What did you do to your Volvo today? Topic is solved

[abscate]

I did the SAS bypass on the ECM. I've left the whole pump assembly in place. Not sure I need to do anything with it, perhaps disconnect the relay.

That’s very pro, neat work done there.

[DennisCA]

Thanks, today I fixed the parking brake line. Well temporarily anyway. I hope it lasts a while. The old tire had worn through the lining and the metal was exposed.

I cleaned it up using rags, WD40 and compressed air. Then I wiped down the cable with acetone, put grease over the exposed metal.

Then I wound it with electrical tape very tightly. Then I wound the electrical tape with vulcanizing tape to prevent it from unwrapping itself.

Then I fitted a piece of garden hose I cut up over it and wound that with electrical tape and vulcanizing tape. Then finally a bunch of zip ties around it. I had to use zip ties to also pull it inwards or it contacted the tire. I hope this holds until summer.

[scot850]

There should be a plastic loop with holes in ether end that allows you to rivet the cable to the suspension arm. If you look carefully in your picture above, there is a slight outward dimple in line with the shock absorber about half way down. It looks like the remains of the old rivet.
Sand it lever with the surface and punch into the arm or drill it out.

Neil.

[foggydogg]

Thanks, today I fixed the parking brake line. Well temporarily anyway. I hope it lasts a while. The old tire had worn through the lining and the metal was exposed.

I cleaned it up using rags, WD40 and compressed air. Then I wiped down the cable with acetone, put grease over the exposed metal.

Then I wound it with electrical tape very tightly. Then I wound the electrical tape with vulcanizing tape to prevent it from unwrapping itself.

Then I fitted a piece of garden hose I cut up over it and wound that with electrical tape and vulcanizing tape. Then finally a bunch of zip ties around it. I had to use zip ties to also pull it inwards or it contacted the tire. I hope this holds until summer.

That would pass a 150psi pressure test. You would get a passing grade on that section of a Navy Shipboard Damage Control course.

[jsrnsis]

Turbo coolant line, what a pain in the butt silicone hoses are. Almost made me wish I picked up the Volvo OEM rubber hose for $100 before they went on backorder.
This one is from IPD, and seems a little long even though it should be the right size for a 98, a 99 would require trimming.

[scot850]

Did you heat the ends in hot water first?

Neil.

[jsrnsis]

Did you heat the ends in hot water first?

Neil.

Yes I did! I boiled the hose as suggested in other threads, sanded and steel wooled the gunk off the pipes, and placed a dab of dish soap on the pipes. It's on there, just a bit twisted. The Volvo OEM hose was much easier on the other car.

The smaller side, the pipe that is attached to the turbo, did move on me under the force of installing the silicone hose. Does this mean the banjo bolt needs to be tightened?

I had pictures of the old hose, and absolutely scary sight when I was under the car at how bloated and soft it was, I think I actually kept the hose itself it was so comical.

[scot850]

You can try and see if the banjo is a little loose. Don't go all Tarzan on it. Just check it is not loose.

You have highlighted why I don't like silicon hoses. In a pinch I'd use them but not my first choice.

Neil.

[DennisCA]

I've actually used fuel lines in places.

[jsrnsis]

You can try and see if the banjo is a little loose. Don't go all Tarzan on it. Just check it is not loose.

You have highlighted why I don't like silicon hoses. In a pinch I'd use them but not my first choice.

Neil.

Unfortunately for people with pre-99 cars, the options are silicone hoses or aftermarket rubber hoses. This would not be the place I'd like to roll the dice with Uro rubber hoses, especially when I've had their evap hoses split and crack after a few months.

Also found out the exhaust studs are non-magnetic, just a little tidbit. The nuts and washers are still magnetic though.

Trying to clean the block off before putting the head back on, and there is a lot of staining that isn't being removed by acetone, but as long as I can't catch it on my fingernail, I should be good, right? I went through my pictures for the last head I did but didn't take any without the head gasket on.

Also while showing my dad the gaps between each cylinder that are shimmed by people chasing higher performance, I noticed a lot of buildup that kept the feeler gauge from passing through. I ran the gauge back and forth along with a razor blade and seemed to have cleared it out, but it seemed like it had been some type of stop-leak, it was much harder than dried coolant residue.

I've actually used fuel lines in places.

This is an odd application because one side of the hose is noticeably larger than the other side