P0016 after cleaning CVVT Solenoids

[F250]

Now that you have everything clean, just start over as if you had done nothing. Fresh beginnings, fresh eyes. Don't waste time worrying about or fooling with the technique of "1/4 turn past and then counterclockwise back to the marks". If you overrun the mark lineup, then keep going two more turns clockwise and try again. To help myself, I used some white out to put a spot on the crank serp pulley and the frame as "almost there" reference marks (I did NOT remove the serp pulley to replace my belt, which might have been easier, but I didn't). Once your "almost there" marks line up, slow down the turning and watch very closely with very small rotational movements until you have the crank exactly right... then lock the rear cams and proceed. BOTH hubs must be rotated to their complete clockwise limit position, and you must have good solid tension between the intake hub gear and crank, and also between the two hub gears. You can use your three fine adjustment bolts (8mm) on each hub to obtain this tension, but it might shift your hub gear timing marks away from the upper cover slots, and this is truly OK because it is the hubs needing to be in their completely relaxed position with good belt tension which will line up your best timing positions. If your timing marks on the gears end up offset with the proper hub positions and belt tension, so be it... just use your paint pen to mark the NEW positions for any future reference.

CVVT hubs... I do not know if they are serviceable, but I would not do that at your mileage. My daughter's car was at 166K when I did hers. To inspect the hubs well, you need to remove them from the cams, and you DO need the rear cam locking tool for that job, as you are already aware. To inspect them, once they are removed, stick one finger inside the hub bushing and spin the hub while holding the bushing stable. Also, push the bushing in and out axially (in and out at right angles to the hub diameter) while also checking for radial play (across the hub diameter). What you want to check for is how smooth the bushing movement feels. If it feels gritty, replace them, even though the actual amount of radial and axial movement may be almost exactly the same as that of brand new units -- I found mine to be within tenths of a mm in the range of movement as compared to the brand new hubs, so there was not an extreme amount of play, but they also felt gritty when moving the bushing or spinning the hubs on the bushings. I also discovered that when the hubs are mounted on the cam shaft, if you EVER spin them counterclockwise while they are secured to the cam, they will puke more oil... as long as you only rotate them from their extreme counterclockwise position towards their clockwise extreme position, they will not purge any oil out onto the hub and belt/gears/pulleys. I KNOW they are expensive, but if you are inclined to replace them, the best price I found was at Tasca Parts where the pair were a hair over $500.

I also discovered that even though the hub bushings' range of movement on the new hubs was almost the same as the ones I took off, they were butter smooth in their movement, and I would forget and accidentally spin the hubs counterclockwise while they were on the cam shafts, the new ones would puke less oil than the old ones I removed, and I took that as excellent confirmation that even though I could not measure the exact amount of wear, it was there all the same. After all, I don;t know how much range of movement existed on the original hubs when they were brand new, so I only had a different pair of hubs for comparison, and manufacturing tolerances keeps that from being an absolute comparison anyway.

[ZuluSafari]

Thank you for the replies so far.

So, am I stuck until my camshaft locking tool comes in?

[F250]

Maybe, but only if whatever you're trying to do involves loosening or removing those T55 center hub bolts at all without that locking tool... just don't do THAT without the tool! Anything else which does not involve loosening those T55 bolts, though, you should be able to take care of before it arrives.

[jonesg]

This video helped me out when I did mine.

[ZuluSafari]

This video helped me out when I did mine.

Yes, I have watched that one a few times, but am still confused by the need to turn the crankshaft 1/4 turn forward, then backing the whole thing up to re-align the timing marks. Their exhaust camshaft then needed to be turned by hand (with a screwdriver) backward some more, to align the camshaft for locking tool installation. Seems counterintuitive, to always need to be "unloading" then "reloading" the CVVT hubs like this.

[ZuluSafari]

I went ahead and replaced the intake Camshaft Position Sensor, as I found the old one made no difference to the engine running condition when left unplugged. Initially, the system responded well to the new sensor, and overall the lumpy idle is lessened - it no longer feels like it wants to die at each intersection. I will receive my new parts later this week or first part of next, but the car is at least drivable until then.

[F250]

I'm in the process of completing a thorough and illustrated compilation of everything meaningful I've been able to find on setting CVVT hubs on our P2's. It will be a CVVT for Dummies because that's where I was when I had to climb the vertical learning curve of properly setting timing with new CVVT hubs.

Hopefully, the technical details I've compiled from others, along with a few "watch-out-for" notes and a few "this-might-also-help" observations might come together to help relive the stress you feel over venturing into this unchartered territory. I'll try to finish the PDF tonight and post it tomorrow.

[ZuluSafari]

I look forward to reading it! I am also looking forward to getting my camshaft locking tool, so I can be more confident in my work! I don't want to take any chance bending or otherwise harming the valve train.

[F250]

I'm about 70% complete on the PDF right now. It might take me an extra day to complete, but it WILL get done.

[F250]

Complete... I posted the PDF in a new thread... https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =9&t=77183