1998 V70 Rear Door Spring/Shock 9485548

[TWC]

Hi,

Ok it doesnt sound too hard to do, but it does sound tricky. Pulling panels off, getting the thing to fit, getting the panels back on properly. Maybe i'll just go with the broomstick idea

Make it a Nimbus 2000 or a Firebolt.

Now, where is the best place to put a stick to hold up the door. It cant slip or it could hurt pretty bad or even break the window, which would cost a lot more than two new spring/shock/lift things.

I had propped a roof batten measured to size between the inner door handle and the floor. As long as you don't perform a roundhouse kick on it, the batten should do the job.

I also see lift shock prices ranging from about 11 dollars (USD) each to about 20 dollars each, even 25 dollars each.

Once again, heed my advice and steer clear of the no-name clones unless you are of the curious kind like me who doesn't mind wasting time and money.

Here's a link to a PDF of Stabilus with contact informations: http://www.stabilus.com/fileadmin/downl ... _EN_03.pdf

I also cant help but wonder if we could just stick something in the hole when the door is open, where the curved part enters the body. Looks like a dowel or something might jam up the mechanism and keep the door open. That would take maybe a 6 inch dowel, possibly with the body of the dowel partly whittled down into a long 'cone' shape. Sort of like how a house door wedge keeps a door open.
Any ideas on this?

You might risk damaging some parts of the door or the body - remember, that door is heavy, and applying direct pressure to this area doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

[wizechatmgr]

Removing the plastic without breaking it and then putting it back on is the hard part. Would suggest a pry bar to get old cylinders off and on. Be mindful where you place it so you don't break the glass on the side or rear.

Did mine at the beginning of this winter. Took about 20 minutes with the wife holding the door up. It is rather heavy with them removed.

[MrAl]

I put my broomstick into the glass in the corner and then prop it on the floor. I'll try take a picture today.

I've tried to use a wedge in the top method but you really have to make that custom to work and I struggled to find a good shape or place.

I'll have a new driver who is elderly in the Spring so I have to fix this right and will go with the Stabilus. OEM Volvo are $90 a piece. Ouch

Hi,

I may try something like that because this is starting to sound like a "might work" scene where i may be able to get the old ones off and new ones on or i might not be able to do that. Also, if they wear out again i will be pissed

I was thinking maybe a variation of the broomstick idea. Maybe a loop of wire in one end to make sure it is stable where it connects to the door, and maybe something on the back floor too to stabilize it so it cant be pushed out too easy.
My old Hyundai had this for the hood. It was a thick wire bar that had a single pivot on the bottom end and a hole where the end would enter in the hood. Lifting the hood, the bar end was inserted into the hole in the hood and thus would held it up and it was impossible to push that thing to the side and thus cause the hood to fall on your head because it was physically attached to the lower body of the car and inserted into that hole which kept it from sliding left or right. The only way to close the hood at that point would be to actually lift the hood again about 1.5 inches and then pivot the bar back down.
If i could find a way to do that with the trunk lid i think that would be good enough because i dont use the truck hatchback area that much anyway.
There is only one caution: that is if the wind is strong enough to lift up the hood/door then it could lift it and the bar will fall to the side and thus the door/hood will fall quickly. I am willing to go with that though and just be cautious.

Thanks for the other ideas too from everyone. This is something i have to think about for a little while, and do some measurements and maybe some modification work

If Volvo just made this a side opening door with hinges on either side this would never have become a problem.

[scot850]

Take your time and it is not a particularly hard job. I supported the tailgate door with a 2" x 4" wooden joist for this job.

The plastic is not too bad to remove, but try to use trim plastic removal tools at the rear edge by the tailgate.

Neil.

[scot850]

Going with the broom stick long term will damage the latch mechanism.

Neil.

[erikv11]

Take your time and it is not a particularly hard job. I supported the tailgate door with a 2" x 4" wooden joist for this job.

The plastic is not too bad to remove, but try to use trim plastic removal tools at the rear edge by the tailgate.

Neil.

This.

[abscate]

I ordered the Stabilus shocks x2 today.

[MrAl]

Take your time and it is not a particularly hard job. I supported the tailgate door with a 2" x 4" wooden joist for this job.

The plastic is not too bad to remove, but try to use trim plastic removal tools at the rear edge by the tailgate.

Neil.

Hi,

What about getting the old shock off and the new one on? Any problems there?

[MrAl]

Going with the broom stick long term will damage the latch mechanism.

Neil.

Hi,

Well i dont intend to use the latch mechanism as a support point. I looked at it yesterday and i dont think the whole panel back there should be used at all. I did see that the plastic on the sides of the window seem pretty strong though.

So the game plan is to cut a 1x2 inch pine strip, drive a hard steel screw into one end. Cut off the head of the screw forming a shaft with no head. Drill a hole into the plastic that surrounds the window so accept the screw shaft.
With the other end of the 1x2 planted firmly on the back carpet while lifting the door, place the screw shaft into the hole, lower the door slightly.
The only addition i can see with this so far is maybe another support on the bottom floor for the other end, such as a piece of wood with an indent in it that accepts the other end of the 1x2 and maybe screwed or bolted ot the floor.

[MrAl]

I ordered the Stabilus shocks x2 today.

Hi,

Congrats!

The game plan for me is to cut a 1x2 inch pine strip, drive a hard steel screw into one end. Cut off the head of the screw forming a shaft with no head. Drill a hole into the plastic that surrounds the window to accept the screw shaft.
With the other end of the 1x2 planted firmly on the back carpet while lifting the door, place the screw shaft into the hole, lower the door slightly.
The only addition i can see with this so far is maybe another support on the bottom floor for the other end, such as a piece of wood with an indent in it that accepts the other end of the 1x2 and maybe screwed or bolted to the floor.

I took a look at the hinges in order to figure out how a wedge would work and i see what you ran into now. The hinge mechanism curls into the hole in the body so it's not a wedgeable mechanism really. So i guess that idea is out. Also, someone else mentioned that it might not be a good idea to pressure that piece too much anyway. Good idea.

I also noticed that my lift shocks are not completely worn out. They are just weak, so the door does not appear as heavy as if there were no shocks in place or completely worn out ones. They may start to work again in summer i guess, but they may also wear more so i have to be aware of that too.