2000 V70R- Like sucks some times.....

Post by **scot850** » 16 Sep 2016, 09:57

Thanks ben. The secret I think is to replace the top hose with a new Volvo one. I find the aftermarket radiators don't have the internal metal sleeve the Volvo ones have (I don't know if they still do been 4 years since buying my last one) in the top pipe. Also they usually have a seam that runs the length of the top hose outlet and this is not always well formed. Using an old upper radiator pipe often prevents the rubber forming a new seal and you have to be careful how tight you tighten the top hose clamp as it can deform/stress the upper connection and then repeat......

So looks like a Nissens will be tried again with a new Volvo top hose. Does anyone know if the Nissens or Volvo radiators still come with the cooler hose hardware?

Just spoke to the dealer and they said not our fault. We supported the engine correctly when moving the sub-frame. Staggered at the radiator price $500 + tax CDN (about $375 + tax US). Still about the same from FCP with shipping, but at least FCP has a lifetime warranty which Volvo only gives if you buy from them and they install.

Thanks for all the input guys.

Neil.

Post by **erikv11** » 16 Sep 2016, 10:17

scot850 wrote: ... Just spoke to the dealer and they said not our fault. We supported the engine correctly when moving the sub-frame. ....

I know you have good rapport with these guys but this is just BS. Lightning strikes once (broken upper rad tube) maybe, but not twice in the same place in rapid succession (right after shop work that moved the engine). Good rapport is supposed to help people be reasonable when something like this happens, this would ding my trust in them if it were my local dealer (easy for me to say, we have no local dealer ...).

Post by **scot850** » 16 Sep 2016, 10:24

Usually I have a good rapport with them and we have had our differences in the past, but usually find a resolution or acceptable compromise. This time it is a flat no. If I had bad engine mounts (usually the main cause of this issue) then I'd agree, but 4/5 or is it 6? main mounts have been replaces in the last 5k miles by the dealer! It definitely leaves a bad taste I have to say. I am praying that the head gasket survived!

Neil.

Post by **matthew1** » 16 Sep 2016, 14:52

How long was the temp gauge in red? Seconds or minutes? Any white smoke from the tailpipe?

Post by **scot850** » 16 Sep 2016, 15:05

Not long as I saw it rising and cut through the traffic quickly to get off, then switched the heater on max hot which brought the temp down until I got off the road. So I'd be guessing but less than 20 secs total. No white smoke, but as there is no coolant that is not a guarantee. Won't know until a new radiator goes in and I can run it. I did briefly run the engine when the car was dropped of by the tow truck to park it in the garage and it at least started and ran normally for the 10-15 secs to park it up.

Neil.

Post by **matthew1** » 16 Sep 2016, 15:23

Bet ya it's fine.

Post by **scot850** » 16 Sep 2016, 15:30

Really hope so as the 850 Project went way over as I got carried away trying to make it as perfect as possible for my niece. Then the border/customs jerk issue not letting us to import the car cost over $700 in additional costs, the boss ain't happy which is fair unfortunately for me! So I just don't need a head job just now as I will be getting that applied to my head first with a 2" x 4" application tool! LoL!

I live in hope.....!

Thanks Matthew.

Neil.

Post by **bmdubya1198** » 16 Sep 2016, 15:34

That sucks. I find it unlikely that the car being at the dealer had nothing at all do to with the hose coming off. If the car was only overheating for a minute at most, your head gasket is probably fine. Like someone has already said, a compression test couldn't hurt if you still have suspicions.
I have a Nissens radiator in mine, and it's been fine. Only issue is that my oil cooler hoses are still leaking. I think that has to do more with the o-rings, even though I just replaced them for the second time. I must be doing something wrong.

Post by **scot850** » 16 Sep 2016, 16:29

Thanks for the extra info. I'll look into the compression test once I get it running so I can check the compression warm.

As for the continued leaking it can be one of possibly 2 things. I had a friend recently that had a nightmare getting them on and then staying on.

I usually smear some vasaline on the 'o' rings to make them easier to get into place. First though make sure there is no crap in the 2 ports in the radiator where the hoses go in.

Finally, make sure you fit the 2 metal cage clips the correct way around the wrong way around allows the seals to weep.

If that doesn't work then:

1) Make sure you use Volvo OE 'O' rings
2) The radiator outlets are oversize.

Good luck!

Just ordered a Nissens rad from FCP and new top hoses, clips and 'O' rings. Won't get till end of next week, fortunately the car is a spare for now.

Neil.

Post by **j-dawg** » 16 Sep 2016, 16:48

scot850 wrote:Really need to put a radiator in to get the engine warm enough to do a compression test.

Unless I'm missing something here, you can totally do a compression test cold, especially if you're looking for a busted gasket. The difference between a cold cylinder with good compression and a cold cylinder with a crack in the head gasket will be very apparent.

2000 V70R- Like sucks some times.....

Re: 2000 V70R- Like sucks some times.....