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98 V70 front end wobble

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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oragex
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Re: 98 V70 front end wobble

Post by oragex »

98v70dad wrote:When I took the car in the steering wheel was off of center by one or two splines (about 3 degrees- I measured it). I never bothered to fix it because it never bothered me. The steering wheel had been removed by me and wasn't put back on quite straight. When I got the car back after the two new front tires were installed the steering wheel was magically straight and the turning signal didn't shut off on its own any more. I know the guy didn't mess with the steering wheel because the car was up on the rack the whole time. So I'm wondering if his tweaking involved bending something or disconnecting the clamp at the steering wheel shaft/steering rack connection and not getting it properly tightened...just guessing. The wobble first showed up right after he worked on the car(drive home) so that's why I wonder about it.
When you put the steering wheel back in place, the rack was centered but the steering was off. So when guys at the garage do a front wheel alignment (geometry), they have to make sure the steering wheel stays centered when the wheels are centered. So they adjusted the tie rods to have the steering wheel centered which means now the rack is not more centered. At full lock, you should see the steering wheel is turned more on one side than the other one.

I'm throwing this here but it's just a 'last' option scenario. I had a front wheel and steering vibration from around 50mph and it was due to stuck piston rings which caused the engine to be unbalanced. Once the piston rings got free, the car was perfect smooth at that speed.

But as others say, if tires, make sure the wheels are balanced and wheel lugs are properly tightened and feel smooth while being tightened (they tend to 'grip' causing uneven torque across the lugs which deforms the brake disc.

Not sure if yours is manual, but I also once had a manual car, did a few 360 on a slippery highway. Ever since the steering wheel vibrated at 60mph, someone told me it may be a damaged gear where the axles engage.

98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

oragex wrote:
98v70dad wrote:When I took the car in the steering wheel was off of center by one or two splines (about 3 degrees- I measured it). I never bothered to fix it because it never bothered me. The steering wheel had been removed by me and wasn't put back on quite straight. When I got the car back after the two new front tires were installed the steering wheel was magically straight and the turning signal didn't shut off on its own any more. I know the guy didn't mess with the steering wheel because the car was up on the rack the whole time. So I'm wondering if his tweaking involved bending something or disconnecting the clamp at the steering wheel shaft/steering rack connection and not getting it properly tightened...just guessing. The wobble first showed up right after he worked on the car(drive home) so that's why I wonder about it.
When you put the steering wheel back in place, the rack was centered but the steering was off. So when guys at the garage do a front wheel alignment (geometry), they have to make sure the steering wheel stays centered when the wheels are centered. So they adjusted the tie rods to have the steering wheel centered which means now the rack is not more centered. At full lock, you should see the steering wheel is turned more on one side than the other one.

I'm throwing this here but it's just a 'last' option scenario. I had a front wheel and steering vibration from around 50mph and it was due to stuck piston rings which caused the engine to be unbalanced. Once the piston rings got free, the car was perfect smooth at that speed.

But as others say, if tires, make sure the wheels are balanced and wheel lugs are properly tightened and feel smooth while being tightened (they tend to 'grip' causing uneven torque across the lugs which deforms the brake disc.

Not sure if yours is manual, but I also once had a manual car, did a few 360 on a slippery highway. Ever since the steering wheel vibrated at 60mph, someone told me it may be a damaged gear where the axles engage.
How would I get piston rings unstuck? I have buzzy vibration problems from the front that I haven't been able to figure out either.

I torque my own lug nuts. After the car has been serviced at the tire shop I loosen the lugs and hand tighten them with a torque wrench. When I got new wheels and tires 6 months ago I cleaned up all the lug bolts with a stainless steel brush and then put a tiny dab of antiseize on them. I know that anti seize is not necessarily recommended on lug bolts but I've been doing it for years and have never had a lug come loose. I torque the lug bolts to 100 ft lbs. I believe that the spec is a little less than that.

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Post by rspi »

Only if they last 100,000 miles.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

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Post by rspi »

98v70dad wrote:
rspi wrote:There is suppose to be space at the top of that strut tower.

What speeds do you feel this? How old are the struts?

