Preventative/regualr maintenance for S60 T5 w/Auto

[Georgeandkira]

During this talk of coils, boots, belts and water pumps the dread trannie drain & fill fell through the cracks.

It's been discussed here and on other boards 1,000 times.
If you raise the car on ramps and get the left side a bit higher you'll get closer to 4 quarts to drain.
Graduate an old windshield washer jug to measure what came out etc., etc.
* Many people seem to have needed practice finding and reading the small trannie dipstick.
If you're unable to get a sharp reading then you're one of them. Hot (operating temperature) fluid runs thinner and is less likely to drag up the tube.

Besides "catchware" and ramps all you need is a 24mm wrench and an 18mm aluminum gasket.
PM me and I'll mail you a gasket. The last time I saw an Amazon pop-up ad 10 packs were available for ~$5.80.
The Toyota Type-IV fluid (aka T-IV) will work fine.

I believe the happily clogged up transmission becoming an internally leaky mess due to the cleansing power of refreshed fluid is a thing of the past.

You can easily find yourself doing 3 drain & fills with that case you bought if the fluid is filthy enough.
Do report just how dirty the old stuff is.

[vtl]

If you decide to drain&fill, two things to remember:

1. Fresh fluid, even ~3 liters you get from the sump, will wash some dirt out, so please install Magnefine filter in return line before doing the d&f. I know there's a shortage of genuine Magnefine 3/8" right now (don't buy Raybestos and other Chinese cr.p), but still possible to source one.

2. Mobil 3309 is not the same fluid as Volvo 1161540/1161640. It has a cheap group II base oil vs group III in OE ATF, and a different set of additives. I ran two AW55 transmission through about 150 liters of different ATFs, replaced valve bodies in both of them and can tell for sure I'm not going to put anything other than Volvo ATF in my transmission. For simple drain&fill you need just one 4l jug, which won't rob you. Closest in feeling aftermarket ATF is Idemitsu Type-TLS, but why cheap out?

[twilson380]

1.5 quarts of oil per 3k cannot be normal.....

Yeah, I know this can't be normal, I've done a compression test and seen that the compression across all cyl is in spec and the same, so my assumption is that it's coming from the turbo, I haven't had an opportunity to look further into it yet.

I have always changed oil at 3k with full synthetic oil starting with the first new car I bought in 1986. Never have I had a pcv clog in any of the six white engines which includes the 2004 I still drive daily.

I would have loved to had this vehicle since new, but my wife got it second hand and the previous owner didn't keep up with PM's very well it seems.

When I had the belt changed on my 2004 I also opted to change the water pump along with all the rest of the components the belt touches and the thermostat and housing was part of the service.

That's what I was thinking as well, just go back with all genuine volvo parts.

Thanks for your input June! Much appreciated!!

I've had about 5 coils fail on 4 different cars but I always drive very high mileage cars.
......
Yet I have service customers whose coils just NEVER fail.....go figure.

Yeah, so far there was only the one, but I'm sure there are more to come!
Thanks, I may move this PM up on my list as well.

I did 5000 mile changes on the P80, went to 7500 with synthetic and my PCV was about 10% clogged at 160k miles

Synthetic at 3000 is a lot of oil changes, do you save the old oil by any chance? Where do you live?

5k - 7.5k is where I change my Cobalt SS Turbo at and it doesn't use any oil at all. The PCV System on my S60 was completely clogged! I think the previous owner ran non synthetic motor oil.

I'm sure you don't want this oil lol, well, I guess it depends on what your doing with it, however it's pretty, uh, burnt smelling usually lol . I live around Central Texas if you really want it haha.

I see most of your Volvos were P1. Was your mechanic talking about the water pump on P1 or on P2? Because the wp on P2 is almost never replaced with the first belt, even by most main Volvo dealers. This is important because all wp failures on P2 I've come across in the past 4 years on forums were aftermarket replacement units: people had replaced the original Volvo wp that could have gone until the second belt, with an aftermarket pump that failed within 30000 miles. To this day I haven't read yet about an original water pump on a 2001-2009 to fail.

Really? I'll have to do some more research on this!! So you're saying even if WP is replaced with a genuine volvo part there is the potential for it to fail not long after?

On 2001-2009 what 'usually' fails is the timing belt cracks and snaps when the owners neglected the replacement interval.

As mentioned before, moving this pm up to #1 todo as soon as I get back from my trip next week. Thanks!

During this talk of coils, boots, belts and water pumps the dread trannie drain & fill fell through the cracks.
....
* Many people seem to have needed practice finding and reading the small trannie dipstick.

Thanks for bringing this back up! It did take me about 30min to find the transmission dipstick on this car when I first looked for it (Hidden under the airbox where the cylindrical air filter is housed), sort of a pain in the as to get to.

Besides "catchware" and ramps all you need is a 24mm wrench and an 18mm aluminum gasket.
PM me and I'll mail you a gasket.

Thanks, that would be great!!

I believe the happily clogged up transmission becoming an internally leaky mess due to the cleansing power of refreshed fluid is a thing of the past. You can easily find yourself doing 3 drain & fills with that case you bought if the fluid is filthy enough.
Do report just how dirty the old stuff is.

That's great to hear, will definitely do that!

1. Fresh fluid, even ~3 liters you get from the sump, will wash some dirt out, so please install Magnefine filter in return line before doing the d&f. I know there's a shortage of genuine Magnefine 3/8" right now (don't buy Raybestos and other Chinese cr.p), but still possible to source one.

Good idea, I'll see if I can find one to put inline!

2. Mobil 3309 is not the same fluid as Volvo 1161540/1161640. It has a cheap group II base oil vs group III in OE ATF, and a different set of additives. I ran two AW55 transmission through about 150 liters of different ATFs, replaced valve bodies in both of them and can tell for sure I'm not going to put anything other than Volvo ATF in my transmission. For simple drain&fill you need just one 4l jug, which won't rob you. Closest in feeling aftermarket ATF is Idemitsu Type-TLS, but why cheap out?

Interesting, I figured that it would be relatively the same. So, Volvo vs the Toyota branded fuild is that much different?

but why cheap out?

You make a good point, if I hadn't already bought the fluid a few months ago, then I would have probably saved up the money and bought a different brand.

[abscate]

abscate wrote: ↑Today, 04:20
I did 5000 mile changes on the P80, went to 7500 with synthetic and my PCV was about 10% clogged at 160k miles

Synthetic at 3000 is a lot of oil changes, do you save the old oil by any chance? Where do you live?
5k - 7.5k is where I change my Cobalt SS Turbo at and it doesn't use any oil at all. The PCV System on my S60 was completely clogged! I think the previous owner ran non synthetic motor oil.

I'm sure you don't want this oil lol, well, I guess it depends on what your doing with it, however it's pretty, uh, burnt smelling usually lol . I live around Central Texas if you really want it haha.

A slight private joke here on MVS. if you search for "am I really a cheapskate" in the P80 Forum it covers it, if you are in for a light hearted read... (june - don't click on that link ,please)

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75054&hilit=cheapskate

[twilson380]

A slight private joke here on MVS. if you search for "am I really a cheapskate" in the P80 Forum it covers it, if you are in for a light hearted read... (june - don't click on that link ,please)

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=75054&hilit=cheapskate

HAHA! That's great! I thought my buddy was a cheapskate since he brought home Aviation Oil from work to put in his 74 F100 that had barely been used.

[Georgeandkira]

My first V70 was hastened to sale by an "aviation cheapskate". The owner had his hangar buddies change his fluids.
The red trannie fluid they loaded the P/S system with made it growl horribly. I flushed out the red and replaced with Pentosin CHF-11S (original pale green synthetic) and got 40K more out of it. One day on the highway it announced its destruction with a 30 second crescendo of rumbling. $40 later at a junkyard and I left with a P/S pump one year older than mine and it was dripping pale green fluid. Quiet it was.

The list of fluids I've used successfully in 6 AW55-50 trannies is:
Mobil 3309
Toyota Type-IV
Wolf's Head Super Universal Synthetic Transmission Fluid
Valvoline MaxLife Dex/Merc LV The "LV" is key.

I also add LubeGard (red bottle) at the recommended dosage of 1 oz./qt. system capacity.

[June]

I was told by my mechanic at Volvo that the timing belt itself that Volvo uses on these cars is not what usually fails, but the water pump, or any of the other components the belt runs on/around actually eventually fail causing the belt to jump before the belt itself actually breaks. Of course damaging the engine.

