Battery terminal thread size?

[abscate]

You can double nut it and put the connector in between the nuts to get good contact. Two zip ties will strain relief the wire by attaching it to the positive battery terminal firmly

[MrAl]

Once you install your wires, I'd suggest using either a lock washer or a second nut (jamb nut) in order to make sure you don't run into the issues I had.

In order to use a nut as a jamb nut you basically hold onto the first nut (already installed) with a wrench while tightening the 2nd/newest nut towards it. This allows torque between them and makes it just short of impossible for them to both back out on their own.

Or, you can always use blue or green lock-tite. It'll do the same job.

Hi again,

Oh yes ok, good idea. One one stud i have room for two nuts but the other there is only room for one nut and a flat and lock washer because there is something else connected to it, i guess it is the alternator wire. The negative terminal has plenty of room though for two nuts and lock and flats. I also have some locking fluid similar to Lock Tite so i'll throw some on once everything is up and working properly.

Funny i had to hunt for my Lock-tite (a good half hour) as i misplaced it


Thanks for the suggestions.

[MrAl]

You can double nut it and put the connector in between the nuts to get good contact. Two zip ties will strain relief the wire by attaching it to the positive battery terminal firmly

Hi again,

Ok sure. On the positive terminal i only have room left for one nut though as there is another wire connected already maybe it is the alternator wire.
I'll try the zip ties too, have some quality ties in 'stock'. I suppose they will also be used to keep the wire run stable along the whole length.

[wizechatmgr]

That other wire more likely than not is going into a loom or plastic conduit and then into the fuse box - the "main" wire coming off the top post goes to starter solenoid and then piggy-backed to the alternator from there.

If you don't have the little plastic battery hold-down clamp at the front bottom left of the battery tray I'd suggest getting one. I'm relatively sure this is how the nut on my cable backed out - due to the battery making small movements in turns over time. If you already have one then you shouldn't have issues.

[MrAl]

That other wire more likely than not is going into a loom or plastic conduit and then into the fuse box - the "main" wire coming off the top post goes to starter solenoid and then piggy-backed to the alternator from there.

If you don't have the little plastic battery hold-down clamp at the front bottom left of the battery tray I'd suggest getting one. I'm relatively sure this is how the nut on my cable backed out - due to the battery making small movements in turns over time. If you already have one then you shouldn't have issues.

Hi,

Oh ok i didnt know about that. I'll check it and see if it's there. I do plan to use a lock nut and Lock-Tite on that nut and the other one too.

[wizechatmgr]

Using both is over-kill. You can, but you don't need both...

[erikv11]

This thread is surreal.

[abscate]

Its about thread size, after all.

If you are a belt and suspenders type, you can use a Lock Nut and Loctite...

Im just feeling Volvo love because I dropped my trans today, without major Charlie Foxtrot. Came close though.

[wizechatmgr]

Sounded like you almost "really" dropped it... Thankfully you didn't, otherwise I'd have had to re-appropriate your Volvo collection, and then remove you from underneath the transmission. Priorities... =)

[MrAl]

Hi again,

Sorry, i meant to say i plan to use a lock washer and hex nut, and Lock-Tite. I wrote "lock nut" by mistake.

Could not find the access point through the firewall yet though.