Reduced Engine Performance only in the Winter at Code Start

[chrism]

Apparently P1167 is another throttle related fault code.

http://www.troublecodes.net/volvo/c30-c ... 2005-2008/

Have you tried cleaning the ECM connection and then reseating the ECM? That fixed mine when I was getting persistent throttle errors. You need a special unlocking tool to unlatch and relatch the ECM. Haynes manual has a drawing to build your own tool.

[rbritt5]

Thanks for the reply. I have not tried cleaning the ECM. I will look into getting the tool for the ECM. Is there a correct way to clean the ECM? I also when I went to start my car again and now when I start it, the rpm go up and down from 1000 to 2000, where in the pass it didn't do this until after i drove it. Rpm only go up in down in Park and neutral, once I'm in gear the rpms go back down to 600/700. I don't know how to describe what the engine sounds like, it more like a putt-putt sound. when I cut the car off, the engine like rough shut off. Also code p0507 came back. So I'm wondering if the MAF sensor or the idle control valve is going bad? Also when i was cleaning the throttle body the throttle blade was a little open, like smaller than a lead pencil. is the blade suppose to be fully closed or a little open.? With different codes coming up I don't wanna replace the parts until I know it bad.

[chrism]

There are spray cleaners like Deoxit or even MAF sensor cleaner that will work to clean the contacts. Yes, the throttle plate should be open a tiny bit in order for the engine to maintain idle. (On older Volvos the plate went completely shut and idle was maintained via an air bypass valve.)

[rbritt5]

So now a need code p0008, having to do with the timing? I'm so confused now. With Code p1167, p0008, p0507 and p2111? I have read that the code p0008 means none of the sensor are bad? At this point I'm more confused and trying to do some research but haven't had any lucky to where I need to start again at? Still has the up and down rpm but not it will shut off, probably a safely thing. If anyone has experience this after cleaning the throttle body, please let me know and where I should start. thanks.

[chrism]

Nearly all, if not ALL, engine sensors feed information to the ECM. So when you start getting SO MANY different fault codes, some of which seem totally unrelated to the others, it's all the more reason to check into the ECM connection. I'm not saying that's your problem for sure, but it's certainly something you want to check out - it costs nothing other than the cost of the unlock tool or the time spent fabricating one. That sure beats spending a bunch of time and money chasing after a whole bunch of other possibilities that seem to come and go randomly. Also, the ECM connection is a known failure point on these cars.

[mrbrian200]

If it continues to be trouble after cleaning you're probably lookin at a new TB. Internal gears to the stepper motor are nylon they can wear down and start to bind/stick intermittently more sensitive to cold weather (my own experience).

Mine was sticking at several positions corresponding to the spacing of the first few teeth on the internal gears around 7, 15, & 28% part throttle range and most of the time wouldn't return fully to the idle stop position with droney lean idle/excessive vibration through the chassis and steering wheel, warm idle speed hundred or two rpm above spec. It can stick in both directions (further closed or open than the ECM wants). Fuel metering is not weighted primarily on actual throttle plate position so it just runs bad and spits codes for lambda/MAF or poor throttle response but rest assured doesn't result in unintended acceleration.

[earthworm]

Three years later, any trueful or correct solution ? Or, did you give up, as I have and just get rid of the entire problem ? It MAY have been a sticking throttle, lets hope so... and lets hope that my fingers can still function at twenty below zero(wind chill factor). On the codes, I think ''Bob is the oil guy" can be helpful ..

[mrbrian200]

So long as you've already ruled out the coolant temp sensor..

This mirrors, close enough, symptoms I had on my '06 2.5T. I feel confident to key in here.

The Bosch electronic throttle bodies are more reliable than the older MM units, yes, but. Occasionally one will have a random issue where the internal mechanism wears out. Reason unknown. The TB on my S60 was bad when I purchased the car at 9yr/85k miles. Yet on many vehicles they last essentially forever. There's a DC motor in there with plastic-like reduction gears between it and the throttle plate. The plastic gears can wear down and start binding.

