Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Post by **precopster** » 25 May 2013, 20:36

I don't really get involved with removing them as I just deal with the ETMs that get sent to me.

This video I shot shows the bracket at the 10 minute mark:

max81 · Post by **max81** » 29 May 2013, 02:46

Hello everybody. I have been going through a time of suffering with my 2001 C70 2.3 liter turbo engine( white label original ETM, latest software on the car) (130k miles)
In the last 16 months I have had my share of repairs. Last summer the transmission acted up.
Shaking and vibrating from 1-2 and 2-3 and rough garage shifts.
Volvo mechanic around the corner printed out only transmission codes. So I believed the tranny had issues. I had researched alot and found Howard's Volvo side. To save the transmission I did two flushes with T-IV and built in a remanufactured valvebody. I have a VIDA Dice. Now I was trying to get the tranny into adaption mode but it directly went into limp mode.
VIDA shoots out these codes.
CDM-00A D+ ( I guess that was caused by the car sitting to long and VIDA draining the battery)
ECM-530D Malfunction indicator lamp TCM faulty signal
ECM-902A Throttle unit communication signal too low
ECM 903C Reconfiguration emission system information
EMC-904D ETS warning lamp information
ECM-917 F Accelerator pedal position-faulty signal
ECM-9190 Throttle positon-fault current
ECM91A7 throttle position faulty control
ECM91F0 Throttle positition faulty current
ETM
IMM
TCM-002 Gear 5 incorrect gear ratio
I ran a swap test of the ETM and the the two sensors were off but only up to 3 degrees.
I talked to Howard and we decided the ETM needs to be fixed.
Built out the ETM and was already set on getting a repair service.
Since taking out the ETM was so easy I decided to try the repair on my own.
I have read all 10 pages of this thread. Right now I'm at the point that the ETM is cleaned and the epoxy is off at the right areas( See pictures)

: Cleaned Throttle body

: Removed epoxy. All contections still untouched. Senors still on the ETM.

Now here are my questions:
Shall I simply replug the ETM and put key in position II to measure voltages?
With pin 1-3 do you guys mean the 3 pins that I just freed from the epoxy on one side?
If this is aluminum shall I use this
http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/P ... r-500.aspx to get better flux?
I actually don't have to touch the 5 pin side? I simply have to solder at position 2 that's all?!
No messing with the Sensor at the 5 pin side?
Most importantly: I know that I should cut the 3 pins(basically disconnecting the old sensor from the ETM, right?) and I look at the pics. Where exactly are you guys cutting? I have a Dremmel.
Please don't answer with: "look at the pics". I have been looking

Thank you for all your support.
BTW: the sensor should arrive tomorrow.
Some people like Jack recommend to make test drives till they fill everything with Epoxy.
Which Epoxy are you guys using?
It took me like 3-4 hours to get this PITA out. Is that really what you suggest to do?
How can I be sure that these codes above are not from an internal ETM flaw?
Thank you for this thread and all the work you have put into this.
I hope that you guys can give some insight.
If you tell me that I should not even attempt the repair then I will sell the sensor again. Simple as that.

Best regards from Phoenix!

Max

Post by **precopster** » 29 May 2013, 03:05

See attached Pic. I don't believe a sensor will fix your throttle. There are no throttle position codes such as 9150 or 9160

Look at my post on 6th April 2012 in this thread

Pics show all you need.

If you require video tutorials to remove an ETM on a 5 cylinder this page may help:

http://precisioncarmodules.com/services/video_tutorials

Post by **precopster** » 29 May 2013, 03:25

To max81. For your vehicle you can use a P2 series Volvo turbo ETM from a 5 cylinder. Strange as it seems the programming is compatible. Save your sensor for the newer ETM as you'll need it one day.

Scan the replacement ETM while it's plugged into the loom and it should not give any codes.

max81 · Post by **max81** » 29 May 2013, 10:38

Wow,
Thank you. This pic is amazing. It still hurts to hear that you think that I won't be able to repair the ETM. This is all meant to find out if the valvebody fix acctually worked or if this car needs a transmission rebuild.
What partnumber shall I look for if I look for a new throttle body? Any yellow label ETM?
Would bbreman or Xemodex be able to fix my ETM?
Thank you for your support.

max81 · Post by **max81** » 29 May 2013, 11:01

I know this might sound very stupid but car's have never been something I was interested in only since this piece of issues started failing every some weeks I started to do DIYs.
If you were in front of my car what easy checks would you do before buying more and more pieces.
I mean things that anyone of you would do right away but a greenhorn simply doesn't do.
With all these codes this girl spits out is there any chance I will ever have it running again?
Thank you

Max

Post by **precopster** » 29 May 2013, 15:19

There's a eBay seller (internationalautopartshaus) who has sold me two units for stock. One was an '05 and the other an '08 build. Both landed in Australia for less than $200. Both units scan clean.

If you can't clear your codes replacing the film with a non-contacting sensor won't solve the problem. I repair these now for the Australian market and have had over 32 units on the bench.

Does your throttle flap operate freely by hand or does it bind?

As I already mentioned 8644347 ( always go for a yellow sticker not white) from any P2 5 cylinder turbo

max81 · Post by **max81** » 29 May 2013, 15:38

What do you mean with: "If you can't clear codes". I can clear them for a while with my VIDA (ETS light off) Then it idles fine. After some minutes of driving it gets bad again and new codes come up(not always the same codes though). The flap moves freely. Even the VIDA ETM test showed that both sensors were only off by 3 degrees. I could get one from a junkyard: yellow 04 label for 70 bucks. Would you repair that unit right away?

Post by **precopster** » 29 May 2013, 16:04

Any ETM from junkyard would need to be scanned first. I would then fit the non contacting sensor to it. Have you replaced the ETM relay? This can give you the codes you've had or the board on the ETM is faulty.

You need to have 9150 or 9160 codes if the films are worn through. Take a look at this ad for info:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151049573726 ... 1555.l2649

max81 · Post by **max81** » 29 May 2013, 17:31

Okay thank you. Do you mean this?
"If you have codes P1017, P1019, P1020, P1021, P1043 and P1052 TOGETHER check & clean your EARTH strap on the engine block near the oil pressure switch. If this appears OK replace the engine management relay located in the engine bay fuse box near the left strut tower part number 9441158. Also check the 10A FUSE # 2 in this fusebox (if after 2000 model it will be fuse #7)."
They call it engine management relay though. Where is this EARTH strap or let's ask differently.
Where is the oil pressure switch?

Thank you precopster.

Max

Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Re: Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures