Official Engine Stalling Thread

767 · Post by **767** » 08 Dec 2005, 12:02

My 2001 v70xc has stalled numerous times while driving 65 mph with the cruise control on. The message is reduced pwr protection mode. After turning off the ignition key the car starts right up and drives normally.
Any ideas?

buja · Post by **buja** » 14 Dec 2005, 22:04

MY 1999 V70 XC stalled today. I was on my way to dealer. it stalled three times. when it stalled, I turned eng. off and restarted it. Then was able to drive barely to the dealer. They will check next day and will call me. hopely ETM failure.

lankservices · Post by **lankservices** » 28 Dec 2005, 16:35

My 98 S70 T5 problems started as stalling but now I have no-start at all. Shop wants to replace ECU. Thanks for all the notes. I plan to discuss with the technician at Swedish Engineering who's had the car since October.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 29 Dec 2005, 09:54

The other day I really got on the gas and at the top of the power band the engine sort of choked. Now when I let my foot off the gas the car dies and not keep an idle. I replaed the fuel pump relay, changed fuel filter, and fully charged the battery with no improvement. The only code I ever got on the car in the past was a EFI-232 which i decided to investigate. Found out that vaccume leaks were a major contibutor. After a little checking, I finally found medium size vacuum hose has been disconnected. Connected it back up and the car runs fine now.

bob s · Post by **bob s** » 29 Dec 2005, 18:37

my 94 850 was intermittently stalling while driving, would happen while foot was being letoff the gas pedal. it could happen at 20 mph or 70mph, didn't matter what speed . might not stall for week or would stall 2 or 3 times a day, never knew when it would happen,at first it would start up right away and as it happened more it would sometimes take 10 minutes of waiting before it would start again.i read alot about the fuel pump and relay but i thought if it was the relay getting hot, then it would always keep happening and not weeks between, i also didn't think it was a bad fuel pump either because when they go i think they just quit (which happened to me with a truck) or they constantly get worse,not weeks between.also when it stalled i pushed the schrader valve on the fuel rail and gas came out which told me that the pump had pressure and the fuel pump relay gave it the electricity to make the pump work
i have seemed to fix my problem by getting a spray can of fuel injection throttle bore cleaner (not carburator cleaner)i bought mine from pep boys and following the instructions on the can and throughly cleaning the throttle bore and also the hose coming from under the valve cover.this hose had alot of oil sludge in it. also there were 3 (90 degree shaped) rubber vacuum hoses connected into a vacuum port that were cracked,which i replaced with regular vacuum hose ,make sure u don't have a kink in it, i also removed that vacuum port and cleaned that with the throttle bore cleaner.
my car has not stalled out for over 2 months now. not once.i think the throttle plate gets sludge deposits and it doesn't have proper clearances around the throttle bore. when the oxygen sensor is reading the exhaust emissions it then tells the computer how to adjust the air/fuel ratio

and i think it just all gets all these screwy readings and stalls
hope this helps with some of you

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 30 Dec 2005, 12:10

bob s wrote:

"....i think the throttle plate gets sludge deposits and it doesn't have proper clearances around the throttle bore. when the oxygen sensor is reading the exhaust emissions it then tells the computer how to adjust the air/fuel ratio.."

I think you hit the nail on the head here bob. My thinking too and this is a heck of a lot cheaper cleaning the ETM and vicinity elbows/hoses than having it replaced. I've been using bolt lubricant myself because that is what I had lying around the garage.

I'm getting about 3 months in between ETM cleanings now.

Francis · Post by **Francis** » 09 Jan 2006, 08:41

Since doing this back in Sept. my car has not stalled once, I plan to clean the tb again in the spring. 1994 850 212000

Francis wrote:I found the tb cleaning, new fuel pump relay, along with replacing several rubber elbows throughout the vacum lines to have fixed my stalling problem. When pulling the throttle body out I noticed several cracked elbows including the two connected to the tb. My car seems to have more umffff now, it's been a week since making these repairs.

Now who has replaced thier own pnp switch

bobs,2nd posting · Post by **bobs,2nd posting** » 09 Jan 2006, 09:57

mine hasn't stalled either since cleaning mine(i also fixed 3 small cracked vacuum line in my original fix).
i've been thinking more about volvo owners saying that their dash light went on ,which would happen if your car stalled,even when driving at highway speed, you may have thought it was running when u were actually just coasting, mine would do that when i was cruising on the highway at 65mph,i couldn't feel the stall,just saw the dash light come on and when i pushed the gas pedal ,nothing , but i knew it was stalled,when in reality i was just rolling and would eventually roll to a stop
another owner stated that the car was in cruise control setting, the same stall could very easily happen then also, when your car is set in cruise control and your car is set to maintain a certain speed that you set, any time the car reaches that speed or you may hit a decline grade in the road and your car wants to speed up, then your car will ease up on the gas. it like the same thing as taking your foot off the gas pedal when driving on the highway and you find your speed increasing.
when the throttle closes because of the dirty throttle bore i believe the car is not getting the right amount of AIR. i think what is happening is that the car is running and your foot is only the gas and all of a sudden you take your foot off and the proper amount of AIR can't get into the intake (because of the dirty throttle bore) that the car is actually flooding from the gas, that would also be why the car won't start for 10 minutes after, i would bet that after the car stalled and you took out a spark plug you would find it wet with gas.
has anyone ever put there hand over the air intake on a carburator of a running lawn mower? it stalls instantly. same principle i belive is happening with these random stalls

voltech1 · Post by **voltech1** » 12 Feb 2006, 03:40

850 with intermittent dying/hard starting can have cracked solder joints in fuel system relays. Check fuel system relay under fuse panel (four T-25 TORX) it is 103 or J relay I cannot remember. Also check main fuel SYSTEM relay on top of radiator (next to cooling fan relay) the cracks are hairline and hard to spot in some cases.
S/V/C70 cars with electrical issues and hard starting can have corroded B+
cables. Check front fuse panel for copper colored wire connection it should be bright and clean, if not replace it.
All 1999-2001 cars with ETM and your car is dying while driving go directly to the dealership and get it cleaned/fixed. They are under waranty for 10 years 200k miles and can leave you stranded in oncoming traffic if not taken care of.

keensali · Post by **keensali** » 12 Feb 2006, 18:51

My 95 850 turbo wagon was stalling at any speed, on or off the fuel pedal. I read as much as I could here and decided to target all likely issues. I replaced the fuel pump and filter and the relay. It has been many months now and not a single stall. Which one was it? I have no idea, but the money was well spent and the work was not hard to do at all. Being crunched into the back of the car working on the pump was no fun, but anyone with some skill level can get it done. Read the service manual and this site and it will go well. One point is to keep an eye on the gasket for swelling if you intend on re-using the old one(it was rubber on mine). The terminal wires on the pump did not like coming off after many years in the tank. Be careful there too, I had to put a new connector on. The lines were all quick disconnect for the pump and the filter. The filter was just inside the right rear wheel well. Only issue there was the bolt holding the filter in the braket broke, easy fix by simply attaching another nut and bolt with a lock washer. I left all of the covers off on the inside for a couple of days jsut to check for leaks. I also kept a close eye on the filter for leaks for a day or two as well. Nothing leaked and all is well with the stalling issue. Now I have to pursue the front end wobble and put new struts in the front end....good luck with your stalling issues......without this website life would not be the same, thanks Mathew and all who give input.

Official Engine Stalling Thread

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