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Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/tens

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Instructions w/pics: Changing Timing Belt/Water Pump/Tensioner
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Trilarry
Posts: 242
Joined: 11 January 2007
Year and Model:
Location: HILL COUNTRY, TEXAS, USA

Post by Trilarry »

98 S70 T5 225600 Miles as of January 17, 2009

dasapir
Posts: 155
Joined: 24 October 2006
Year and Model: 98 S70 turbo GTL
Location: Indiana

Post by dasapir »

If still in doubt about the "V's" in the gear there should be, in addition to the 2 small "V's" on both sides of the groove n the camshaft gear, if you strain hard and look down on the backside where the camshaft pulley attaches you will see another line (marking).

You will need a good light and look behind the pulley and straight down. This line is situated directly in the middle of the valley of the gear with the 2 notches and will line-up with the line or mark on the engine block as easily seen on the "highlighted" photo on the Volvospeed repair listing which Trilarry just posted.

Just a reminder to make sure when you are putting the new timing belt back on keep the right side taught (front of car). The tensioner will remove the slack on the left side. And once the new belt is on recheck the position of the intake and exhaust camshaft pulleys. I found the exhaust often creeps a little, so the belt will need to come off the pulley and camshaft re-positioned to line up with the notch. Again, check check and recheck the alignment with the new belt before calling it a day.

Overall, not that hard, though.
'98 S70 turbo GLT

Woodchimps
Posts: 11
Joined: 14 May 2007
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by Woodchimps »

:P Have seen all the postings and appreciate all the response. I also have been visiting "Bay 13"(shame on me). I bought a TDC gage from Amazon.com and when my cam marks are aligned as specified I am ~ 2 marks before TDC. Should I go with the marks as per the Bay 13 & Mathews Volvo instructions or go with TDC according to the TDC gage?

Thanks for any guidance,

KLC :?:

dasapir
Posts: 155
Joined: 24 October 2006
Year and Model: 98 S70 turbo GTL
Location: Indiana

Post by dasapir »

I cannot honestly answer. The TDC indicator from amazon, I presume, is a slider gauge which changes its position as the piston is raised or lowered within the cylinder, thus indicating the highest mechanical position and thus TDC.

What is improtant in setting the timing belt is the synchronous position of the camshaft and the intake and exhaust valves such that when the piston is at TDC the timing of the opening and closing of the valves (which are closed in this position) are coordinated. Therefore, I believe, the the factory settings should be accurate with regard to camshaft and valve position (the marks should indicate a similar position relative to their movement), even though it may be a degree or 2 off.

I know that on the old VW distributors there was a line which could be lined-up with the rotor for TDC in Spark plug # 1. if this is so with volvo I cannot be sure, but that could be another check to see if everything lines up.

For me, I used the factory markings and did not check for TDC. I presume most mechanics use the markings, though finding true TDC my be better. Perhaps, someone else has a different opinion regarding the specific accuracy of TB placement and exact accuracy of TDC.

I hope this helps.
'98 S70 turbo GLT

larryh
Posts: 256
Joined: 28 March 2006
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Post by larryh »

i would be very carefull about disregarding the factory timing marks.
i am curious.. who says the crank and cam gear marks correspond with #1 tdc? volvo uses some tool in the other end of the engine to set the timing and it requires removing the starter and some other stuff. it's way more complex than sticking a screwdriver in the spark plug hole. i wonder why?

Trilarry
Posts: 242
Joined: 11 January 2007
Year and Model:
Location: HILL COUNTRY, TEXAS, USA

Post by Trilarry »

If you stick with the factory directions you can't go wrong on the timing. The marks are there to be followed. They are the map to the correct position. When I had my head off of my T5, if I brought the #1 piston all the way up to the edge of the block (full top) my timing mark on the crank was forward of the mark on the engine block. Best advice is to follow your marks.

Be advised that I have a 98 T5 and it originally had a crankshaft gear that had a slit on 2 teeth that you would set your timing in between those. The splines on my gear was later damaged(long story) so I went to a salvage yard and took a crankshaft gear off a 93 850. The timing mark on this was a V shaped valley between two of the teeth. Different from the 98 gear.

There is only one way this gear can go on so trust it and don't second guess it. It's your compass setting for all the other timing marks. The camgears can be installed incorrectly, but the crankshaft gear is your "true north".
I hope it works out for you.
Tri
Last edited by Trilarry on 20 May 2007, 20:26, edited 1 time in total.
98 S70 T5 225600 Miles as of January 17, 2009

Woodchimps
Posts: 11
Joined: 14 May 2007
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by Woodchimps »

:roll: I removed the old belt by cutting(shame on me). Was able to clearly see the block marking. The 98 S70 does in fact have the two groved teeth instead of the marking down in the depression between the two. My camshaft marks did match up with the cover when the crankshaft was indexed properly. I am going with the marks and forgetting about the TDC gage. To speed the process of belt install, I have taken the 30mm nut and the 4 10mm bolts off the crankshaft serpentine pulley. HOW DO I GET THIS PULLEY OFF WITHOUT BREAKING ANYTHING????

Thanks for any assistance,

KLC :?:

Woodchimps
Posts: 11
Joined: 14 May 2007
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by Woodchimps »

:lol: Solved the mystery without breaking anything. :idea: Used inertial puller with a 90 deg. attachment on the back side of pulley. Took two taps. The project progresses. Will report back when engine starts with no abnormal results.

KLC

Trilarry
Posts: 242
Joined: 11 January 2007
Year and Model:
Location: HILL COUNTRY, TEXAS, USA

Post by Trilarry »

Good Job! Taking the pulley off will quicken the process and lessen the frustration of flipping that new belt around and over the pulley. Make sure that 30mm nut is torqued down before the engine is ran. That's how my gear was worn out. The previous owner never replaced the Crankshaft nut after a waterpump job. Hang in there you are almost done.
Tri
98 S70 T5 225600 Miles as of January 17, 2009

Woodchimps
Posts: 11
Joined: 14 May 2007
Year and Model:
Location:

Post by Woodchimps »

:P Job done yesterday early evening. No problems upon startup. Slight engine noise that I finally attributed to noisy tappet from sitting around for a couple of weeks. Just as the postings said, the exhaust valve gear would move when putting on the timing belt. Even when I have it on and aligned, the tensioner adjustment also cause it to move once. After everything on, rotated the engine a couple of rev. by hand to ensure alignment. After initial startup, did again to make sure. My daughter is a very happer camper!

KLC

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