Drivers window broken - need some advice
- abscate
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Re: Drivers window broken - need some advice
A window in Montana winter is no picnic indeed, that Safeway option is eminently reasonable
Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
- E Showell
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This repair takes 1/2 hour to 45 min. including beer sipping time, i.e., at a VERY leisurely pace (one door only). I did mine in the driveway in January or February. You don't need to be able to do it inside and depending on your cold tolerance, it can easily be done in 40 degree weather. This is a simple, but quite satisfying repair.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
- prwood
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Ugh, I'm feeling for you. I've had to replace the window regulator and sliding blocks twice on my '01 V70, both times in the dead of winter, outside. Just a few random thoughts from my experience:
In my observations, this tends to happen most during winter because:
- Window glass can freeze to weatherstrip, requiring more force from the motor to break the seal and leading to extra stress on the regulator arms
- The plastic of the sliding blocks gets very rigid and brittle, making them less flexible when the regulator arms move and more likely to crack
- Weatherstrip around the window gets more rigid, and yields less to the motion of window glass, which may make the regulator work harder if the weatherstrip isn't quite on track
The repair process is also a pain in the butt in the winter, if you're doing it outside. I tried to wait for the warmest possible weather to do it, but in one case I had to do it with 20F ambient temps plus wind chill. In addition to my fingers freezing (I couldn't maneuver with gloves on) the plastic tabs on the door panel electrical connectors became super rigid, which was a real hassle since I had to disconnect/reconnect them several times over the course of the repair, in order to raise/lower the regulator arms for various steps.
The sliding block breaking is so common that my Volvo dealer's parts department stocks tons of them in a drawer directly in front of the service window. They didn't even need to look it up - I just said "sliding block" and they reached down and grabbed a handful.
If your regulator arms weren't bent by the falling glass, and it's just the sliding blocks you have to replace, you'll have a slightly easier time than I did.
Using a big but not the biggest size channel lock plier was my best method for snapping the regulator ball into the sliding block. I supported the window glass from above and used the power window switch to position the regulator arms at the most accessible height, which was different for each sliding block - after doing the left side block, I had to raise the arms about 3" in order to properly reach the right side with the channel locks.
In my observations, this tends to happen most during winter because:
- Window glass can freeze to weatherstrip, requiring more force from the motor to break the seal and leading to extra stress on the regulator arms
- The plastic of the sliding blocks gets very rigid and brittle, making them less flexible when the regulator arms move and more likely to crack
- Weatherstrip around the window gets more rigid, and yields less to the motion of window glass, which may make the regulator work harder if the weatherstrip isn't quite on track
The repair process is also a pain in the butt in the winter, if you're doing it outside. I tried to wait for the warmest possible weather to do it, but in one case I had to do it with 20F ambient temps plus wind chill. In addition to my fingers freezing (I couldn't maneuver with gloves on) the plastic tabs on the door panel electrical connectors became super rigid, which was a real hassle since I had to disconnect/reconnect them several times over the course of the repair, in order to raise/lower the regulator arms for various steps.
The sliding block breaking is so common that my Volvo dealer's parts department stocks tons of them in a drawer directly in front of the service window. They didn't even need to look it up - I just said "sliding block" and they reached down and grabbed a handful.
If your regulator arms weren't bent by the falling glass, and it's just the sliding blocks you have to replace, you'll have a slightly easier time than I did.
Using a big but not the biggest size channel lock plier was my best method for snapping the regulator ball into the sliding block. I supported the window glass from above and used the power window switch to position the regulator arms at the most accessible height, which was different for each sliding block - after doing the left side block, I had to raise the arms about 3" in order to properly reach the right side with the channel locks.
Cars I've owned:
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- 2015 to current: 2001 Volvo V70 2.4T; 2004 Honda Odyssey
- 2007 to 2015: 2002 Subaru Legacy L Wagon
- 2003 to 2016: 2001 Toyota Corolla LE
- 1999 to 2003: 1994 Toyota Camry LE
- E Showell
- Posts: 3275
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Ding, ding, ding -- we have a winner. Pick any stuffed animal from the top shelf.
'98 V70 NA FWD 5 spd, silver sand metallic (sold)
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
'99 V70 NA FWD Auto, dark blue (sold)
'99 S70 NA FWD Auto, black (sold and resurrected -- Don't cry for me Argentina . . . )
'07 S80 3.2 FWD Auto, Barents Blue Metallic
'06 V70 R AWD Auto, Sonic Blue Metallic (sold)
'04 XC70 Ruby Red Metallic (sold)
'95 855 auto (sold)
'86 245 manual (sold)
'05 V70 T5 M (totalled)
'06 V70 FWD Auto (totalled)
'02 Honda Insight CVT
‘04 Honda Insight CVT — “Yesterday’s car of tomorrow” (sold)
‘06 Honda Insight CVT
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