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Labor Fee Q

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
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sleddriver
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Re: Labor Fee Q

Post by sleddriver »

EstVolvo wrote:What kind of rack was required for your car and what kind of rack was installed?
There are two different rack types, I think. Maybe you have been getting wrong parts, check it out, it may change everything.
Good Q. The 12yr old one was a TRW.
I didn't chose the replacement part: The shop did.
How are the two racks you mention different?
Please Advise.
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sleddriver
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Post by sleddriver »

abscate wrote:I think MVS should be liable for me putting on my intercooler upside down....Ill let you know how that works out.

:-)
WTH?
How is this pertinent, much less helpful, abscate?
What does MVS have to do with my issue?
I didn't install either part, nor were they installed upside down fool!

Please back away from the keyboard and refrain from any further "advice".
You're not helping nor is your making light of my situation.

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sleddriver
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Post by sleddriver »

beigg wrote:If the tech/shop that did the work lacks a process to evaluate and/or test the vehicle after completing the repair leaving the customer to do that, I'd expect no additional labor/costs involved for or at a minimum a heavily discounted labor rate. If they do have the aforementioned process and is documented, it depends how long after the repair of the part failing in determining liability.
As stated, the replacement began CLUNKING WITHIN A WEEK. The problem was verified by two shop mechanics.

The car was allowed to sit overnight before I picked it up so that all air bubbles could disperse, minimizing noise. When started the next day around 1pm, it was reported to me the PS pump loudly growled and the wheel really shook! The temp that evening probably hit close to 35°F.
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Post by scot850 »

The type of rack fitted to your car is listed in the code on your chassis plate under the hood on the LHS inner fender by the battery. The last line on the right of the plate has 8 or so characters. One of those (the last one) tells you what was fitted from new and I think you stated TRW so that digit would be a '4'. If it was an SMI it would be a '5'.

I always understood the 2 racks are interchangeable as long as you swap the inner and outer tie rod ends for the correct rack (they are different lengths depending on rack manufacturer).

As to why they should 'feel' different as you have found out I can not advise as to why. Sorry. I'd expect them to act the same.

Sorry for all the hassle you are having with this.

Neil.
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Post by rspi »

Most shops give a 1 year, 90 day, 30 day warranty on the labor. You need to know their policy.
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Post by beigg »

sleddriver wrote:
beigg wrote:If the tech/shop that did the work lacks a process to evaluate and/or test the vehicle after completing the repair leaving the customer to do that, I'd expect no additional labor/costs involved for or at a minimum a heavily discounted labor rate. If they do have the aforementioned process and is documented, it depends how long after the repair of the part failing in determining liability.
As stated, the replacement began CLUNKING WITHIN A WEEK. The problem was verified by two shop mechanics.

The car was allowed to sit overnight before I picked it up so that all air bubbles could disperse, minimizing noise. When started the next day around 1pm, it was reported to me the PS pump loudly growled and the wheel really shook! The temp that evening probably hit close to 35°F.
Whoa their killer. Was just posting thoughts to an overall situation for others that might see benefit from the reading.

A week is short term; Any respected reputable honest shop would not think twice to make your situation right if they were the servicer.
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Post by tryingbe »

rspi wrote: You need to know their policy.


This.

NOTHING else anyone says or does matter.
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Post by matthew1 »

scot850 wrote:The type of rack fitted to your car is listed in the code on your chassis plate under the hood on the LHS inner fender by the battery.
In case anyone following along needs more than Neil's description to get his rack type: Steering rack type identification.
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sleddriver
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Post by sleddriver »

5F 2 P E V S
Its either 4F2PEV5 or 4F2PEVS. I rubbed it twice and the last digit is almost certainly an S as in SAM. What I understand is seven digits means TRW and the value of the last digit is irrelevant so it doesn’t matter that it might be a 5.
The rack that badly leaked was clearly a TRW as I saw it stamped on the body. Also had a round cap on the bottom.
Replacement was a 9213M which Maval lists as appropriate. The replacement came with inner tie rods included.

Now, how does all of this help with my original first post?

Q: Why are some steering wheels easy to turn and others not-so-easy?
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sleddriver
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Post by sleddriver »

rspi wrote:Most shops give a 1 year, 90 day, 30 day warranty on the labor. You need to know their policy.
I concur. A rack that begins to CLUNK within a week is obviously defective. They're trying to tell me that no labor is warrantied. Period. "We can't get reimbursed". However I was told when I made the appointment by another dude "We can't get reimbursed, therefore we just have to eat the labor cost." As their talking out of both sides of their mouth, which is right?

The old man is putting the financial burden on me instead of his own son. That's not right nor fair.
1998 V70 T5 226,808 miles. Original Owner.
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