When I took the car in the steering wheel was off of center by one or two splines (about 3 degrees- I measured it). I never bothered to fix it because it never bothered me. The steering wheel had been removed by me and wasn't put back on quite straight. When I got the car back after the two new front tires were installed the steering wheel was magically straight and the turning signal didn't shut off on its own any more. I know the guy didn't mess with the steering wheel because the car was up on the rack the whole time. So I'm wondering if his tweaking involved bending something or disconnecting the clamp at the steering wheel shaft/steering rack connection and not getting it properly tightened...just guessing. The wobble first showed up right after he worked on the car(drive home) so that's why I wonder about it.
If the steering wheel was installed off, and they alignment shop adjusted for the steering wheel not being straight, it will throw the turn signal triper off.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

98v70dad wrote: When I took the car in the steering wheel was off of center by one or two splines (about 3 degrees- I measured it). I never bothered to fix it because it never bothered me. The steering wheel had been removed by me and wasn't put back on quite straight. When I got the car back after the two new front tires were installed the steering wheel was magically straight and the turning signal didn't shut off on its own any more. I know the guy didn't mess with the steering wheel because the car was up on the rack the whole time...
Yikes! It is very common for a shop to also align the steering wheel after aligning the wheels. Well, if the steering wheel is "off" it's splines this will cause a problem with the turn signal tripper.

The tripper for the turn signals are inside the neck of the steering column. So, my guess is that it still works, however, you'd have to turn the wheel the 3 teeth off to get it to work. So, to get that back where it needs to be, you'll need to figure out how to get the steering wheel straight by getting it centered while tripping the signals off, then pull the wheel and reset it on the shaft. Then take it back to the alignment shop for them to re-align the wheel.

It's always best to mark the wheel and shaft before you pull it so it goes back on straight. :?
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

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Post by j-dawg »

You can probably just spin the tie rods in/out correspondingly on each side of the car without losing your alignment, so long as you are careful about turning the threads the same amount.
1999 V70 T5 5-SPD | ~277k mi | sold

98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

rspi wrote:
98v70dad wrote: When I took the car in the steering wheel was off of center by one or two splines (about 3 degrees- I measured it). I never bothered to fix it because it never bothered me. The steering wheel had been removed by me and wasn't put back on quite straight. When I got the car back after the two new front tires were installed the steering wheel was magically straight and the turning signal didn't shut off on its own any more. I know the guy didn't mess with the steering wheel because the car was up on the rack the whole time...
Yikes! It is very common for a shop to also align the steering wheel after aligning the wheels. Well, if the steering wheel is "off" it's splines this will cause a problem with the turn signal tripper.

The tripper for the turn signals are inside the neck of the steering column. So, my guess is that it still works, however, you'd have to turn the wheel the 3 teeth off to get it to work. So, to get that back where it needs to be, you'll need to figure out how to get the steering wheel straight by getting it centered while tripping the signals off, then pull the wheel and reset it on the shaft. Then take it back to the alignment shop for them to re-align the wheel.

It's always best to mark the wheel and shaft before you pull it so it goes back on straight. :?
I did mark the wheel with a sharpie. The mark was two teeth wide and I didn't notice until I went to put it back on. I'm only off by about one spline tooth which is about 3 degrees - enough to cause the problem. The signal still works fine but you have to overcompensate to get it to click off - very very annoying. Anyhow - the wobble is my problem, the turning signal is a minor thing that I can live with for now.

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Post by 98v70dad »

rspi wrote:Only if they last 100,000 miles.
I haven't unboxed the bearings yet, but this is what I read about them here. Timken has always been the highest quality.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=76342&p=429846&hilit=timken#p429846

CN90 gave me a tip in another thread that they were on closeout at Rock Auto for about half price. The normal price was about the same as a FAG bearing. I agree that if something doesn't last its not worth a low price

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Post by rspi »

I'm about to replace two on my sedan. Got them from Swedish car parts. I installed a FAG on my wagon, which is suppose to be OEM. Timken is suppose to be good as well.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
--------------------
Volvo's of past: '87 740 GLE, '79 262C Bertone, '78 264, 960's, '98 S70 GLT, '95 850 T-5R YellowVolvo Repair Videos

98v70dad
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Post by 98v70dad »

rspi wrote:I'm about to replace two on my sedan. Got them from Swedish car parts. I installed a FAG on my wagon, which is suppose to be OEM. Timken is suppose to be good as well.
I unpacked these just a few minutes ago. The bearing at the core of the Timken part has FAG stamped on it. Of course, the rest of the part has no markings but it appears that the Timkens are just FAG parts in a Timken box. I guess I'll find out how long it goes long term, but in the short term I saved over $100. I feel pretty confident with the purchase.

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