Looks like you have a lot of work to do...
No idea what the extra tanks are about - Water injection, maybe?
And the food grade plastic hose sure isn't stock. You usually see
that clear hose with the nylon reinforcement webbing in soda
and beverage dispensing systems. It's certainly unique!
I wonder if they're running some kind of oil catch can?
The wire off of the positive clamp looks like it has a circuit breaker
can connected to it. I agree with ditching it. Between that B+ lead and
the relay on the fender wall, someone may have had a set of driving
lights installed. Ne telling with out chasing down where the green and
black wires go.
Don't sweat the "cut off" rubber lines - Those are vent tubes.
And the factory alarm horn on the firewall? It's missing parts.
Might as well remove it, because it's not gonna work like that.
First thing that I would do is get out the pressure washer
and blast a few layers of debris out of that engine bay.
New to me V70, couple questions... Topic is solved
- BEJinFbk
- Posts: 4067
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And your key situation?
Sounds like the PO may have already changed
either the ignition cylinder or the door lock cylinder.
They SHOULD match. The higher failure rate item is
the ignition cylinder. You can get a factory match to
allow the same key for the ignition and the door, but
it'll cost a few bucks...
Got a functional key fob?
Sounds like the PO may have already changed
either the ignition cylinder or the door lock cylinder.
They SHOULD match. The higher failure rate item is
the ignition cylinder. You can get a factory match to
allow the same key for the ignition and the door, but
it'll cost a few bucks...
Got a functional key fob?
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... 
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Klausc
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You are going to have fun with this project. Both of those liquid bottles are not Volvo things. Nor are the two garden hoses or the relay(?) screwed on to the fender. You need to follow the hoses and electrical lines and make a determination as to what they do. My guess is that you will be throwing quite a few things away.
Klaus
If I had a larger garage, I could have more Volvos.
If I had a larger garage, I could have more Volvos.
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Teddy1975
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It's a nice looking car with a lot of uh, additions.
I noticed one thing that's fairly stock in your pictures, there's a lot of oil on the cam cover where the spark plugs are. It's likely in a serious need of a PCV cleaning and/or changing. Unless you've fallen head over heels in love with the red lady already, you may want to consider how much money you want to spend to get her running again. With the amount of things already discovered to be done, it might be an idea to buy a donor car you can transfer the parts over from.
I noticed one thing that's fairly stock in your pictures, there's a lot of oil on the cam cover where the spark plugs are. It's likely in a serious need of a PCV cleaning and/or changing. Unless you've fallen head over heels in love with the red lady already, you may want to consider how much money you want to spend to get her running again. With the amount of things already discovered to be done, it might be an idea to buy a donor car you can transfer the parts over from.
Current: V50 2.0D, 2007, 6 speed manual
Previous: 850 2.0L N/A, 4 door 1996 manual, 740 2.3L N/A, 5 door 1992 manual, and S70 2.5T 1999 manual
Previous: 850 2.0L N/A, 4 door 1996 manual, 740 2.3L N/A, 5 door 1992 manual, and S70 2.5T 1999 manual
Appreciate the input, i think i just discovered that it is indeed in need of pcv servicing!Teddy1975 wrote:It's a nice looking car with a lot of uh, additions.
I noticed one thing that's fairly stock in your pictures, there's a lot of oil on the cam cover where the spark plugs are. It's likely in a serious need of a PCV cleaning and/or changing. Unless you've fallen head over heels in love with the red lady already, you may want to consider how much money you want to spend to get her running again. With the amount of things already discovered to be done, it might be an idea to buy a donor car you can transfer the parts over from.
Why do you think i would need a donor car? New engine? PCV expensive fix? I really like the car and i didnt pay much for it, it isnt my daily so thats ok.
He is why i think it needs serious pcv service.
I was cranking the car over with the recharged battery (11.68 volts) and it wouldn't stay running. I added some fuel and checked the distributor/rotor and it was filthy! Oil and gunk build up. I cleaned it with brake cleaner and put it back together and started to crank the car and it was struggling more than usual and after a few cranks it POOFED! White smoke smelling like oil and electrics appeared and i stopped immediately. I noticed oil pushed out of the oil cap and smoke was coming out of the engine when i removed the oil cap.