If your diagnostic tool shows real time data, plug it into the car before starting and watch the throttle plate position. It could be sticking/not opening/sometimes not closing, as mine was doing. Note: on mine the throttle plate responded properly when the engine was off/KPII (the engine-off throttle sweep test). It only goofed up when the engine was running/air passing through the throttle body. As p2111 appears to be a code pointing to the throttle body itself (not the TPS) I say this is probably the path you'll want to investigate next. Reduced engine performance/limp home mode: I had that once or twice in the couple months it took me to figure it out and get a new TB. Most of the time it would just start/run rough and spit various codes related to air-fuel ratio (MAF, Oxygen sensor, fuel trims). Sometimes it would trip a fuel trim DTC while cruising on the highway.

P1167 appears google likely to be the rear oxygen sensor (catalyst monitor). If the AFR is extremely lean/rich due to a failed throttle body, the ecu may get abhorrent readings off that sensor. Doesn't necessarily mean the sensor or catalyst is bad. It might go away once you solve the larger problem up at the engine. If it remains, considering 200k miles, try replacing the sensor before assuming your catalyst is damaged. That is possible, however.

There's an old thread where I outlined this problem. Be forewarned it's a very long rambling topic and not for the faint hearted. The car was new to me, and my first Volvo. That thread amounts to a newbie's attempt to 'decrypt a P2' involving multiple issues and a lot of trial and error. I wouldn't venture off page 6 if I were you. There's a picture showing part of the insides of the throttle body for reference.

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=73999&hilit=vibration&start=50

The throttle body isn't ridiculous expensive, but they aren't cheap either. You'll want to really try to nail it down and verify in diagnostics before spending money on a new one. If you do, be aware that xemodex sells a modified version of these TBs that upgrades the integrated throttle position sensor to a contactless sensor. It's plug and play/no software changes. They weren't selling these yet 5 years ago when I needed a new TB. If they did, that's what would be on my own car. Their part number for that is VO.1020.30711554H.00.20
The calibration xemodex mentions can be accomplished without a scan tool by merely disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, then after reconnecting, without starting the engine turn the key to the run position/KPII and leave it there for 90 seconds. The calibration automatically runs after about 10 seconds anytime you leave at KPII without starting. You should do this anytime you change the TB whether it be the one from xemodex or not.

I've noticed it's usually owners of model years 2005 and 2006 showing up here with issues that I suspect to be this particular fault. Probably 2 on average/year. I've personally seen 2 bad Bosch TBs with this issue: my 2006 S60 and a 2005 V70 in the same very small town I call home. Maybe 7 Volvos in the entire town of 5000 people. We should be careful not to imply that these Bosch Throttle bodies either don't or so rarely fail so as to skip over it. Its sometimes those rare issues people end up scratching their heads over who end up coming here hoping we know something they, or their mechanic doesn't. In my little town, with just a handful of Volvos and two of these TBs going bad (that I'm aware of), it might actually be a little more 'common' failure point.

[oragex]

You can also open the cover of these 2003-up throttle bodies. It's secured with 4 metal clips, just push them off, and you have access inside. As mentioned, the mechanism is really simple and looks robust, not sure what can go wrong with these but worth a close look for any damage to the gears, etc. I believe a used one should be a plug&play - to be confirmed.

[RickHaleParker]

can't find what p1167 is on a Volvo?

On a 2005 S60 2.5, P1167 = ECM-92CC (Throttle unit Signal too high ) or ECM-92CD (Throttle unit Signal too low )

Possible source: applies to both too high and too low.

Adaptation of the throttle unit is cancelled because one of the following basic requirements has not been met:

• 1. Ignition on / engine off
  2. The battery voltage must be over 10 V
  3. Accelerator pedal (AP) unaffected
  4. The vehicle must be stationary (no vehicle speed signal)
  5. Engine coolant temperature (ECT) between 5-100°C
  6. Intake air temperature (IAT) above 5 °C.

Take notice of the temperature requirements.

• The throttle is sticking or is blocked (e.g. oil film, dust)
  Contact resistance or oxidation in the terminals between the engine control module (ECM) and the electronic throttle unit
  Damaged throttle unit.

Start by cleaning the crud out of the Throttle unit and the electrical connectors to the Throttle unit. You may need to pull the ECM and clean the connectors