Volvo Camshaft Locking Tool Front (850 S70 V70) - CTA 2883

Post by **Eddystone** » 14 Aug 2019, 13:05

Volvo Camshaft Locking Tool Front (850 S70 V70) - CTA 2883

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 83#reviews

Is it accurate that this tool cannot be used on a 1999 S70 or V70 with Variable Valve Timing?

That's what FCP says, and they are usually right. Are the sprockets that much different compared to the 1998 models?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 14 Aug 2019, 20:41

The sprockets aren't really different in size but the way they hook up to the camshaft is different.

The CVVT sprocket more or less floats over a several degree band. You can turn the sprocket several degrees and the camshaft itself won't move.

When doing the belt on a CVVT you have to go through the preload procedure to get the camshaft and the sprocket into its operating range. It is a quick process but it requires that you set the timing once and then loosen the tensioner, remove the belt from the cam sprockets, and then do it again. We have a bunch of threads on properly setting the preload.

...Lee

Post by **Chuck W** » 14 Aug 2019, 21:57

I just used the rear locking tool when I did the timing belt on the new motor ('01 LPT with EVVT) for the wife's car.

The front lock would keep the pulley from rotating, but the cam may not be in the "proper" orientation, which the rear lock takes care of.

Post by **Eddystone** » 15 Aug 2019, 13:59

Chuck W wrote: ↑14 Aug 2019, 21:57 I just used the rear locking tool when I did the timing belt on the new motor ('01 LPT with EVVT) for the wife's car.

The front lock would keep the pulley from rotating, but the cam may not be in the "proper" orientation, which the rear lock takes care of.

My experience doing a 2000 S40 was that the exhaust (?) sprocket was essentially spring loaded. Let's say the car is perfectly timed to begin with. Ideally, you want to replace the belt by keeping the crank and the two cam sprockets in EXACTLY the same relationship to each other. With VVT, as soon as you remove the belt, the one sprocket will be rotated as if it is spring loaded and mess up the timing relationship with the other two sprockets.

I don't see how you can replace the timing belt without immobilizing all three sprockets BEFORE you cut or otherwise remove the existing timing belt.

That's why I am asking about whether the CTA 2883 will work with the VVT cars or not. If the sprockets are different, the tool likely will not work.

There seem to be lots of generic cam-locking tools out there that should work. Using the Volvo-specific tool would be great if you happen to have access to one, but shelling out over $100 if you could do just as well with the $20 part is crazy.

So let refine the question: What are the TOOL options for immobilizing the cam sprockets when you do a VVT timing belt?

Post by **Chuck W** » 15 Aug 2019, 16:08

I aligned the timing marks. Installed the crank holder in the block. Installed the rear cam lock tool.
Marked the exhaust cam sprocket and made a match mark on the back of it and the block.

When the belt was removed, the sprocket rotated. When I put the belt back on, I rotated the sprocket back to the marks and installed the belt. Everything was in time.

Post by **Eddystone** » 16 Aug 2019, 07:28

Chuck W wrote: ↑15 Aug 2019, 16:08 I aligned the timing marks. Installed the crank holder in the block. Installed the rear cam lock tool.
Marked the exhaust cam sprocket and made a match mark on the back of it and the block.

When the belt was removed, the sprocket rotated. When I put the belt back on, I rotated the sprocket back to the marks and installed the belt. Everything was in time.

Thanks for the input, Chuck. When I did it on the S40, it was my fist timing belt change. I understood about traditional systems (old school) but didn't anticipate the one sprocket jumping when I removed the belt. I sure learned a lesson that day. Next time, I will mark everything, including the belt.

Question: why would the sprocket rotate if you had the rear cam lock tool installed?

I guess the sprocket is locked in synch with the crank via the belt but attached to the cam through some spring loaded gizmo. Presumably, when the VVT solenoid is activated, the cam is effectively advanced or retarded independent of the sprocket.

If this is the case, locking the cam sprockets to each other would be sufficient to keep everything aligned as long as you do not rotate the crank with the belt off. The rear cam lock tool is added insurance while you are working, but the cam should not move on its own.

As is often the case, Robert DIY Spinner has a video that complete duplicates my experience -- IF you are not replacing camshaft seals.

In my one experience, even with the belt and spring-loaded cam sprocket marked, it is a bear of a job rotating a sprocket while installing the belt since the belt is so tight that it may not just slide right onto the cog you want it to. I also know from experience that you can get the belt installed with the timing not perfect and still not get an engine code telling you it is incorrect. How much difference it makes if you are a few degrees off, I do not know, but the engine will appear to run normally and not throw a code if you are within a certain window.

As is often the case, Robert DIY Spinner has a video:

Replacing belt and parts on the front of the engine, use the blue sprocket-locking tool. If replacing camshaft seals, you need the rear-mounted camshaft-locking tool.

Post by **Chuck W** » 16 Aug 2019, 08:35

I forgot about replacing the seals (which I did). The matchmarking was done to get things back together properly.
You can just see my yellow mark on the VVT solenoid in this pic. There were 2 corresponding marks on the back of the pulley. One for with the belt installed and one for where it winds up after the belt is removed (for reinstalling in the proper location after changing the seals).

I had just searched on doing the belt on one of the VVT engines, and just followed what was done. Engine fired on the first crank when we finished it up.

Post by **Eddystone** » 16 Aug 2019, 23:39

"I had just searched on doing the belt on one of the VVT engines, and just followed what was done. Engine fired on the first crank when we finished it up."

As long as you get the original relationship between the sprockets and the crank back where it was, you're fine. I would rather used the $20 locking tool and not have to fight with the spring-loaded VVT sprocket. I can tell you for a fact that you can put it back together with the VVT sprocket off by maybe two or three teeth and still have the engine fire right up with no codes, or at least that is true on the 4-cylinder S40. I think if you marked everything as you said, you are probably in excellent shape. When I did that S40 some years ago, I had never heard of VVT and was quite surprised when the sprocket jumped. Since I was completely ignorant of this, I had not marked the old belt and transferred the marks to the new belt, and I was up the creek. Sounds as if you did just fine.

In my defense, I did read and print out the Volvo factory instructions for doing the timing belt, but they were for a non-VVT engine.