I thought i put the distributor on wrong, so i removed it again and it had some oil in it again...
Any ideas?
Also i removed these quality pieces from the cars previous owner.(looks like coolant/water cooler tank?) Also noticed they removed the driveshaft while i was underneath there. (i remember seeing a driveshaft near the car when i bought it but didn't put the two together)
Any ideas?
Also i removed these quality pieces from the cars previous owner.(looks like coolant/water cooler tank?) Also noticed they removed the driveshaft while i was underneath there. (i remember seeing a driveshaft near the car when i bought it but didn't put the two together)
- erikv11
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The oil in the cap is due to a blown rear cam seal. Presumably clogged PCV is blowing the seal(s). You need to remove the little plate under the rotor, to push the seal back in. Note the orientation of the plate, for reinstall purposes. Longer term you should get new rear cam seals, just get them both (for both cams), be sure to buy Corteco. In the meantime leave the oil cap off/cocked when starting so the clogged PCV doesn't blow any more seals.
Edit: also, be sure to plug any now-open holes after removing the spare plumbing parts, e.g. that one in the turbo charge pipe leading to the intercooler.
Edit: also, be sure to plug any now-open holes after removing the spare plumbing parts, e.g. that one in the turbo charge pipe leading to the intercooler.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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Teddy1975
- Posts: 257
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I suggested getting a donor car because it might be cheaper than buying all the parts you apparently need. I'm all for rescuing as many of the P80s as possible, but it can get quite expensive right quick.
I hope you'll let us see more of the progress as you get it back to being driveable
I hope you'll let us see more of the progress as you get it back to being driveable
Current: V50 2.0D, 2007, 6 speed manual
Previous: 850 2.0L N/A, 4 door 1996 manual, 740 2.3L N/A, 5 door 1992 manual, and S70 2.5T 1999 manual
Previous: 850 2.0L N/A, 4 door 1996 manual, 740 2.3L N/A, 5 door 1992 manual, and S70 2.5T 1999 manual
- 850 LPT
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Beats the screaming kittens in my XC
I haven't seen a P80 wagon with a factory hitch since we bought our 99'XC brand new. That is certainly a rare accessory.
Hopefully you will figure this thing out, but I would reconsider if the rear main is indeed blown. As was said already, the intricate hose and canister set up was probably used to relieve pressure from the PCV. Not a good sign, PO didn't know what was going on.
Maybe those extra cables from the battery were used to power aux. lights. Certainly something you will want to get rid of. Dangerous stuff.
98' S70, base, 5-speed manual, pewter/ tan, 145k miles
99' S70, base, 5-speed manual, nautic blue/ tan, 225k miles, currently inop
06' V70, auto, willow green/ charcoal, 147k miles
79' Ford Capri S, Euro Spec 2.8 V6, T9 5-speed manual, owned since 1986
58' Porsche Diesel Junior
13' Honda Odyssey
84' Mercedes 300 D, gold/ tan, 420k miles (retirement project
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99' S70, base, 5-speed manual, nautic blue/ tan, 225k miles, currently inop
06' V70, auto, willow green/ charcoal, 147k miles
79' Ford Capri S, Euro Spec 2.8 V6, T9 5-speed manual, owned since 1986
58' Porsche Diesel Junior
13' Honda Odyssey
84' Mercedes 300 D, gold/ tan, 420k miles (retirement project
You were right it was the rear cam seals, both were leaking and pushed out but the one under the rotor was actally pushed off and just hanging there(forgot to take pics). I just got done removing the pcv system and while there was some gunk and deposits nothing was clogged? Also the pipes were so brittle as soon as i lifted them there broke into pieces.erikv11 wrote: ↑26 Mar 2017, 13:11 The oil in the cap is due to a blown rear cam seal. Presumably clogged PCV is blowing the seal(s). You need to remove the little plate under the rotor, to push the seal back in. Note the orientation of the plate, for reinstall purposes. Longer term you should get new rear cam seals, just get them both (for both cams), be sure to buy Corteco. In the meantime leave the oil cap off/cocked when starting so the clogged PCV doesn't blow any more seals.
Edit: also, be sure to plug any now-open holes after removing the spare plumbing parts, e.g. that one in the turbo charge pipe leading to the intercooler.
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