled. Replaced the 'o' ring from my stash and now it holds pressure better than it ever did! Evan you make a very good point. I may just add that to the shopping list before trying to re-gas the A/C. 20 year old seal will be questionable.

Thanks,

Neil.
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