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[2001 V70 2.4T] Oil leak, intake side, lower engine / oil pan

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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abscate
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Re: [2001 V70 2.4T] Oil leak, intake side, lower engine / oil pan

Post by abscate »

Im going with PCV leak, crank hose, and oil is getting spread to rear of engine.

Final answer.

Do you need a bore scope to look or invite me to the tear-down?

These contests have to be observed by an auditor from KMPG, of course.
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Post by jonesg »

Same reply, stick your phone up there and take pics. Fun fun fun.

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dlundblad
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Post by dlundblad »

abscate wrote: 25 Aug 2018, 18:17 Thats a full fledged Volvo Valdez
Excellent terminology.
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chrism
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Post by chrism »

Looking at the "#2" connection in your photos.......

I don't know about the turbos, but on the NA engines there are two different sizes of hoses and lower ports into the engine and you have to be careful that you get the correct version for your engine, otherwise it doesn't fit right. I'm just wondering if there's any chance you have a mis-match there.

When I did the PCV on my '03 2.4 NA I mistakenly got a separator box with a large hose when I actually needed the smaller version.

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Post by Rattnalle »

chrism wrote: 29 Aug 2018, 16:17 Looking at the "#2" connection in your photos.......

I don't know about the turbos, but on the NA engines there are two different sizes of hoses and lower ports into the engine and you have to be careful that you get the correct version for your engine, otherwise it doesn't fit right. I'm just wondering if there's any chance you have a mis-match there.

When I did the PCV on my '03 2.4 NA I mistakenly got a separator box with a large hose when I actually needed the smaller version.
I also got the wrong version but it's so wrong it should be impossible to fit it without noticing..

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Post by prwood »

I used this IPD-branded kit when I did the PCV job last year.

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/11110/1 ... xc70-turbo

PCV job completed August 3 2017 @ 215,625 miles. I first noticed the leak around August 23 2018 @ 238,471 miles. Current odometer 238,863 miles. It looks like this leak showed up around 1 year / 20,000 miles.

All of the parts I got seemed to fit correctly. I'm wondering if a hose clamp wasn't tightened down enough (the kit I got came with worm drive clamps instead of Oetiker clamps specified by Volvo). Or maybe a hose has developed a crack. (IPD's warranty is 1 year... coincidence?)

At this point as long as we take it easy on the gas pedal it doesn't leak too much, so I'm not planning to disassemble things right away.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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Post by abscate »

A
t this point as long as we take it easy on the gas pedal it doesn't leak too much,
I am liking the PCV broken part diagnosis even more....

:D
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Post by chrism »

prwood wrote: 30 Aug 2018, 08:36
At this point as long as we take it easy on the gas pedal it doesn't leak too much, so I'm not planning to disassemble things right away.
Before you do tear it apart you may want to perform a rubber glove test just to see if the PCV system is still working right. You wouldn't want to miss out on the opportunity to do more work while you're in there. :cry:

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Post by prwood »

Update: I did the rubber glove test and it's showing nice strong suction, so it seems like that's good.

Depending on whether I have a backup car available, I may be taking things apart this weekend. My main goal is to inspect the front of the block, along with the oil trap and associated hoses and connections, to see if I can find the source of the leak. There are two main approaches I'm considering to gain access:

1. Remove the fuel rail, injectors, and intake manifold to gain access. This is what I did last time, and also what most videos and instructions I've seen online assume.
2. Remove the fan shroud, alternator, and power steering pump to gain access. This is what VIDA specifies in its procedure for cleaning the PCV nipple.

#1 Pros:
a. Doesn't require removing accessory belt.
b. Gives full access from the front.
c. Good opportunity to clean injectors, intake, etc.

#1 Cons:
a. Requires working with fuel system.
b. Requires replacing intake manifold gasket.
c. Leaves alternator and power steering pump on left side which somewhat obstructs removal and replacement of the banjo bolt on the intake manifold.

#2 Pros:
a. Doesn't require replacing any gaskets.
b. Doesn't require working with fuel system or messing with injectors.
c. Gives good access to left hand side and banjo bolt on intake manifold.
d. Fewer bolts to remove.
e. Probably faster.

#2 Cons:
a. Access and view aren't as good as removing intake manifold.
b. Requires removing accessory belt (while not difficult, every time you remove and replace it stretches out a bit).


Any thoughts?
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE

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Post by Rattnalle »

I don't really see how #2 can give you a much better view than just poking around down there with a flashlight with everything in place. I mean without taking anything out you can still see most of the PCV stuff if you poke around a bit. A flashlight at dusk or when overcast so that it's lighter where you point the light than the daylight around you helps me at least.

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