AC Cuts out after about 15 minutes....

[Chuck W]

This reminds me to actually fix the spacing on my '97 T5 AC compressor while things are apart for the manual swap.

I've been using the "wire mod" instead of bread clips or zip ties.

I made a "puller plate" when I did the same on the wife's car during the RN swap.

[abscate]

Nice access on the C30!

[JimBee]

Wonderful videos. Having been through this a couple of times, I found that both are helpful, the second one really nails the whole process, though I'll add a couple of comments. YouTubers sometimes gloss over sticky parts of projects.

Both could have emphasized a little more how tightly the clutch spline fits to the compressor shaft, so you need to be ready for that.

Unless I missed it you need to careful not to tighten the m5 screws too far in because they could hit the pulley bearing seal and possibly ruin it.

Make sure the clutch puller kit you use has the m10 center bolt with nut and washers (mine didn't have those) that will pull the clutch off the splined shaft, then just back out the factory bolt about 2/3 so when you tighten the puller bolt it can bear on the head of the m10 clutch mount bolt and not against the open threads on the end of the shaft. After the spline cracks free (you'll hear it) it's still tight but you can completely remove the clutch mount bolt and just use the puller bolt the rest of the way.

Since the clutch tolerance is so tiny to get an accurate final check on your gap, you'll need to tighten the factory bolt to spec. Setting up the vice grip with the feeler gauge for measuring the shims was clever. Still probably best to use a digital caliper.

[wizechatmgr]

On some of the compressors there is also a thermal breaker that engages if the compressor gets too hot... On the off chance you find the gap within spec.