Rear End Suspension Link Replacement 3516122 Topic is solved

[Red-Arrow]

I think I need to do this job as well so thanks for the write up. It sounds like a mission. The removal sound like a PITA.

Are both delta links identical? or side specific?

[Ozark Lee]

The delta link trailing arms themselves are side specific, the end links are the same on both sides.

...Lee

[cn90]

Thanks for a nice DIY,

Questions for everyone:

1. My #3 (pic below) rubber has some fine cracks; normal after 13 years and 110K; car rides fine.
For anyone who has replaced these parts, I am just wondering at what year/mileage yours failed.

2. Of the three (3) parts listed, how many should you replaced?
I listed the online Volvo prices as of March 2011 for reference.

PN 9181013/9181027 = Rear Axle Anchorage Mount
PN 3516122 = Rear Support Arm Link
PN 9157713/9157714 = Bearing Housing

VolvoDeltaLink.JPG (40.99 KiB) Viewed 20744 times

[Ozark Lee]

The only end links (#3) that have failed on mine were at around 170k on the '94. None of the other stuff has failed yet on any of the rest of my fleet which ranges in mileage between 120k and the '94 at 252k.

I think it largely depends on what chemicals they use to treat the streets in the winter. The '94 came from Indianapolis and it was the one that had the end links go bad.

I bought my son's '96 from Chicago and it looks like it had been driven through battery acid when you look at the undercarriage but so far the rear trailing arm components have held up on it.

...Lee

[cn90]

Thanks Lee for the update.

Re: Special Tool.
I just wonder if one can use the typical "Bearing Separator" ($42 at Harbor Freight) to remove the endlink.
One needs to improvise a bit, may or may not work, I am thinking one device clamp on the endlink "neck" and the other device clamp on the delta arm itself.

Brgseparator.jpg (29.4 KiB) Viewed 6011 times

[joegekko]

I just wonder if one can use the typical "Bearing Separator" ($42 at Harbor Freight) to remove the endlink.

It sure seems like it might if you could get it to grip. This is the actual tool referenced...

[Red-Arrow]

Would using a torch not melt the rubber and make pulling the end link out easy? or is that wishful thinking.

Also would it be ok to grease the new rubber in hopes of having it slip in with less effort?

[cn90]

The more I think about this End Link DIY, the more I think this is what should be done:

1. In my Brake Overhaul DIY, I mentioned that the brake hose running on top of the delta links is virtually impossible to change with the delta links in place.
Here is the Gen. 1 V70 Brake Overhaul DIY.

2. So I propose that by the time you need to replace the endlinks (PN 3516122), you probably have way over 150K or so, then it makes sense to also replace brake hose running on top of the delta links.

- Clamp the driver's side REAR hose so it does not leak, then disconnect it (or cut it if you replace it).
- Then drop the entire REAR suspension! This will make the job of changing the endlinks much easier.
- No need to remove the Rear delta links from the car, simply drop them straight down on a piece of wood (support the brake rotors with wood too).
- Then change the brake hose on top of the delta links.
- Also change the Axle Anchorage Mount (PN 3530202, 9181027).
- When reinstalling delta links, just make sure the brake hose is not kinked/stressed.

What do you guys think? Good or Bad idea?

[Krikkit]

I recently changed a trailing arm link, the information I found here was very helpful. I have a come-a-long but I don't have a suburban to anchor it to so I left the linkage attached to the frame and using a small chain on each end connected the puller between the trailing arm and trailer hitch mount on the opposite side of the car. The arm pulled off the linkage quite easily. Once out the linkage can be removed from the frame. I cleaned up the socket that the linkage fits into, put some silicon lube on the new linkage and tapped it in. Was a piece of cake. If I had all the gear ready, would take maybe an hour at most.

[LamboSE5]

Hey guys,

Thanks Lee, for this awesome post.
I have a question or two if you, or somebody could answer please? I'm trying to get the BAD side today

In this picture; when you heated (the crud) out of the arm/link, do you mean the area I marked yellow, or the area I marked red? Just use propane torch? Continue with heat until the rubber (or the plastic?) melts out?

Rear Endlink 1 colored.jpg

In this one; Are the bolts circled in blue here removed to lower that whole piece outlined in green? And, is the bolt circled in red the bolt with the "spline" at the top (must be pounded in, no socket or bit type?)

Rear Endlink 2 colored.jpg

Thanks for any help.
Can wait to cure this problem, man it's loud! And affecting a lot (braking, steering, my ears).