When I had the belt changed on my 2004 I also opted to change the water pump along with all the rest of the components the belt touches and the thermostat and housing was part of the service.

June

I see most of your Volvos were P1. Was your mechanic talking about the water pump on P1 or on P2? Because the wp on P2 is almost never replaced with the first belt, even by most main Volvo dealers. This is important because all wp failures on P2 I've come across in the past 4 years on forums were aftermarket replacement units: people had replaced the original Volvo wp that could have gone until the second belt, with an aftermarket pump that failed within 30000 miles. To this day I haven't read yet about an original water pump on a 2001-2009 to fail. On 2001-2009 what 'usually' fails is the timing belt cracks and snaps when the owners neglected the replacement interval.

My mechanic is one of my dealer's master technicians. He said the factory volvo belts almost never fail by itself ie crackand snap as you have seen, but one of the wheels fails throwing the belt or actually locks up causing the belt to destruct.

My 2004 S80 T6 is a P2 car isn't it? The 850 and V70 were P80, not sure what the 740, 960, and S90 platform was called. At any rate other than the 740, all the cars had the white engines in them and are they not basically the same engines no matter what platform the car happens to be?

This is the only car I have ever kept beyond factory warranty. So it is the only car that hit the miles to require the belt replacement. My mechanic at my Volvo dealer did the work. Yes the water pump is scheduled to be replaced every other belt change on the 2004 year model. The belt interval is 10 years or 110k which ever comes first.

In my case I had it replaced March of 2016 at 109k and my delivery date was 12/25/2003. Not hard to forget as it was a Christmas present. To my thinking it would have been stupid to leave a 12 year old water pump and thermostat in place. It was only $500 more to replace everything. Now what would the cost be to replace the engine if a few years or say 50k later the factory water pump fails causing the replaced belt to destruct resulting in engine damage? It seems to me replacing it was cheap insurance.

I rather enjoy the power and do run the car hard, therefore 3000 miles is it on oil changes as well as the hot climate here in Florida. No I do not save the oil, I assume the dealership properly handles it. June

[nickbw898]

That's all true but there is another component on the shedual for change at the same time/miles interval and I have found many don't know about it. It's the alternator pully (AOC) which has a ratchet like mechanisum for preventing over-run. This is somewhat difficult to replace in situe (but doable with the right size tools and smallish hands) it also adds another £50 to the parts list. If the bearing etc goes out it will take ot the cam belt in all likelyhood.

[Rattnalle]

That's all true but there is another component on the shedual for change at the same time/miles interval and I have found many don't know about it. It's the alternator pully (AOC) which has a ratchet like mechanisum for preventing over-run. This is somewhat difficult to replace in situe (but doable with the right size tools and smallish hands) it also adds another £50 to the parts list. If the bearing etc goes out it will take ot the cam belt in all likelyhood.

It doesn't have an interval but it can go bad like the other pulleys of course. What usually happens is that the free wheel stops working so that the belt start skipping because the alternator is working against it part of the time. Wears the belt out.

Same goes for the AC freewheel bearing. Doesn't have an interval but can go bad (mine is on the way and I'm about to replace it as soon as the weather is more favourable). The AC will be constantly on if the bearing is stuck.

Neither of these two failures, while both very inconvenient, destroy the engine itself as long as the timing belt cover is intact so that a broken accessory belt can't reach it. Newer P3 models have a different cover and the accessory belt can ruin the timing belt if it snaps.

[abscate]

Just thought I would update this

abscate wrote: ↑28 Jul 2017, 04:20
I did 5000 mile changes on the P80, went to 7500 with synthetic and my PCV was about 10% clogged at 160k miles

Synthetic at 3000 is a lot of oil changes, do you save the old oil by any chance? Where do you live?
5k - 7.5k is where I change my Cobalt SS Turbo at and it doesn't use any oil at all. The PCV System on my S60 was completely clogged! I think the previous owner ran non synthetic motor oil.

I'm sure you don't want this oil lol, well, I guess it depends on what your doing with it, however it's pretty, uh, burnt smelling usually lol . I live around Central Texas if you really want it haha.

I dropped in to get all that free black gold and it turned out some Scottish guy from Canada beat me to it. Noooooooooo.