'98 V70 base, FWD, 5 speed. Bearing Scratchy Sound

Post by **cuhfs** » 17 Jul 2016, 21:02

An automotive stethoscope may give you better accuracy versus the hose method. I think they're cheap and even at harbor freight too.

Post by **850 LPT** » 18 Jul 2016, 13:16

I would take the serpentine belt off and then listen.

If it is a bearing in the tensioner, alternator, compressor or ps pump, it will go away. If the noise is gone spin these components by hand and listen / feel.

Hope this helps, Dirk

Post by **E Showell** » 18 Jul 2016, 18:43

Never removed the serpentine belt (I guess I must have years ago for some cylinder head work but have no recollection of same). Big job?

Post by **scot850** » 18 Jul 2016, 19:21

It isn't too hard Evan. On the serpentine belt tensioner there should be one of 2 methods to 'un-tension'. Look on the tensioner for a square hole. There is a long lever you can buy cheaply that inserts into the square hole to allow you to de-tension enough to remove the belt. The tool below from IPD also has a wire lever that then locks the tensioner out of the way by passing through 2 holes when aligned:

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5830/10 ... -belt-tool

You can also use a 1/2" or 3/8" (can't recall) socket wrench for this but it may not give enough purchase or may be too deep to get access between the tensioner and the inner fender.

I seem to recall buying a tool cheap at Princess Auto in Canada, but your equivalent would be Harbor Freight. A sturdy nail will do for the locking tool.

Later tensioners use a Torx tool to do this job in place of the handy square hole. Then you need a stubby Torx socket (T50?) to do the job.

#1 thing to do first is to take photos of the path of your serpentine belt as there are 2 ways this can run. The original and the augmented contact at the alternator. Either way take pictures of the route!!

Good luck!

Neil.

Post by **E Showell** » 23 Jul 2016, 14:13

OK so, I made a plumbing cap serpentine belt release tool and have managed to remove the serpentine belt. I have spun the pulleys by hand. Power steering pulley seems OK. Alternator pulley OK as well. Tensioner & idler seem OK. I cannot turn the a/c compressor pulley by hand. Is that how it should be, or should that pulley spin freely as well? I haven't started the car without the belt yet. I was waiting for someone to weigh in on this post. I am fairly certain that I know the answer to my own question -- but hey -- you can't turn the crank pulley freehand. . .

Also, it will be at least a week before I can get to the a/c compressor repair. Can I leave the tensioner locked in the released position with a locking pin inserted, or should I remove the locking pin and allow the tensioner to return to the "at rest" position?

Post by **abscate** » 23 Jul 2016, 15:51

The front of the AC pulley is attached to the compressor innards and won't turn

The ridged pulley part should freewheel, if it doesn't.....asked and answered, Counselor.

I wouldn't sweat leaving the tensioner in.

Post by **E Showell** » 23 Jul 2016, 16:20

Ridged part of a/c compressor does not turn. Compressor is toast. I'll see if I can score a good used one at Harry's. Steve -- I may be headed out there next weekend.

Post by **JRL** » 24 Jul 2016, 11:38

C'mon guys either buy or borrow a (automotive) stethescope

'98 V70 base, FWD, 5 speed. Bearing Scratchy Sound

Re: '98 V70 base, FWD, 5 speed. Bearing Scratchy Sound