Login Register

Thinking of buying a 05 S60 2.5t

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

Post Reply
jbeebo
Posts: 107
Joined: 1 May 2013
Year and Model: S60, 2005
Location: suburbia
Been thanked: 3 times

Re: Thinking of buying a 05 S60 2.5t

Post by jbeebo »

Car prices you're quoting are suspiciously low, based on my search experience. Re: S60 or V70 - take you pick they are substantially identical.

I'd say F250's list of repairs is pretty typical of most any pass-car with 165K miles, regardless of maker. I bought a 2005 S60 2.4L B5244S6 for $6000 with 120K miles a couple years ago, my first Volvo. Bought this particular one because body and interior were in great shape and tranny shifted perfectly. I test drove a few, and the tranny is not a given - beware. Thus far I've had to replace both half-shafts ($140, OEM junkyard parts), HVAC blower motor ($80), battery ($120), PS pump ($120 reman), PS reservoir ($35 junkyard), serpentine belt, complete PCV system ($300), radiator ($140), tranny flush (twice, once the right way), coolant flush, PS system flush (dude topped it with ATF), all filters, ignition coil ($60), spark plugs and almost every exterior light bulb.

All that was fine. What really killed me was the keys! Car came with a single valet key. I thought no problem, I'll just have a locksmith cut and program some new fobs. How naive :lol: Was living on borrowed time, then one day it happened, valet key also lost. Tow to dealer, 2 new fobs, custom cut keys and $700 later. :o Ouch! Keys are a dealer only item sadly. Since then I've learned how to manually bypass the shift interlock system in case I need to tow it again.

Still lots to repair...Timing belt looks new, but gonna replace in next few weeks anyways as insurance. Suspension bushings and ball joints starting to show their age. Mine is pre engine code 430014, and the PS reservoir was leaking at the seam so I replaced it with a reservoir from a 2007 430014+. have tweaked the PS suction hose to fit, need to update that to 30740267. Engine likes to eat oil. But she's a reliable trusty old gal, so I keep it going.

If you're not afraid to replace bits on an older car they can be a bargain. If you're paying a mechanic to do all this work I might look for something with lower miles.
2005 S60 2.4L (B5244S6), 175k miles

vtl
Posts: 4724
Joined: 16 August 2012
Year and Model: 2005 XC70
Location: Boston
Has thanked: 114 times
Been thanked: 604 times

Post by vtl »

F250 wrote:Good and bad. My daughter picked up a '07 S60 2.5T for $5200 with 165K miles on it just this past June (2016). The body, paint, and interior were near mint condition.

At this point, though, she has already put an ADDITIONAL $4400 in it, and all of that except the labor portion of a $400 front brake job was ONLY parts prices with me doing all the labor for her.
Was there expectation that you could buy a 10 years old car and just drive it? :)

I had replaced all of that, besides VVT hubs, about 8k in parts - not counting oil, ATF, tires, break pads, filters, etc, which are a maintenance items. Mine hubs are fine, I got the car at 79k miles and immediately switched to a better oil in sane intervals. That saved the hubs.

User avatar
F250
Posts: 126
Joined: 18 June 2016
Year and Model: 2007 S60 2.5T
Location: Alabama
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by F250 »

We have used only Volvo or reputably known upgraded parts (i.e. Meihle, etc.) based on recommendations from both here and Swedespeed members, so we're good on that front.

The techs I've spoken with mentioned that it is typically only the inner tie-rods which fail, but I went ahead and did both just to complete the setup.

The timing belt and water pump were done because the vehicle was at 165K miles and we could find absolutely no history to show that either had already been replaced. Upon digging into it, the timing belt looked really good, so it had probably already been replaced, but I put the new one on because it was in my hands and I was already "in there". Now, we KNOW the age of both components. I know the pump had not been replaced, so it was nearing the time for it anyway.

I suspect that oil changes had not been done properly (or in a timely manner) for the same reasons you mentioned. I know that the PCV system was original. Also, the oil drain ports in the engine block were in fact plugged in the vertical section which would have been neither seen nor cleaned out had I not dropped the pan. We did replace the entire PCV system with all the other non-suspension work.

The used turbo option is almost the same cost as a completely new CHRA cartridge, but brings with it an unknown history and condition, so we'll probably still go the cartridge route. It is in fact burning oil and weeping around the cartridge now, even after all the work, so we know it has to get done.

Yes... alternator, stater, and A/C components are additional items of potential concern. We'll just have to wait and see.

Your last comment about buying a car with all of these repairs already made... that's the primary reason my daughter wants to now keep it even though her investment is higher than the car's true value. She should be good for long enough to start and complete grad school and have a good vehicle throughout that time frame.
______________________________
Pete - '07 S60 2.5T, Gray FWD (Daughter's car)
My Garage includes '02 F250 7.3L Diesel w/285K, '03 Excursion 7.3L Diesel w/196K, '06 Outback Limited 2.5L w/228K, '99 4Runner 3.4L 2WD w/220K

User avatar
F250
Posts: 126
Joined: 18 June 2016
Year and Model: 2007 S60 2.5T
Location: Alabama
Been thanked: 1 time

Post by F250 »

vtl wrote:...
Was there expectation that you could buy a 10 years old car and just drive it? :)
...

No, not completely, but to a small degree, yes... for a while, anyway. We knew up front that the timing belt and water pump were going to get done right away due to the absence of any proof they had ever been addressed. The risk of the unknown was not worth it, and the parts costs were included in the purchase price we negotiated.

Over the past 10 years, I've purchased/sold 15 vehicles in the 10-15 year old age class, so I know what you typically get with that kind of purchase. Certain issues are givens, and most of what I mentioned were known potentials. Our surprise was how it all landed in a sudden heap at our feet based on the condition of the exterior and interior and generic cleanliness of the engine (not detailed, mind you, like the used car lots sometimes do... just no signs of a history of leaks. Again, I chose to do some of the work on a proactive basis to help my daughter minimize the potential stranded condition in Back Woods Nowhere. It was a private sale, a local car, and drove/rode/responded tight and spiffy with plenty of spunk.

Too, the list of repairs was not meant as a complaint, just factual experience. It was also the first of those 15 used vehicles which had ever hit us like it did because I work really hard at vehicle research and inspection prior to my purchases, and that diligence has paid off pretty well for us.
______________________________
Pete - '07 S60 2.5T, Gray FWD (Daughter's car)
My Garage includes '02 F250 7.3L Diesel w/285K, '03 Excursion 7.3L Diesel w/196K, '06 Outback Limited 2.5L w/228K, '99 4Runner 3.4L 2WD w/220K

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post