Cold start issues.

[misha]

Just to be clear, are you saying that the car starts/runs fine when its cold as long as you let the ignition stay in pos 2 for a full minute without starting? If that is the case, sounds like fuel pressure is having hard time getting up to full pressure. I have read on these forums that some have used cheap tire pressure gauges to check fuel pressure on fuel rail. I'd give that a try while a helper cranks the car.

With key in position II,fuel pump runs for 2 seconds and stops....after that you can leave the key in that position for as long as you want...it won't run again....untill you move the key back in pos I and again in pos.II...so fuel pressure have nothing to do with this.

[misha]

Somewhere between 40 and 50psi.

43.5 psi on 1st prime before starting the engine.
Around 35psi at idle.
43.5 psi at full throttle.

[dj_v70]

Whoops, I stand corrected once again! Thanks Misha. Luckily, I am old and can blame it on senility:)

Diagnostics off the top of my head ...
a) Check for OBDII codes.
b) Weak spark is more problematic when engine is (very) cold. Good tune up is essential. I think you have Distributor cap/rotor/wires on this car (last year?). I always kept a set for troubleshooting.
c) Vacuum leaks can affect car worse when engine is (very) cold. I like to disconnect all vacuum hoses and plug them on manifold tree and test if car works better. Also can use carb cleaner and spray around manifold, etc once running (but not on hot engine, don't want a fire).
d) ECT as already mentioned.
e) Fuel pressure not correct as already mentioned.

[pb49415]

Where is the access located? Is it on the rail the fuel injectors are on? I think there’s a scrader valve on the end. I did have a dist cap go out on a car years ago. I’ll check to see if it has one. A new set of plugs wouldn’t hurt either.

[dj_v70]

Yes, fuel pressure access is through schrader valve on fuel rail.

[pb49415]

Ok. I’ve ruled out condensation in the system. Last Monday morning it failed to start even with leaving the ignition on. Tank was 2/3rds full. Temperature -10. Motor rolled over. Fired once and died. Wife and myself pulled it home. Added a bottle of Heet to it. Put in the garage until that night when I went to work started fine. Next morning after work drove around for about 50 miles filled the tank with premium, added a condensation remover, some octane booster. Drove it 80 miles the following day.

Ran the best it’s run in a long time. Thought for sure it was condensation, but I would sure think that 130 miles of driving on good gas would purge it through right?

Again last night it only got down to +12 and left me hitching home after work this morning. My hearings bad so I can’t say I’ve ever noticed the sound of the pump. So I think I might pull the relay and bring it inside warm. And try it again. That seems reasonable. Easy fix if it is. Either way it rules itself out or the pump. It’s a heat related deal with the relay or the pump or both.

[JimBee]

Easy fixes are wonderful If that doesn't fix it, I agree with above suggestions that the electronic coolant temperature sensor (ECT) is suspect, especially if it has never been replaced.

Why the ECT? Others might correct me, but as I understand it, that sensor sends information to the engine control module, informing how much fuel should be supplied to the engine, particularly at startup. It works on ohms resistance and over time those sensors do wear and send incorrect data (ohms) to the engine's brain. If the data call for less fuel than you'll need for a very cold start, what you're experiencing could be the result.

[E Showell]

My experience with the ECT tends to be the opposite. I've noted a bad ECT signals to over enrich the mixture thereby flooding the engine and rendering cold starting difficult if not impossible. So the problem is not fuel starvation, but rather too much gas. One thing that may be diagnostic of a bad ECT is next time you have trouble with a cold start hold the accelerator to the floor when starting (more air -- thus leaning out the mixture). If you get a good start with the pedal to the metal, I'd say you should be thinking about replacing that ECT sensor.

[mopmandan]

Just experienced cold start issue - it started fine one day and the next, it started but ran rough. Died then no start. Sputters a bit when I try - tried full throttle crank as well. Nada. I replaced ECT last year with factory Volvo piece. Did thermostat at the same time. Found that the wires were slipping through the rubber connector, so pushed them through, connected them manually then slid the connector back in place. Started fine ever since...until last week. Now what gives?

[dj_v70]

Generally when a car doesn’t start, 90% of time it is fuel or spark. As E. Shower notes if fuel is rich it will likely start after 10 or 20 seconds cranking with gas pedal to the floor. If not, shoot starting fluid into manifold and see if the car runs for a few seconds and quits (no fuel delivery). If those 2 are inconclusive, take out one plug, ground electrode and crank it to see if it sparks. If not, spark is inhibited for some reason.