Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

[precopster]

Well for around 5 minutes more work you could have done a GREAT repair and saved your money.
I don't know XeModex's policy regarding tampered return casings, though you shoild be ok.

I did the same thing on 3 units now and I regret not knowing about the voltage calibration. The one in my 2000 V70 is working perfectly, however the unit was giving specific TPS codes, ETS light and limp home. I now repair these in my spare time through an eBay ad and have had at least 10 units apart by now.

Keep us posted.

[JosephVelder]

it starts and runs great but doesn't idle, it surges at idle so yeah, should have done the voltage check. it just seemed like alot of putting the car together and taking it apart again repeatedly and my hands are still aching from scrapes and cuts of just going through it one time.
so how do the ones you repair and sell differ from xemodex's?

[precopster]

No doubt you have a turbo
To test voltages simply scrape back the putty on just the 3 terminal side before removing the sensor, plug back into the loom and measure across terminal 1 & 3 with ignition on.

XeModex reflash the unit with latest software (which requires download subscriptions & charges for each unit) and change out the shaft bearings. They may have worked out a way to reflash without requiring Volvo corporate input as there are only around 10 variations to the startup software.

[JosephVelder]

yup a 2001 v70 turbo wagon, regardless of the headaches I've had with this car I freakin still LOVE it. After the xemodex I'll be into it for about $5k and I still think it is well worth it.
Is it too late to adjust the voltage on this thing? shouldn't all turbo v70's have the same voltage at the pins when all is said and done?

[precopster]

Voltage is calibrated by specific reload. Too late to know what yours was once the shaft is cut you can't put the old one back in. Yucka did a S80T6 at 1.4V and I did the same type of car's ETM last week at 1.48V That's a lot of variation.

You're speaking as though it already didn't work. Have you tried it yet? Without Vida/Dice you're pretty much doing a Stevie Wonder on it..... you can't see the outcome.

[RMSDave]

Mine measured 1.379 originally and with the Sacer installed I'm at 1.30v. Is that too low?

[RuiG]

Hello,

I have a misfire code in cylinder nº3 , changed the coil, clean sparks and today I´m planning to do a compression test .
I´ll be in touch.
Thanks.

[precopster]

Mine measured 1.379 originally and with the Sacer installed I'm at 1.30v. Is that too low?

That's a 6% variation. You might be ok but if your unit calls up codes similar to Yucka's (take a look at his post earlier in this thread) you'll know where the problem lies. This Sacer swap really requires an Autel EU702 or a Vida/Dice to see codes if they occur.

[RMSDave]

Thanks. I did adjust it to 1.39 volts and started the car; the limp home mode condition is still there. Also replaced: Oil separator and hoses, engine management relay, MAF sensor (from Advance Auto Parts). I've since read about the V70 and aftermarket MAF sensors, and unplugged it for a time. Rougher idle, and still seems to be in limp home mode. In neutral, it revs up to between 2000-2800 RPMs. Getting it up to temp, four on/off cycles and driving it didn't change anything. Any ideas?

[precopster]

Read codes and get back. You'll need a reader that converts codes to a Volvo standards. Autel EU702 or Vida/Dice.

Quite afew ETMs out there with terminal codes that aren't sensor related. You may have a unit that has been subjected to over voltage. Throwing new parts is not a good way to diagnose.

What type of car is this?