Subframe Bushing insert job

Post by **vtl** » 11 Mar 2022, 14:46

I have both new Volvo subframe bushings and these O-rings, btw.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 11 Mar 2022, 16:30

hard to argue with the price and labor difference. I watched a vid with a guy taking a drill to the insert to get it out...

lawrencium265 · Post by **lawrencium265** » 11 Mar 2022, 18:51

azureblue wrote: ↑11 Mar 2022, 16:30 hard to argue with the price and labor difference. I watched a vid with a guy taking a drill to the insert to get it out...

The Volvo OEM bushing outer shell is only plastic, which is probably what causes this issue. Using the drill is just a quick easy way to get it out if you don't care about destroying it. If you have the clearance then pressing the bushing out and in is trivial. The other issue is that you wouldn't want to only replace one bushing you would at least want to replace one on the other side as well, which is probably why Volvo came up with the o-ring fix. You could probably find something else like a piece of rubber hose to jam between the body and the subframe temporarily to see if it fixes the issue before you do any work or order parts. If you wanted to be really lazy you could grab some urethane roofing sealant and put a bead there and smear it in the gap, then you wouldn't have to drop the bolt out at all.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 11 Mar 2022, 20:40

" If you wanted to be really lazy you could grab some urethane roofing sealant and put a bead there and smear it in the gap, then you wouldn't have to drop the bolt out at all."

Like that stuff that is advertised on TV?

But a good idea, to make sure really is the problem..

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 20 Mar 2022, 12:04

I'm going to replace the rear ones first. A few questions-
I see on the vids the rear support bracket should be removed. So do I need to replace all 3 bolts per bracket? That is the 2 that mount the bracket to the body?
It looks like to do the job, the subframe is supported on one side, then the bracket is removed. - do one, move the support, do the other side.. I don't see anything tricky about it, but is there anything to be careful of?
Much Thanks

Post by **Blacklab467** » 20 Mar 2022, 23:30

No it won't drop very much, undo the right engine mount ( by the timing belt) and the upper engine mount. That will give you plenty of room to work. I wouldn't bother replacing the three bolts on the bracket but it is recommended to replace the main bolt that passes through the subframe, I believe the torque is something like 105 plus 120 degrees. Refer to my post on how to change these and pay attention to the orientation of the new bushings. Refer to my pictorial on this job, as I recall I included torque settings and a method to use to press them in.

Post by **abscate** » 21 Mar 2022, 04:07

Those big boy bolts are well into the deformation regime.

“ GoodnTight” isn’t good enough there. You could estimate them with 50 pounds force on a 2 foot breaker , then the 105 degree swing, but new bolts are needed from Volvo

Part 98511
You will spend 10x the $17 they cost from FCp if you reuse them in inspection protocol , and 100x-1000x more if they come loose

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... wE#fitment

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 21 Mar 2022, 07:44

Sorry for dragging this on. Trying to find time to get it done is 3/4 of the job.

"I have both new Volvo subframe bushings and these O-rings, btw."
What is the advantage of having both? I have no problem with putting them O rings in, just want to know..

I watched several vids and they all are adamant about proper tightening procedure. This is definitely a "exactly by the book" job..

And I'm trying t find the parts on Amazon, so i can use the MVS link

Post by **vtl** » 21 Mar 2022, 08:43

azureblue wrote: ↑21 Mar 2022, 07:44 What is the advantage of having both? I have no problem with putting them O rings in, just want to know..

They relief some stress from the rubber leap of the bushings on road imperfection impact. When the rubber is fully worn, the plastic shell of the bushing makes contact with the body and increases noise transfer severely.

azureblue · Post by **azureblue** » 22 Mar 2022, 08:22

Every vid I have seen of the job is done with the car on a lift. I wish I had one, so it will done on the ground. I see there is enough clearance under the car to remove the bracket without having the wheels off the ground - and if I drive the car on top of a 2 x 6 board, I think I can reach under and remove the bracket. It looks to me like if I lifted the car just enough to take the weight off the wheels, the job is doable. IOW, let the wheels support the weight of the subframe...

Subframe Bushing insert job

Re: Subframe Bushing insert job