camshaft locking tool broke...... Topic is solved

[Goldchemist]

oh i see. you are correct. i used the universal front cam lock tool. doesn’t see like it gave way though. it’s definitley not as strong as counter hold could be. i should use a counter hold. you’re right. i thought the rear camshaft locking tool would be enough. oh and i had the timing belt still on when i was trying to break the T55 bolt loose. i guess the timing belt sort of acted like a counter hold too?

[cn90]

I may be wrong but the counterhold tool would not prevent the tabs from breaking.
The center bolt goes directly to the end of the camshaft.

It is just bad mfg.

Use the "$110" tool and you will be fine.

[Goldchemist]

True, not sure if the counter hold tool would prevent the tabs from breaking, don't think so, good idea to use one though anyway.

So I put the timing belt back on and turned the engine over numerous times looking for the timing marks on the crankshaft gear. Finally found them after about 12 turns. Lined 'em up and check the rear ends of the camshafts. Bam, top dead center! All lined up.

So I went and bought the FCP Euro camshaft locking tool for about $110. Attached it a few nights ago and it worked great. Finally got the hubs off!

And I ALMOST found the source of my oil leak. So I pulled out the front camshaft seals and there were puddles of oil behind them. Cleaned them all up. But now I can't figure out how exactly they could have been leaking. They look fine. Its not like oil was leaking out from the seals, the oil was behind the seals in a puddle. I will attach pictures.

Could the oil be leaking from somewhere else in there? So if you can see the picture, the oil is pooled up behind the orange seal. I'm trying to imagine the path the oil would take to get there. The hub bolt was covered with oil also. Almost as if the oil was coming from behind the hub bolt. Any ideas? Thanks everyone for all of the assistance!

edited - the line up of the timing marks is NOT Top Dead Center - we tend to jump on that here because it is a $2000 mistake if you set the crank and cams on TDC and put the belt on, and try to start/move the motor.

[RickHaleParker]

I may be wrong but the counterhold tool would not prevent the tabs from breaking.
The center bolt goes directly to the end of the camshaft.

The counter hold will hold the hub and camshaft as one overcomes initial resistance. After that it does not take much torque to turn the bolt. It is high torque that sheared the tabs off.

[cn90]

- Oil leaks at the interface between the rotating VVT hub and the cam seal.
Look carefully at the seal, it has a "garter spring" underneath that keeps it tight.
Re-install new seal using:
- either Volvo or Corteco (which is OEM), nothing else.
- note the existing seal location, it looks like it is 1 mm from the edge. Install the new seal exactly as factory.

I involved in another thread about cam seal leak, you can see all the photos in the thread below...

Large oil leak after replacing Exhaust VVT, see the posts by "jordank":

https://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-xc9 ... 251/page2/

[Goldchemist]

oh i see. yes, i bought the volvo part. will check that link ASAP. thanks all!

[Goldchemist]

wow. i checked that link and there is a TON of information. i’m planning on purchasing the VVT O-rings. but darn i didn’t plan on buying new hubs too! thanks again.

[Goldchemist]

Hey guys and gals.

I've replaced the camshaft seals and hub o-rings for both my intake and exhaust hubs. Now I'm ready to put it all back together. I am reading the CVVT hub setting guide and I have a bunch of questions. Here are the first few:
1. I rotated my engine to TDC and attached the rear cam locking tool. I marked my hub gears with white out using the timing cover as my guide. So, as far as I'm concerned, my engine was in perfect time, and all gears marked. when I removed my timing belt, the hubs and gears did not move at all. I removed the hubs, changed the seals, now ready to install hubs again. Here is my question, do I still need to rotate the gear/hub forward so that my marks are lined up with the timing cover? The gear/hub didn't spring back when I took off the timing belt. And since they are marked I can just put them on in alignment with the timing cover. why rotate?
2. I see in the CVVT hub setting guide that 2002 and newer models should have floating hubs (no internal spring). Mine is a 2006. Sounds obvious, but I can move mine back and forth, doesn't feel spring loaded, but how can I tell if mine really need to be rotated forward?

I guess I could just play with them and see if their spring loaded etc. but that isn't sound like a good idea. My initial thoughts are, I marked the gears at the timing cover marks, I'm putting them back on at exactly the same position, they didn't move when I removed the timing belt, they should be in perfect timing still.

I will say, I notice that the holes on the inside of my hubs seem to line up with the holes in the camshaft where it mounts up. It just seems like it would be timed perfectly. Bottom line is I don't to go through the 'trial and error'. the author of the CVVT setting guide has all the instructions to avoid the trial and error, just doesn't seem like mine are spring loaded. I think I will start back at the beginning of the guide and go step by step by step again.

Thanks for the help!

[RickHaleParker]

Post a picture of your CVVT hubs. There is more then one type, as far as I know nobody here walks around with a catalog of which where used where.

[Goldchemist]

So I finally got a picture of the universal cam locking tool but could not get a good picture of the front of each hub yet. I will get one later. By that time though I think I will have taken everything apart again. I was just trying to avoid removing the timing belt again and then messing something else up. I put the hubs on, not fully torqued yet, but the marks I made are all perfectly line up. I'm so eager to get her started. But, better to take the time and remove everything now. I will try to get the exact part number off the hubs as well.

thanks!