'99 V70 non-turbo Lighting Problem, cold weather [ ignition switch electrical] Topic is solved

[MadeInJapan]

The key switch tumbler is not that difficult and is not horribly expensive either from what I remember. Several have posted about replacing this on other forums (but it may have been some time ago). I'll try to search it out and see if I can find a write-up and where/how much was paid for a replacement.

Edit: If found this rather quickly: http://www.volvospeed.com/Repair/ignit_switch.php

[Ozark Lee]

I'm surprised that our collective intellect (Honey, pour me another Scotch) didn't catch that sooner. It makes perfect sense.

The ignition switch is easy. Although this isn't your car exactly it is close enough. Download this:

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=8018

Once you unzip/unrar it bring up to:

steering column switches.pdf

Problem solved.

...Lee

[Rob3]

Fantastic!!

Thank you so much for this information. I'll post how it goes once I've confirmed that the Key Switch is bad and I've replaced it.

TTYL.

Rob3

[Rob3]

First let me apologise for being absent-minded. I didn't think about taking Pictures until the job was complete. Sorry.

I confirmed that the Key Switch was bad with the Connector removed from the Key Switch and an Ohmmeter on the Contact Points of the Switch.

I removed and disassembled the Switch. It has a cast Housing that I had to bend away from the Plastic Switch "Base". The "Base" would then separate from the Housing.

The Switches inside the "Base" have constant tension on them, causing them to always be connected. There is a Cam that is turned by the Key which holds the appropriate Switches Open in the appropriate Key Positions. When the Cam moves out of the way, the Switch closes making contact.

The Cam is lubricated with a Grease. In my case, the Switch section that was not working properly was at the bottom of the Key Switch. I assume that High Temperatures (we get above 115 Degrees Fahrenheit in Summer) caused Grease to flow down into that Switch. When it got cold enough, the Grease would hold the Switch Open. When the Grease got warm enough, it would be forced out of the way by the tension on the Switch and the Switch would make contact.

My fix was to take a Paper Towel and spray Contact Cleaner on the edge of the Paper Towel. I held the Switch Open and ran the Paper Towel between the Contacts several times - until no more Grease was visible on the Paper Towel. This required several sprays of Contact Cleaner on several Paper Towel edges.

Next, I wiped off all excess Grease I could find with a Q-tip. (Actually, several Q-tips.) Not the Grease that was on the edge of the Cam, just the Grease that was serving no function.

Lastly, I used a Contact Enhancer/Protectant called Deoxit (5%) made by Caig Labs. I sprayed a VERY small amount on each Switch in the "Base". I used Q-tips to remove any excess. I've had very good luck with this product.

The alignment of the Cam can be determined by looking inside the Housing for the area that has Grease for the Detent Ball Bearing. There is also a "Notch" on the Housing to use to line up the "Base".

I made sure that the Cam was fully inserted into the Base in the proper position to also align with the Grease in the Housing. I lined up the "Base" with the Housing and pressed them back together as I guided the Cam into position in the Housing. This was a little tricky, but it is doable.

I used a C-clamp to hold the Key Switch Assembly together while I laid it in a slightly opened Vise. I used a Screw Driver and a Hammer and tapped the cast Housing at the spots where it holds the two together. There was enough "good" metal to hold the Key Switch Assembly together reliably.

I reinstalled it and everthing works fine - cold or warm.

Thanks to All and I hope this helps others.

Rob3

[MadeInJapan]

Yes, I am surprised that I didn't think it was the key tumbler earlier either. Although I wish you had pictures, I have never-the-less pinned this one in the data base.
Thanks for sharing your fix!

[ADent]

I had this same problem on my 2001 V70 T5 (same switch as on the 99s) and a new electrical ignition switch fixed it.

Symptoms were the headlights would flicker and the colder it was the longer it would take to fully come on. At like 15F I could start the car and idle for 5 minutes before the lights would come on. And then I would start driving and the would start flickering again. Then on. Then flicker. When that cold it could take 10 minutes of driving before they would stay on for the rest of the trip.

Along with the headlights the heated seats, wipers, turn signals, etc would flicker in time. You could hear the relays clicking front and rear. The radio would come on first and the ECC would then come on, but the headlights at related would flicker.

Turns out there are two relays that shed load when you go to start the car. The headlights and all the other stuff I listed is on one of them and I guess the radio is on the other.

I finally trouble shot this by pulling those relays and messing around with them. On my car I think one feeds the other, so pulling one lets the other work.

Anyways a new electrical ignition switch fixed it all. And is really quick to do to and the part is reasonable.

PS I know this a really old thread, but not too many other reports of this problem with cold temps and lighting.

[abscate]

I had this same problem on my 2001 V70 T5 (same switch as on the 99s) and a new electrical ignition switch fixed it.

Symptoms were the headlights would flicker and the colder it was the longer it would take to fully come on. At like 15F I could start the car and idle for 5 minutes before the lights would come on. And then I would start driving and the would start flickering again. Then on. Then flicker. When that cold it could take 10 minutes of driving before they would stay on for the rest of the trip.

Along with the headlights the heated seats, wipers, turn signals, etc would flicker in time. You could hear the relays clicking front and rear. The radio would come on first and the ECC would then come on, but the headlights at related would flicker.

Turns out there are two relays that shed load when you go to start the car. The headlights and all the other stuff I listed is on one of them and I guess the radio is on the other.

I finally trouble shot this by pulling those relays and messing around with them. On my car I think one feeds the other, so pulling one lets the other work.

Anyways a new electrical ignition switch fixed it all. And is really quick to do to and the part is reasonable.

PS I know this a really old thread, but not too many other reports of this problem with cold temps and lighting.

Thanks for the addition

There is a ignition switch, electrical part parts break in the 1999 model year so order by VIN

We have two or three goid threads on disassembly and repair of this switch here