Also the VVT solenoid gasket(s) depending on the state of your solenoid(s).prwood wrote: ↑07 Sep 2018, 10:28You might also want to replace the camshaft oil seals since they're going to come out anyway. In my case I had done that recently as a separate job, so they were in pretty good shape when I went to reseal the cam cover, and I just kept the same ones.Cupojoe710 wrote: ↑07 Sep 2018, 10:21 I was expecting a lot more than just o rings lol. I appreciate all the help! As soon as my cam cover gets here I'll update on the process.
Cam cover removal
- prwood
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Re: Cam cover removal
Cars I've owned:
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- erikv11
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Nice job on the cam seals!
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
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gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k
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Cupojoe710
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I forgot to mention I am also replacing my timing belt. Should I replace any pulleys or the tentioner while I'm at it?
- BlackBart
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Yep. New idler pulley and tensioner. These are the pieces that usually fail first. How old is your water pump? Easy to get to while you're in there.
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Cupojoe710
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My water pump is good, no squeaking or play. I have a question about the procedure. Why do I need a cam lock? To my knowledge it's just for keeping the cam in time, but if I'm redoing the timing do I need it?
- prwood
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If you're redoing the timing, you need it to ensure that the cams don't turn out of time while the belt is off and cause valve damage. Especially when you're working the big VVT hub bolts on or off.Cupojoe710 wrote: ↑13 Sep 2018, 08:06 My water pump is good, no squeaking or play. I have a question about the procedure. Why do I need a cam lock? To my knowledge it's just for keeping the cam in time, but if I'm redoing the timing do I need it?
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
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- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
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Cupojoe710
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That makes sense, would I need the cam lock for the rear of the cams or the front of the cams?
- prwood
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The cam lock tool I used goes on the rear of the cams:Cupojoe710 wrote: ↑13 Sep 2018, 08:30 That makes sense, would I need the cam lock for the rear of the cams or the front of the cams?
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... s-cta-2864

Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- prwood
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And as BlackBart mentioned, do NOT crank down the bolts on the cam lock. I had the same issue as he did with a bolt getting stuck in the cam. Since then, whenever I have used the cam lock, I just finger tighten the bolts as much as I can - literally, just with my fingers. As long as you get it to the point where there is no in-out play, it will do its job.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
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