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The I Worked on My Car Today Thread

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » 2000 V70 Tailgate Trim Rattle Fix
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matthew1
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Re: The I Worked on My Car Today Thread

Post by matthew1 »

Sometimes you have to go Rambo on these things.
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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mikealder
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Year and Model: V70 2000
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Post by mikealder »

Nice easy job and certainly stops the rattles from the rear of the car and getting clouted on the back of the head when you lift the tailgate, a neat little packet of plastic trim clips, pre-drilled metal plates and some self tapping screws.

First off are the small black plastic clips that fit to the tailgate trim, these components simply slide in to the receptacle that is bonded to the tailgate trim panel:

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Position the clip into the cut out on the plastic receptacle and push it in to position:

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A pair of pliers comes in handy to squeeze the clip in to position and is better than trying to apply force by hand as there is a chance you will break the new clip by applying force to the wrong part of the clip when using your hands:

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Repeat this process until all four clips are secured in to the receptacles, they should look like this once fully home:

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Next you need to fit the four black plastic trip clips to the cut-outs located in the upper portion of the tailgate, you can see one of the slots in this picture:

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These clips simply push in to position, don't apply too much force or they will snap but they need to be pushed fully home in to their slots:

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Back to the tailgate trim sat on the table, the main issue is the brittle plastic which breaks leaving larger than desired holes so the upper trim retaining clips have nothing to bite against:

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Position one of the metal plates across the damaged hole:

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Use a small drill/ Dremel to pop a pilot hole in to the plastic for the self tapping screw, make sure the metal plate is tight against the plastic trim panel and not sat on the foam rubber, you might have to move the foam rubber seal out of the way for this:

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Screw one of the self tapping screws in to the plastic through the metal plate then bend both sides of the metal plate down by hand, the metal is quite thin and isn't difficult to press in to the required shape by hand:

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Drill pilot holes for the other two self tapping screws and secure the metal plate in to position fully:

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Fit the metal plates to all for attachment points then attach it to the car, no more rattles and well worth the 30 minutes it took to repair the tailgate trim, well worth considering if yours has a rattle or is falling off, got mine from Here costs under $18 - Mike

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

Mike, nice! I'll copy that into its own topic and add to the Repair Database.

Here's a closeup of one of the two (original!) rear amber turn bulbs I replaced:
one of the two (original!) rear amber turn bulbs in my '97 850
one of the two (original!) rear amber turn bulbs in my '97 850
signal-bulb-amber-burned.jpg (192.11 KiB) Viewed 1984 times
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1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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whoa
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Post by whoa »

Thanks, Mike. My car has had that kit installed for years. The trim still kept coming off. Screws and washers, two drill holes, $0.50.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon

whoa
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Post by whoa »

Put in new front brake hoses and flushed the brake fluid. No apparent effect on braking---still the same sorta-power braking---but worth it for putting my mind more at ease descending Old Priest Grade from Yosemite.
1996 850 Turbo Wagon

mikealder
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Year and Model: V70 2000
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Post by mikealder »

Simple little jobs for the day, oil change and filter Fully Synth 5/30 Q8 then I took the wheels off for there annual clean to get rid of the brake dust from the inside surfaces and re-apply copper-slip to the hubs to aid wheel removal at a future date.

Down side is the brake rotors are down to the limit so the wheels will be off the car again next weekend but at least this means the larger calliper carriers can be fitted so the brake diameter will increase - Mike

Dirk1966
Posts: 37
Joined: 8 January 2013
Year and Model: V70 2.4 D5 2004
Location: Angus, Scotland

Post by Dirk1966 »

Got a 98 V70 AWD.
I had a very loud clunk noise when reversing and turning . I suspected the VC but the garage told me that i might be the e-brakes biting. Took the rear wheels of and unwound the e-brakes a bit and tested it and no more loud clonk.

taupehat
Posts: 96
Joined: 29 April 2013
Year and Model: V70, 1998
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Post by taupehat »

Replaced the rear cam seals. This will happen when you add a quart of Marvell Oil to an already full crankcase.

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

^ Ooof! I overfilled yesterday, and had to siphon off from the dipstick tube. Luckily I was at my dad's, and he had a 1970s (I remember messing around with it as a young kid) siphon with a very narrow end, long enough to get way down into the crankcase. Ask me what Penzoil Synthetic 10-30 tastes like.
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. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a cut!

1998 V70, no dash lights on

1997 850 T5 [gone] w/ MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace

2004 V70 R [gone]

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