2001 V70 XC rough idle

Post by **abscate** » 05 Nov 2016, 01:28

BradGranath wrote:I'll give that a try, thanks for the 10min response!

MVS is faster than the time it takes to start VIDA....

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 12 Nov 2016, 01:17

Head is off! Indeed, #3 has a burned exhaust valve. The valves don't look great though. So, I'm thinking, new seats guides and valves at the shop.

I'll have them pressure test it and deck it if necessary. Head gasket was not stuck on at all, so the mating surfaces between the head and block are already pretty clean. No evidence of head gasket being compromised or or any loss of integrity of the coolant or oil loops. Pistons don't seem too dirty, factory crosshatching is still visible on the cylinder walls.

I figure I'll do the timing & serpentine belts, tensioner, PCV, and any bad motor mounts while I'm in. The timing belt seemed to be riding pretty far to the edge of the the timing pulleys (see pic). The water pump is smooth and has no excess play. Anything else I should check out? Head gasket kit usually comes with all the little orings and cam seals ya?

Block seems straight and flat. Piston crowns on 2, 3 & 4 have exhaust valve shaped teeth marks on 'em. Bad?

EDIT: sorry for the duplicate posts. the shop laptop decided to have some fun.

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 12 Nov 2016, 03:01

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BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 12 Nov 2016, 03:02

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Post by **precopster** » 12 Nov 2016, 05:52

Nice pics of that burned valve.
Not sure if the HG set you have comes with a turbo drain seal paper gasket.....most don't. Strangely the 2002 motor I picked up recently just had metal to metal there.

The O ring down at the block for the turbo drain seal has always given me grief when I use a Victor Reinz one so from now on it's genuine. Make sure you also get the water pipe gasket at the back of the head and a CVVT paper gasket.

With that many miles on it consider dropping the pan to change the O rings. There are quite a few down there and most of them contribute to oil pressure. While in there you'll get to see the oil pickup screen and remove any barnacles. Choose a Genuine O ring kit so you get the turbo drain seal within.

Post by **abscate** » 12 Nov 2016, 13:07

Yikes - read up on and clean that ETM too.

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 13 Nov 2016, 01:06

For the oilpan, turbo, and the ETM, I'm not headed for zero here, just trying to get back on the road. I don't want to pop an seal somewhere 'cause I restored full pressure, or throw a code by looking crosseyed at the ETM. Same for the turbo gaskets.

I didn't take any of it apart, and it was all functioning, and sealed up not leaking just fine before I pulled the car into the shop.

Post by **precopster** » 13 Nov 2016, 04:22

Yep some things are best left well alone

It's good that you didn't disturb the oil return pipe.

If the ETM flap doesn't bind when pushed fully closed by hand you can probably do without the cleaning.

The timing belt riding toward one edge is cause for concern. The usual culprit is a bad idler pulley.

Post by **abscate** » 13 Nov 2016, 05:06

Those valve teeth marks are actually ok. Check threads but I believe they actually are present on new Pistons.
Are you sure they aren't on all five?

BradGranath · Post by **BradGranath** » 13 Nov 2016, 14:55

Lemme clean 'em off. Maybe it's just carbon buildup. Sure looked like an interference fenderbender.