1995 850se
Because of the way I use the car, I guess that I pretty much put up with the cars problem whilst I gradually sorted them, and the trouble with some faults are that it could be any one of several expensive parts.
The car was running rich for a while, and recently I fixed that by cleaning the mass air flow sensor/throttle butterfly and other parts.
I also found a poor fitting connection at the little black box attached to the engine cooling fan surround (next to the fan relays).
Whilst the car has been not starting after getting petrol/gas for a while, over the last two weeks it has been cutting out "on the run" and could be dangerous.
So yesterday, having thought long and hard about what I have read on ALL the web sites, I drove the car around and back home and waited for about 5/10 until I could go out to the car and it would not start.
With the bonnet up and having failed to start, I checked if there was fuel in the fuel line, via the testing valve, yes fuel did flow out so there was pressure (but I do not know what pressure)
Next I turned the ignition on and off loads of times and listened to whether the fuel pump was working or not.
It did not take that long before I turned the key and the fuel pump failed the run up, at this point I tried to start the car and it failed to start.
Turned the ingition on and off until the fuel pump "run up" and the car started.
Next I removed the outer cover from the fuel relay and cleaned between the contact points, there was some deposits of carbon like subtance between the points.
Pluged in the relay and drove the car around for a hour or so here and there and returned home, done mixed driving and several stop starts - no problems,
Up with the bonnet, waited for 5/10 mins and tried to start the car, keeped going back until the car failed to start, when the car failed to start I could hear that the fuel pump had not run up,
Removed the relay cover again and watched the contacts as I turned the ignition on and off, sometimes the contacts would hold in and the pump would run up fine so I could start the car, and others the contacts would close but drop out straight away and the pump would not run up and the car
would fail to start.
I went to our Volvo main delear to purchace a new relay but asked to speak to the service manager first, I explained the fault to him and all that I had done, He then went off and came back with two "fitters" who listened to what I had done, They did agree with me that it did seem like the relay could well be the cause and stated that they change "quite a few relays".
I have plugged in my
Official Engine Stalling Thread
This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database »
Secondary Air Injection System Diagram
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Guest
Steve, hah! cool name ya got there. 
Good Luck and I hope the cost is minimized through conscientious troubleshooting by you and "compassionate" vs. money-making pros.
Good Luck and I hope the cost is minimized through conscientious troubleshooting by you and "compassionate" vs. money-making pros.-
Mace2
Gonna have to jump on the 'my Volvo 850 stalls on me' bandwagon here.
For the past couple of weeks I've been having my '93 850 stall on me pretty much anytime I'm slowing down or downshifting. Typically if coming to a red light or something, if I'm in 3rd or so, I used to have no problem just using the brake until about 1000 rpms or so, at which point I'd use the clutch, slip it into neutral and come to a complete stop. No problem. However, lately when I've done that, the car will just stall on me. It's getting to a point where I'm dreading going into a turn because it's almost inevitable that it'll stall and I'll have to crank the hell out of the wheel so not to hit anyone, ya know? It'll start up just fine but still. Thought it may just be me not knowing how to operate a manual (which is kinda true). But even when I'm still moving and I just slip it into neutral for barely like 10 feet, it'll stall again. That can't be a good sign.
Anyone had something like that happen? Or do I just need to learn how to drive properly?
For the past couple of weeks I've been having my '93 850 stall on me pretty much anytime I'm slowing down or downshifting. Typically if coming to a red light or something, if I'm in 3rd or so, I used to have no problem just using the brake until about 1000 rpms or so, at which point I'd use the clutch, slip it into neutral and come to a complete stop. No problem. However, lately when I've done that, the car will just stall on me. It's getting to a point where I'm dreading going into a turn because it's almost inevitable that it'll stall and I'll have to crank the hell out of the wheel so not to hit anyone, ya know? It'll start up just fine but still. Thought it may just be me not knowing how to operate a manual (which is kinda true). But even when I'm still moving and I just slip it into neutral for barely like 10 feet, it'll stall again. That can't be a good sign.
Anyone had something like that happen? Or do I just need to learn how to drive properly?
