Login Register

Wierd issue with the door lock actuator

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

Post Reply
User avatar
BEJinFbk
Posts: 4067
Joined: 5 January 2008
Year and Model: '98 V70 R
Location: Fairbanks, Alaska
Has thanked: 93 times
Been thanked: 146 times

Re: Wierd issue with the door lock actuator

Post by BEJinFbk »

dsno wrote: 15 Oct 2017, 01:56
cn90 wrote: 14 Oct 2017, 22:30 Search forum for "resistor", most people remove it and replace with a piece of copper wire.
Better yet, live with the problem, I have had this problem for years, I simply use the key: turn it once for one door (driver's door) vs turn it twice (for all doors).
and when the lock freezes and you are unable to use the key?
There are a number of lock de-icing products available.
Keep them handy for frozen locks.

I use a moisture displacing lubricant called TriFlow that
works very well here in Fairbanks, but it's not terribly
humid here, and I park in a heated garage.
Your results may vary.
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

dsno
Posts: 33
Joined: 12 September 2017
Year and Model: 1999 V70
Location: Norway
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by dsno »

BEJinFbk wrote: 15 Oct 2017, 11:48
dsno wrote: 15 Oct 2017, 01:55
BEJinFbk wrote: 15 Oct 2017, 00:34


It's connected with a steel linkage rod.
yes, but its driven via the same electrical motor? isnt it?
I'm not sure what you mean. It's not driven by anything.
The key cylinder is connected to the door latch mechanism
by a steel rod. It will lock and unlock the door whether there
is power or not - It's mechanical.

The motor IS part of the latch mechanism, along with several switches,
but has nothing to do with locking or unlocking the door with a key.

The driver's door latch has a three postion switch switch for the key cylinder,
center is open, left is unlock/disarm, right is lock/arm. The left turn unlock has
two responses. The first left turn mechanically unlocks the driver's door and
disarms the alrm system. An immediate second left turn unlocks all other doors.

There are also switches in the latch mechanism in all tne doors that detect if the
door is latched or unlatched and yet another set of contacts that activate each of
the red safety lights in each door.

Hope that helps.

i think you may misunderstand what i mean here. that could possibly be beause i'm terrible at explaining things. and when its not even in my own language, things get even worse.

i cannot operate the door handle if i use the keyfob. its like its locked. but when i use the key. the handle operates just fine, and opens the door just fine.

i can open the door from the inside when i use the fob. just not from the outside :) all seems well electrically. the motor sounds strong, and the inside pin shoots up as it should.

and that "once to open driver dor, twice to open the rest" does not work. its only open or locked.

i might just aswell just blow the $350ish dollars on a new actuator mechanism. . i've tried countless remedies to aid in the thawing of the key when its -30c. and nothing has helped me much yet :)

scot850
Posts: 14870
Joined: 5 April 2010
Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Has thanked: 1836 times
Been thanked: 1709 times

Post by scot850 »

Just throwing this out there dsno. You may have already tried this for the door lock, but if not, have you removed the lock tumbler and given it a good clean and then try a lithium or silicon grease on the tumbler and the sleeve it fits into. This should keep the moisture out in winter.

The other issue with the actuator does sound like the actuator is failing. If someone grabbed the door handle while it is in the process of un-locking it can break a piece of plastic internally that actuates the rod to the outer door handle. The door will open from inside but not the outside. Can you buy a good used one say of E-bay or whatever the equivalent is where you live in Norway. I know there are used parts suppliers in Norway and Sweden as I have looked on websites there in the past.

It may be worth removing both inner door panels and watching the mechanism on left and right front doors to see what the difference in actuation is when using the fob.

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

cn90
Posts: 8251
Joined: 31 March 2010
Year and Model: 2004 V70 2.5T
Location: Omaha NE
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 466 times

Post by cn90 »

1+,

Get a new actuator from Volvo.
In the US, a new actuator costs about US $160 or so.
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

dsno
Posts: 33
Joined: 12 September 2017
Year and Model: 1999 V70
Location: Norway
Has thanked: 1 time

Post by dsno »

most "used" parts of this kind is worn out i'm afraid.

i've seen that ipd sells the actuator assembly for 185+shipping.

for me that would be 185+shipping (50bucks?), then 25% "norwegian VAT", and another $20 in VAT fee for the shipping company..

if i was to buy this part directly from volvo in norway you can expect a triple on the ipd price.. :/ (norway is an extremly pricey country)


so i'm kinda stuck here... should i spend the money.. buy a new actuator from ipd. and accept the additional shipping+vat+import fee and be done with it. or perhaps go to a salvage yard and spend $100 on a part that might not work? with no return policy?

hmm...

i'd really like the keyfob to work. seems so easy...

i dunno..

one of the issues is the value of the car. its not worth anything. as its an old car.. max $2000 if i was to sell it..
however. i got this car basically for free. as it was my uncly who previously owned the car... and as a "daily" driver its worth the world to me. not quite ready to spend $100 000 on a car (which won't get you far in norway. a higly speced KIA at max)

scot850
Posts: 14870
Joined: 5 April 2010
Year and Model: 2000 V70 R
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Has thanked: 1836 times
Been thanked: 1709 times

Post by scot850 »

Have you looked at buying the parts from maybe Germany? Probably more expensive that US. If you buy from FCP Euro (they are on East Coast US) they at least have a lifetime warranty on all their parts.

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... front-left

$175 from them. Their shipping is usually not too bad and quick to me in Canada.

http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/bo ... lock/1188/

This is 240 Euro from Scandix in Germany. Do you still have to pay all the taxes when buying in Europe?

Neil.
2006 V70 2.5T AWD Polestar tune
2000 V70 R - still being an endless PITA
2006 XC70 - Our son now has this and still parked in our garage
2003 Toyota 4Runner V8 Limited
2015 Kia Sportage EX-L - Sold
1993 850 GLT -Sold
1998 V70 XC - Sold
1997 Volvo 850 SE NA - Went to niece in California - Sold
2000 V70 SE NA - Sold

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post