2001 XC Car Will Not Start Anymore, intermittent crank, no fire

[Oka]

After doing some work in the car, it will start and drive.
From the beginning, it will drive for about one of two days, (twelve or twenty miles) the car will start hesitating and then stall. Though the engine will turn quite alright but it will not start. After every part replacement, the car will do exactly the same.

- Replaced the throttle unit
- Replaced the spark plugs
- Replaced both outside temperature sensors (which were not working)
- Replaced with a Bosch MAF

The only difference in the symptom is, today, at 31F, the car could start with the remote starter, which was really good.
Drove it today for twelve miles when I noticed some hesitation. Turned to go back home, two miles off, it stalled on the road
and won't start. Got it towed.

Thanks

[highmiles]

I know this will be counter intuitive, but what about the battery itself. I have had situations where the battery would start the car but while running lights would dim, car would start missing etc. I am no battery expert, but maybe something about some of the internal plates going bad but not all?

[volvolugnut]

Have you checked engine off and engine running battery voltages? Engine off voltage will tell you if battery is charged and the battery general condition - it should be about 12.5 volt or better. It will depend some on the temperature. Test only after sitting off for half hour or so. Measure directly at battery terminals and again at remote battery terminals under the hood. If there is a cable problem the voltage under hood will be lower.

Running voltage will tell you if the charging system is working. Charging voltage should be about 14.0 to 14.5 volts at the battery. If lower, the alternator, regulator etc. has a problem. If much higher, you have over charging and too high voltage will damage things.

It appears you me, you have a condition causing failure after everything gets to operating temperature. Have you confirmed again that the ETM is still working when the engine stalls? Checked the ETM for key on (but not started) buzz for about 10 seconds? I think this test still applies for 2003 model.

Have you checked electrical contacts at ETM cable? Not corroded or loose? Use a spare male connector or other part of the same thickness as the male terminals to push in and pull out of the female connector. ( I found the flat stainless stiffener from a wiper blade is the same size as some male terminals) If it is loose, carefully adjust the female connect to get better fit.

If problem is not here, you may need to do the same inspection of connectors at the ETM, TCM (should both be in the cooler box at right side in front of steering fluid) and the CEM (under the dash above hood release). These locations may be different on 2003 S60.
The theory here is that some wiring connector warms up, expands and you loose connectivity.

Volvolugnut

[Oka]

I know this will be counter intuitive, but what about the battery itself. I have had situations where the battery would start the car but while running lights would dim, car would start missing etc. I am no battery expert, but maybe something about some of the internal plates going bad but not all?

I have done the battery issues. I had a four-month old battery I removed, tried an older battery and purchased a new 'good' quality battery.
All the lights stay on very strong for a long time even after all the trial starting of the car. So, I kinda eliminate the battery.
Thanks

[Oka]

Have you checked engine off and engine running battery voltages? Engine off voltage will tell you if battery is charged and the battery general condition - it should be about 12.5 volt or better. It will depend some on the temperature. Test only after sitting off for half hour or so. Measure directly at battery terminals and again at remote battery terminals under the hood. If there is a cable problem the voltage under hood will be lower.

Running voltage will tell you if the charging system is working. Charging voltage should be about 14.0 to 14.5 volts at the battery. If lower, the alternator, regulator etc. has a problem. If much higher, you have over charging and too high voltage will damage things.

I strongly believe the battery is in very good condition - had a 4-month old, used an older and purchased a brand new one.

It appears you me, you have a condition causing failure after everything gets to operating temperature. Have you confirmed again that the ETM is still working when the engine stalls? Checked the ETM for key on (but not started) buzz for about 10 seconds? I think this test still applies for 2003 model.

This ETM test could be achieved through VIDA; can it?

Have you checked electrical contacts at ETM cable? Not corroded or loose? Use a spare male connector or other part of the same thickness as the male terminals to push in and pull out of the female connector. ( I found the flat stainless stiffener from a wiper blade is the same size as some male terminals) If it is loose, carefully adjust the female connect to get better fit.

If problem is not here, you may need to do the same inspection of connectors at the ETM, TCM (should both be in the cooler box at right side in front of steering fluid) and the CEM (under the dash above hood release). These locations may be different on 2003 S60.
The theory here is that some wiring connector warms up, expands and you loose connectivity.

I would see if I can do this by myself.

By the way, you still have that '59 PV544? A project car or you've just let go? Those were the days when cars had character and very solid.
Thank you!

[volvolugnut]

Yes, I think VIDA could evaluate the ETM, but I am no expert on VIDA.

Yes, Still have the PV544. It is in the restore to running project list. Safely stored inside.

volvolugnut

[Oka]

Yes, I think VIDA could evaluate the ETM, but I am no expert on VIDA.

Yes, Still have the PV544. It is in the restore to running project list. Safely stored inside.

volvolugnut

Actually, my bad; I have a new ETM from XeMODex. It was pricey at $599 (US) plus $100 core and the next day service, I got it in Anchorage twenty-two hours later from Missassauga, Canada. It came in pre-programmed. It was really good to have my car drive and good as it does with the new ETM; faster and more especially, much more responsive for a 2001 XC.

Just Googled to take a peek of the inside of PV544. Wow, nice with straight forward clusters.
Those were the days. I remember my dad's Peugeot 403, way back then. Awesome!
Thanks

[volvolugnut]

The XeModex ETM is good value. They have a good reputation. I go I about 2 years ago. When I had a problem this year, they sent another at no charge.

I bought the PV544 not running several years ago. I have started to rebuild the carbs, but did not find rebuild kits. I think the engine is sound otherwise. They have always reminded me of 1940's Fords.
volvolugnut

[volvolugnut]

I go I about 2 years ago.

Meant to say: I got one about 2 years ago.

volvolugnut

[Oka]

I just scanned the car.
First off, the starting fume is really stinky. Don't know how to explain it, it's just nasty.
In the scans, any light issue would be from all the LEDs I put in the car (low voltage).
Every interior bulb now has LEDs. Any audio issue would be from not having connection
to the steering wheel controls after installing an after market stereo in the car.

Before I scanned, the car started for about ten seconds and turned off, then started this way:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ULaoj ... tYAGsk77PK

I have a 10/27/19 scan and another one showed, I believe the current (11/19/19) scan.
I just did a simple scan. I was just cold for some reason, though I was well wrapped up.
My body was not just too tired to take the warm 31F, and I have been tired already. Being
a very busy day for me. So, all I did were initial scanning.

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