cleaning water pump mating surface

850oldschool · Post by **850oldschool** » 23 Nov 2020, 10:37

I find that a piece of 1/8" acrylic (plexiglas) ground to a knife edge works quite well and absolutely will not gouge the mating surface.

Post by **januwan** » 23 Nov 2020, 23:14

Thanks all for the good tips. I am surprised quite a few people use razor blades. There is so little room in there, it is very easy to make a mistake.
I forgot to install this plastic clip on the tensioner. Can it be installed after the safety pin is pulled out?

Post by **erikv11** » 24 Nov 2020, 08:12

Access is easier if you take off the serp belt tensioner, which is just two easy bolts.

Yes, the clip on the hydraulic tensioner shaft may be installed at the end.

Post by **volvolugnut** » 24 Nov 2020, 11:36

Have you removed the wheel and pulled the fender inner liner toward the front? This gives good access.
volovlugnut

Post by **januwan** » 24 Nov 2020, 17:46

Access is not a problem. I'm wondering if compressing tensioner a second time is a good idea.
This is the same tensioner I installed 30K miles ago (almost 6 years ago). I can remove two bolts, pull it out, compress again, and install with the plastic clip, this time. Will I be stressing it too much?

Can I push in the plastic clip on the tensioner shaft that is already installed and the pin is out?

Post by **erikv11** » 24 Nov 2020, 21:43

erikv11 wrote: 24 Nov 2020, 08:12 ...
Yes, the clip on the hydraulic tensioner shaft may be installed at the end.

You can compress the hydraulic tensioner a dozen times with no issue if you do it right - verrrrrrry slowly. Put it in a vice or a big C clamp, compress it a half turn every minute (or longer). Burt there is no need to remove the tensioner just for the clip. The clip is meant to go on at the end, after installation.

Post by **januwan** » 24 Nov 2020, 23:37

I don't know why I couldn't push it on the first time. After reading your email was able to install it.
Thanks