Instructions w/pics when Changing Timing belt/waterpump/tens

[xHeart]

PB is great stuff but you shoud give it days to work its magic, not hours. Especially on O2 sensors! Plan ahead!

...and patience, taking water when frustrated.

[tkuper]

Howdy,
I've a 2004 xc70 turbo and I'm changing the timing belt. Trouble is, no matter how many times I rotate the crank pulley, the cam pulleys do not end up at the top. If I get the front cam marking straight up the rear cam pulley is about 8 teeth short of the top. And that is not even taking into account the crank pulley markings. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[mecheng]

I found out my dad only changed his timing belt on his 97 glt turbo at 120,000km
It has only 160,000km on it now and drives amazing. Should I change any of the timing belt components
I inspected everything and there is no grease purge from the pulleys, no leaks from water pump, no noises

I understand the water pump can last two timing belt changes. Any advice?

[Ozark Lee]

You should be OK until the next scheduled change. I change everything on every other belt change.

...Lee

[xHeart]

I found out my dad only changed his timing belt on his 97 glt turbo at 120,000km
It has only 160,000km on it now and drives amazing. Should I change any of the timing belt components
I inspected everything and there is no grease purge from the pulleys, no leaks from water pump, no noises

I understand the water pump can last two timing belt changes. Any advice?

As Lee says, change all components of timing belt at each occurrence...some shops don't.
You may want to confirm with dad, what make?
Else, I would change it for good housekeeping at this time.

[mecheng]

I'm asking because I read a lot of doom and gloom stories about how either the tensioner or idlers fail (I can't remember which one) and it destroys the timing belt. I used to work at a company that made idler pulleys and the main cause of bearing failure was seal failure causing the grease to purge from the bearings. This happened gradually and there was plenty of warning in the form of noise. Heat and salt spray was the number 1 cause. The temperatures are moderate where I live and salt is not an issue in the timing belt area.

Not sure about how the hydraulic tensioner fails and if this causes belts to shred? I greased the seals on the idlers and they looked like they were in good condition.


Ozark: so on every other TB change you only change the belt?


xHeart: he went to the dealer and the mechanic told him that they only change the idlers and tensioner if they are making noise so he listened to them. He doesn't browse forums and the like. He bought a Volvo timing belt and aux belt and did it himself and made a tensioner tool.

[erikv11]

I change the rollers every time, but change the hydraulic tensioner every other time (every second belt) and the water pump every third belt or when it weeps (I have never had one weep on me). Mechanical tensioner has a roller in it, so every time.

In the doom and gloom stories it is a pulley that fails. The hydraulic tensioner almost never fails, but swapping it every other time is good insurance IMHO.

[songzunhuang]

Thanks so much for this thread. I had the 25 steps printed out and I marked them off as I went through my timing belt and water pump change this past week. I also discovered a broken engine mount. Taking that out actually freed up some space for me to work. There's been lots of info and pictures on this thread and I thought I would add a few of my observations.

I was all worried about my timing marks but there was no need. They were very clear, in fact there were white marks in addition to the factory stamps in the cam gear. This was odd as I didn't think my belt had ever been changed.

As for the crank marks, I had two to go by. There was a line on the crank pulley that lined up with the belt when the timing was correct. It was very clean in my engine and the mark was easy to see.

Also on the crank gear itself, I had two notched teeth and then a mark on the engine block that sat in between the notched teeth. Again, super easy to see. There was no need to worry.

LowerMark2.png (556.62 KiB) Viewed 1660 times

I had read that the timing belt cover around the crank was hard to get to. After jacking up my car, I could see them clear as day. Here's a picture of the 2 bolts on the right of the crank.

Belt Guard Bolts.png (454.11 KiB) Viewed 1660 times

As mentioned, my engine mount was good and broke. I replaced it and it gave me additional working space. You can see the old mount on the left here. It was basically resting on the frame as the rubber had broken clean through.

Having the mount out of the way and jacking the engine up a bit gave me a bit more room to work the belt out. I didn't have much trouble at all. In this picture I am getting at the lower water pump bolts with my socket. You can also see the 2 holes for the bolts for the engine mount just below the crank to the left.

Engine Mount Gone.png (553.33 KiB) Viewed 1660 times

As for the T45 tool to remove the tensioner pulley, I simply wedged a piece of wood in there and then used a 8mm open end wrench to get the bolt off with no slippage. I saw that trick somewhere on this forum.

T45 Tool.png (529.62 KiB) Viewed 1660 times

Finally, when I replaced my water pump the gasket came off pretty cleanly with the pump. Putting the new gasket on was easy. There are 2 locator pins on the block. I just hung the gasket off of those pins when I put the new pump on. It was simplicity itself!

WPonEngine.png (565.7 KiB) Viewed 1660 times

So that was my experience. With the engine mount, it took me about 5.5 hours to finish the job. I only had one annoying event and that was the 10mm bolts for the timing belt guard on the engine block. I thought I had rounded the bolt head until I got at the bolt from another angle. Thank goodness it was fine.

In any case, I am super grateful for all the help and pictures on this forum. Thanks.

[jreed]

Great photos! What did you use to clean off the mating surfaces at the waterpump?

[songzunhuang]

I just used 800 grit sandpaper. There wasn't a lot to clean off for me. The gasket mostly stick to the water pump itself. I didn't have to scrape with a razor or any of that. The water pump was way easier than I expected.

About the only "bad" thing was a little plastic protrusion just above the crank. While wrenching I broke that off. It's part of the lower timing belt cover, the part that sits against the engine. After some head scratching, I decided it's not critical.