2000 S70 T5 Stalled on freeway

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 18 Jan 2016, 16:36

Greetings. Got my timing belt on !!!. Didn't have to "muscle" it to much after I loosened tensioner a little. I had to move exhaust cam a notch to get teeth and belt to align. Just want to know if that was good or bad ?. I started looping belt intake then exhaust cam. Took about 15 minutes. Intake mark is on point. Exhaust mark is 2 teeth toward intake. Is this solved by removing belt and replacing back on or could exhaust cam off mark ? Thoughts respected.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 18 Jan 2016, 17:40

Help. I see the reason for notches being off. Exhaust cam moved doing install of cam cover about a 1/4 inch. Damn. The cams or crank have not been rotated. Did I just bend my valves by tightening the cover down ? Crank is aligned to mark. Can this be corrected by removing cover and reseting cams? Or have I just did the "Dumb Dumb " mistake of the week ? If I messed this up and have to redo valves, I give up. Thoughts respected.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 18 Jan 2016, 18:21

After removing belt exhaust is one notch toward intake. If correct it should be 3 notches toward firewall ? Dang it ! I don't think I'll be getting a goodnight sleep.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 19 Jan 2016, 19:21

Greetings. Well it looks like I'll have to remove the cam cover and try this again. Front intake seal didn't seal in far enough and rear seal tilted. Can't see exhaust seal so I'll lean toward it not seating correctly also. Can't align exhaust cam in rear with screwdriver because it will not rotate. Tilted rear seal may also the reason. May have over tighten. Luckily I have spare cover. I'll remove cover and remove sealer and try again.
Without the cam locking tool, is there a DIY way to install cams and cover safely without disrupting seal alignment ?

Post by **precopster** » 20 Jan 2016, 05:19

Squashing seals down with the cover is never going to be an accurate way to align the seals.

I used to use a seal fitting tool but they too can skew the seal. In the end I just tap tap tap the seal in on various angles until it gets to where I think it should be.

With belt fitment I start from the crank working anti clockwise and ensurimg zero slack in the belt then go up to the pulley then intake cam and then exhaust cam. Finally snake it around WP and finally the tensioner while the belt is riding on the outer extremities of all of these items.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 24 Jan 2016, 07:47

Greetings Update . Cams installed and aligned to marks. Crank aligned to mark. Belt installed. The problem is the engine does not rotate one full revolution. It turns so far and stops. I didn't try to force it to avoid damage. Wife helped watch belt as I turned from under the car. She says the belt stopped moving when the tensioner indicator moved toward the firewall .
Should the tensioner be tight or loose ? Does it need to be "preset" and then "final " set after belt installation ? What could be stopping the engine from rotating if all marks are dead centered ? I'll reset cams and crank and give it one more try.
I'm about ready to contract this headache of a car to my indy shop to resolve this problem. Thoughts and opinions respected.

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Post by **precopster** » 24 Jan 2016, 10:55

Can you throw up some photos of where the cams rest when crank mark is on?

What's this about the exhaust mark needing to be 3 notches toward the firewall?

All cams should be at 12 o clock on the marks and will stay like this after one or more revolutions.

The tensioner is set according to temperature by the allen key. Middle setting of the indicator lever is at 20deg C.

Movement of the indicator is normal when under load to an extent however if valve to piston contact occurs during hand rotation the indicator will snap forward because of excessive load.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 24 Jan 2016, 12:01

Thanks for reply. Three notches toward firewall was info I read when the timing is set in the rear of cam. After engine rotation I would adjust VVT back to timing mark. So, when installing belt , the tensioner should be set for "shop temperature" also called ambient temp ?
I can't post pics due to my internet tech ( my son ) is at work. So, if I am getting this right, I install belt and tensioner. Adjust tensioner toward radiator with allen wrench . Tighten. Once this is done , the indicator will retract back and hopefully land in the "window" ? If it lands in the window., I can rotate engine . Then check for indicator to return or stay in window ? I think my mistake was not setting the tensioner for temp. Thinking that was set after belt install and timing marks matching.
Mike, thanks for your help. This is my first time dealing with a Volvo on this level. I'll put my sledgehammer back in the shed , and give it another try.

Post by **precopster** » 24 Jan 2016, 14:20

I don't quite understand your explanation of the timing setup. In my own case I used these videos to.fully understand the procedure:

Watch "CVVT Removal And Setup" on YouTube

Watch "How To install Replace Engine Timing Belt Volvo L5 2.4L" on YouTube

I hope you can use them to gain an understanding.

clifford06 · Post by **clifford06** » 24 Jan 2016, 15:29

Greetings . Thanks Mike. Redid belt and adjusted tensioner so indicator is set center or middle of tensioner . Rotated two revolutions and marks lined up. HAPPY HAPPY JOY JOY !
Indicator moved toward firewall. Not centered. Do I need to preload first

2000 S70 T5 Stalled on freeway

Re: 2000 S70 T5 Stalled on freeway