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Mace2
Oh yeah, if I'm at a dead stop it'll idle with no problem. It's only if I'm moving for more then like 5 feet in neutral that it cuts out.
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Guest
I'd start here:
"5) IF STALLS WHILE DECELERATING, can almost gaurantee it's a dirty TB/ETM (or "bad" ETM, very expensive to replace so try removing and cleaning yourself or take it to dealer, say this defect is getting well known now and insist they clean it for you)."
And then go down the list on the previous page of this thread.
"5) IF STALLS WHILE DECELERATING, can almost gaurantee it's a dirty TB/ETM (or "bad" ETM, very expensive to replace so try removing and cleaning yourself or take it to dealer, say this defect is getting well known now and insist they clean it for you)."
And then go down the list on the previous page of this thread.
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Guest
Guess I should have gone back a page or so, huh? Thanks though. Yeah I'll have to take it in considering checking the oil/tire pressure is unfortunately the extent of my car skills. Hope it works considering it's getting VERY embarressing to stall at every red light. Like this morning for example, I must have hit about 7-8 lights before hitting the freeway........car died on 6 of 'em 
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bills '94 850
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Howdy everyone. It was me who asked Matthew to sticky this post, and since then I've had the stalling problem fixed. (I signed in as a guest with a little short story a good while back, so I guess a few have missed it.)
My mechanic obtained an electrical map of the car and then wired up all of the relays in the car with a diode and little light (all of the lights were put back in the car so you could see them while driving) to find which electrical component was faulty. Evidently, the inside of the car was like a christmas tree! Anyway, the point of that excercise was to find which light went out when it stalled. No power in the circuit will cause the light to go out. From there, it was easily traced to the faulty component. He kept the car for a few weeks to monitor the results and finally hit pay dirt.
He was just as confused as I was in the beginning and instead of taking a guess at what was wrong, and replacing several parts, he persisted until he found the root of the problem. At the end of the day, all he charged me was $99.oo for the part, and nothing else. No labour, no funny business. Now that's a good mechanic. The problem was a fuel relay, but not the one which is visible near the radiator. I didn't know there were 3 of them, did you?
Hope that helps you all.
Bill
My mechanic obtained an electrical map of the car and then wired up all of the relays in the car with a diode and little light (all of the lights were put back in the car so you could see them while driving) to find which electrical component was faulty. Evidently, the inside of the car was like a christmas tree! Anyway, the point of that excercise was to find which light went out when it stalled. No power in the circuit will cause the light to go out. From there, it was easily traced to the faulty component. He kept the car for a few weeks to monitor the results and finally hit pay dirt.
He was just as confused as I was in the beginning and instead of taking a guess at what was wrong, and replacing several parts, he persisted until he found the root of the problem. At the end of the day, all he charged me was $99.oo for the part, and nothing else. No labour, no funny business. Now that's a good mechanic. The problem was a fuel relay, but not the one which is visible near the radiator. I didn't know there were 3 of them, did you?
Hope that helps you all.
Bill
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Other Guest
Well since misery loves company, I have to report on day 100 after the quickie ETM cleaning I've been reporting on every Friday for a while now, I saw the Christmas tree dashboard lights flicker briefly once on my way into work today, but that's all. I'll see how it goes on the way home tonight. If 100 days between cleanings works for me I'll just keep doing that as I can put that time and effort into it.Anonymous wrote:Guess I should have gone back a page or so, huh? Thanks though. Yeah I'll have to take it in considering checking the oil/tire pressure is unfortunately the extent of my car skills. Hope it works considering it's getting VERY embarressing to stall at every red light. Like this morning for example, I must have hit about 7-8 lights before hitting the freeway........car died on 6 of 'em
bills'94850 electrical troubleshooting to solve his problem is interesting. I wonder if anyone has compiled stats on how much of each cause of stalling it's been (elec. fault, fuel pump relay, fuel pump, ETM, CPS, etc.)?
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Guest
Day 103 here after 2nd quickie cleaning (w/o removing TB from engine). Still OK except for one dashboard light flicker that didn't require a restart on Wed.
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