difflock54 wrote: ↑02 Aug 2018, 19:21 Having turned over slowly it clearly was not seized solid.
Now you have managed to turn over the motor with plugs out I'd try adding a teaspoon of oil into each cylinder for good measure.
Then turn it over again,still with plugs out to help getting some lubrication to the upper motor components.
After that and assuming you haven't found any major oil leak, top off the oil to the correct FULL level and then try starting her up.
You may be lucky and it will be ok? but well worth a shot as opposed to just writing the motor off outright at this stage.
Motor Seized? Next steps?
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IronMike
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Re: Motor Seized? Next steps?
Yeah, it's just that it was locked up when I first showed up on the scene and only started to turn after towed. Maybe it was heated up and things expanded more than normal and cooled off after sitting for a while, or starter was heated up too. Huge doubt for me is the "screech" i heard every revolution (prior to removing the plugs and acc belt). It didn't screech at all on the first try with plugs out so wondering if that was the sound of rings against dry cyl wall (worse than nails on a black board I tells ya!). I've never had this happen so no idea if it would be THAT loud (it was very loud), but definitely had a cadence that would match a stroke of a piston or revolution of the engine. Hard to tell as I don't know the RPM of the starter at the time. What else would make as screech like that, don't suppose a cam would. Maybe shaft bearing (esp. if that's been leaking and already had less oil in the area that normal)? Just spitballing, will be able to tear into it some more tomorrow but won't be going too deep. Want to at least get the lower portion of timing belt cover off to see where oil is coming from. Any way to check water pump condition while there?
- oragex
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Hmm, could that screech be a seized alternator or a/c pulley ? That would make the belt slip and complain quite a bit. Maybe also the power steering pump if it got the wrong fluid (green is correct one) or is low in fluid.
Side note, with the plugs out, a healthy engine spins like a squirrel when cranked (nothing like with them in place). it really spins like an electric motor with a 'wheew' sound
Side note, with the plugs out, a healthy engine spins like a squirrel when cranked (nothing like with them in place). it really spins like an electric motor with a 'wheew' sound
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
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difflock54
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Yes, alternator clutch pulley's can seize up,so Ive read before.
Maybe the squeal is the serpentine belt slipping??
Maybe the squeal is the serpentine belt slipping??
- oragex
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Yet another thought.... maybe it's the starter that stays engaged and has just jammed? The fact the wires got hot when trying to fire it up... the screeching noise.
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... s0FSVSOT_c
- SuperHerman
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I am seeing some metal fragments caught in the filter. If your pistons and cylinders are good (which I doubt) then most likely your bottom end crank bearings and/or rod bearings are history and the crank is scored. Could be a fried oil pump but doubtful. Top end could also be toast.
At this point the only way to tell is to dismantle the engine. I think some of this work can be done with the engine still in the car by pulling the oil pan, but in a worse case scenario the parts will exceed the price of a used engine. If you farm this work out you will be underwater pretty quick and most likely be told you need a new engine.
That said - there are many posts regarding engine swap options. Better yet start another post on the subject. Once you know what engines will work you can shop motor prices and then decide if you want to scrap the car or repair. I have seen motors for as low as $400 on Craigslist and I have a guy that will do a remove and replace for around $500 labor (fluids, gaskets ... are at my expense and desire). Not sure what the rate in Boston is, but if you can get a new solid used motor in the car for under $2k it would be worth keeping if the rest of the car is well sorted.
Unfortunate.
At this point the only way to tell is to dismantle the engine. I think some of this work can be done with the engine still in the car by pulling the oil pan, but in a worse case scenario the parts will exceed the price of a used engine. If you farm this work out you will be underwater pretty quick and most likely be told you need a new engine.
That said - there are many posts regarding engine swap options. Better yet start another post on the subject. Once you know what engines will work you can shop motor prices and then decide if you want to scrap the car or repair. I have seen motors for as low as $400 on Craigslist and I have a guy that will do a remove and replace for around $500 labor (fluids, gaskets ... are at my expense and desire). Not sure what the rate in Boston is, but if you can get a new solid used motor in the car for under $2k it would be worth keeping if the rest of the car is well sorted.
Unfortunate.
- RickHaleParker
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There are two S70s at the Pick-n-Pull in Cumberland, RI, a 1999 and a 2000.
Engine Short Block $149.99 Core $19.99
Engine Long Block $164.99 Core $29.99
Engine F-Inj W/Access $197.99 Core $49.99
The lower ends on these engines are tough if you don't run them low on oil or sludge them. A used engine is a good bet.
Engine Short Block $149.99 Core $19.99
Engine Long Block $164.99 Core $29.99
Engine F-Inj W/Access $197.99 Core $49.99
The lower ends on these engines are tough if you don't run them low on oil or sludge them. A used engine is a good bet.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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IronMike
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Yeah sounds like I may need one... no joy. Oil drained into pan looks like a gold miners dream. What metal is goldish in appearance - bearing race?
- Attachments
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E8E40A2B-34BD-4E75-8344-EB708ACA2F72.MOV- (5.16 MiB) Downloaded 146 times
Last edited by IronMike on 05 Aug 2018, 12:52, edited 2 times in total.
- RickHaleParker
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Take a mechanic's stethoscope and pinpoint where the noise is coming from. A $10.00 tool, if it prevents misdiagnosis one time it has paid for itself.
⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙⸙
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
1998 C70, B5234T3, 16T, AW50-42, Bosch Motronic 4.4, Special Edition package.
2003 S40, B4204T3, 14T twin scroll AW55-50/51SN, Siemens EMS 2000.
2004 S60R, B8444S TF80 AWD. Yamaha V8 conversion
2005 XC90 T6 Executive, B6294T, 4T65 AWD, Bosch Motronic 7.0.
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IronMike
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Agreed, but that noise wasn't there prior to this incident and the top end sounds very normal. Under the car, different story. Too bad, she served us well and I just replaced pretty much anything replaceable by a shade tree mechanic over the past 2 years. Maybe it's worth another engine, just can't be sure...RickHaleParker wrote: ↑05 Aug 2018, 12:41 Take a mechanic's stethoscope and pinpoint where the noise is coming from. A $10.00 tool, if it prevents misdiagnosis one time it has paid for itself.
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