2001 V70 2.4T MA safety inspection failure (also) due to faulty parking brake Topic is solved

[abscate]

I thought NY was thorough! That's a serious inspection rule.

I think here they " confirm function" probably meaning they pull it up and feel resistance.

I put new rotor/drums on my T5 and have good parking brake, but it's more important with a stick shift of course. If you do get to the point where you need new rotors, put new shoes in too and they will outlive the car

[jonesg]

Here is the section concerning brakes from 540 CMR 4.00 9/5/2008, found linked here: https://www.mavehiclecheck.com/motorists-resources/ Emphasis added by me.

(4.) Brakes. (Non Commercial Vehicles)
540 CMR 4.00 9/5/2008 ANNUAL SAFETY & COMBINED SAFETY & EMISSIONS INSPECTION
Page 8 of 51
(a.) The inspector shall operate the vehicle to test the parking and service brake. The parking
brake on all vehicles will be tested by accelerating the motor to approximately 1,200 to 1,300
RPMs with the vehicle in the lowest forward gear against the brake in the applied position. The
vehicle will be rejected if the parking brake will not hold. The service brakes will be tested at a
speed of between four and eight MPH. Service brakes must be reasonably equalized so that the
vehicle does not pull to either side when applied. A test with the brake meter shall be made at a
speed of 15 to 25 MPH in all questionable cases.
(b.) Brakes shall be adequate to stop the vehicle from a speed of 20 MPH in not more than the
following distances:
Service (foot) Brake Pleasure Vehicles 30 feet
Trucks and Buses 40 feet
Parking (hand) Brake All Vehicles 80 feet
(c.) Additional Requirements For Types of Brake Systems.
(1.) Hydraulic Brake Systems. While the vehicle is stopped, apply approximately 125
pounds foot-force to the brake pedal and hold for ten seconds. Reject the vehicle if the
brake pedal height cannot be maintained or if less than 20% of the total available brake
pedal travel remains or if the brake failure warning light on vehicles so equipped
illuminates.
(2.) Power Brake Systems. Stop the vehicle engine and depress the brake pedal several
times to eliminate all vacuum in the system. Depress pedal with a light force,
approximately 25 pounds foot-force and while maintaining this force on pedal, start the
vehicle engine and observe if pedal moves slightly with engine running. The vehicle will
be rejected if the pedal does not move slightly as the engine is started while pressure on
the brake pedal is maintained. During the inspection of the vehicle, the condition of
visible hydraulic components should be checked. The vehicle shall be rejected if
evidence of fluid leaks or chafing, cracking, swelling, restriction or other damage exists
on hydraulic tubing or hoses or if they are not securely fastened or improperly retained.

So, I don't know where the inspector is getting the 1500 RPM number from, but there is definitely a requirement written into law, at least since 9/5/2008.

I made a few more adjustments this morning with a proper deep-wall socket, and it now looks to be holding at the RPM specified above. Of course I'll hold off any declaration of victory until it passes inspection.

These guys did my sticker after the first one failed it.

https://www.facebook.com/WakefieldGasANDService/

[jonesg]

I thought NY was thorough! That's a serious inspection rule.

I think here they " confirm function" probably meaning they pull it up and feel resistance.

I put new rotor/drums on my T5 and have good parking brake, but it's more important with a stick shift of course. If you do get to the point where you need new rotors, put new shoes in too and they will outlive the car

The MOT test in England sends many a nice Volvo to the knackers yard. Very tough.

Someone told me up here in maine they dont do emission tests. Don't know if that's true.

[prwood]

Update: my car passed inspection this morning. They marked the parking brake issue as repaired.

To summarize:

Problem
- Parking brake was not holding... not at all, really, but definitely not to the required RPM (approx 1200-1300).

Solution
1. Remove parking brake lever boot.
2. Tighten parking brake adjustment nut... a lot. Used a deep walled 9mm socket to do this quickly and easily.
3. Re-bed-in the parking brakes by performing a number of stops using the parking brake. Used this procedure here: http://bd8ba3c866c8cbc330ab-7b26c6f3e01 ... Bed_In.pdf

Note that in my case I did *not* need to replace the parking brake shoes as they still had a decent amount of meat left on them. In other cases you may need to replace the shoes first, and then adjust the parking brake.

Thanks, everyone, for your help!