Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Post by **precopster** » 29 May 2013, 17:52

That's my own eBay ad. The oil pressure switch is above the sump on the intake side of the engine near the middle.

On your C70 it probably looks more like a 1999-2000 model V70 under the hood so your fuse would be number 2.

Use the XeModex video tutorial when re-assembling. That should keep your times down as it was shot on a P80 series Volvo like yours.

max81 · Post by **max81** » 30 May 2013, 09:29

So you want me to check and if necessary replace the relay with the part number 9441158?
So with ETM relay you mean engine management relay? The part itself seems pretty well priced. Is it difficult to replace and can I damage other circuits? I can't express how grateful I am for your help.
Just another question: Have you ever heard that a failing ETM leads to extensive vibrations from the engine when accelerating in gear 1 and 2? This is what my car did or does.

Thank you

Max

Post by **precopster** » 30 May 2013, 15:27

If the power source for the ETM is suspect then the car"s ECU will detect it momentarily turning off and call up ETM codes. I've seen ETM boards shut off while idling then start again in a split second. This sends the ECU into a fit and causes limp mode.

As far as causing vibration anything is possible as I've seen throttle blades vibrate when they get to the worn film. In your case because you only got a 3% variation during the sweep test I don't believe the films are a problem (this is what the Sacer mostly adressess)

max81 · Post by **max81** » 30 May 2013, 17:18

So 941158 is the part you are talking about? How do I check the relay?
Can it really be simply a fuse or the relay even if the sweep test works fine?

Thank you

Max

max81 · Post by **max81** » 30 May 2013, 17:25

Piece number 16 on this webpage?
http://www.jimellisvolvoparts.com/showA ... ct=7085588

Post by **precopster** » 30 May 2013, 17:57

You just replace them. The part number matches.

Fuses are either on or off. Once they are off they stay off until replaced.

max81 · Post by **max81** » 01 Jun 2013, 16:29

Alright, You said that I shouldn't repair this ETM but after it was already built out of the car and the epoxy was off I gave it a shot.

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I ran the sweep test while the car was still out of the car and this is what I got.
The plate didn't fully close and vibrated in high frequency while opening and closing.

. You can see that the two sensors are reading quite the same ( would have rotated the magnet before finally building the ETM in, right now max. difference is 0.9 degree).
The plate also didn't fully close during the Test.
Now here are my questions?
I don't remember that I saw this vibrating pattern during the first sweep test with the old sensors but
not 100% sure (it was my first day ever using the VIDA Dice so I didn't print out)
Could the sensor be the reason for these vibrations?
Could it be an internal fault in the ETM as precopter suggests? (Please see description of pic)
I couldn't find the relay with the part number precopter gave me but I took a picture of the fuse box

: Fuse box description says "1" main relay, engine system.

This part has the part number 9494448 and is the only one that seems to be related to the engine managment. I also couldn't find a fuse 2 or 7 that was anyhow related to the ETM or engine control.

The realy number 1 is the blue relay on this picture

.

Shall I still change this relay? Could this cause these vibrations?
I also couldn't find a 10 A fuse related to the ETM. Any suggestions?
What could I have done wrong during the repair to get these vibrations now?
Is there another fuse box under the hood apart from the 2 on the driverside strut mount tower?

Thank you for your help!

Max

Post by **precopster** » 01 Jun 2013, 17:33

Did you match the voltage from the old sensor?

Part number I provided was misleading so it's 9494448 relay 1 in the P80 series (blue)

I've amended my ad

If you want to be certain replace this relay.

Your graph looks very good but I'm more concerned with your electrical system because of the codes you've been getting. Have you checked your earth and cleaned it?

Sorry have to say that soldering job looks awful. Bend the pins so that they have pressure with one another as I suggested in the pic a while back. When they vibrate with the engine the first thing to fatigue is the soft metal solder which you are using as a mechanical join instead of electrical. Also with heat in the engine bay the tape will turn into a gooey mess and allow the black lead to vibrate against the alloy cover. I have learned the errors of my ways and use the new putty and small weights while it's drying to secure the lead. Also I don't cross the lead over itself as it may lack clearance with the alloy lid.

Don't worry about fuse 2 or 6 . It's fuse 6 in LHD markets on the P2 series. If it's blown nothing will work. When you pull fuse 2 with the ignition on you'll hear the ETM click On and Off.

Rotating the magnet doesn't differentiate the voltage between the 2 sensors. There will always be .02V or so difference between them. On the other side you can test voltage between pin 2 & 4 (2 being the one with the black lead.)

Rotating the magnet adjusts both voltages front & rear so you can match the original voltage.
It adjusts the voltage of both sensors.

max81 · Post by **max81** » 02 Jun 2013, 00:30

Okay will resolder the connections and change the relay and yes I measured the old voltages.
I will have to turn the magnet counterclockwise to be closer. The original read 0.63 now it reads 0.57.
At basline-position it is closer 1.38 vs 1.35 (new).

I would like to draw your attention to one fact. When running the ETM sweep test the ETM was still not fully installed so I could look at the plate while it was moving. During the sweep test and only during the sweep test, the plate flattered in a high frequenzy which is also reflected in the test lines. Please see the spiky pattern of the lines.

: ETM TEST (2).jpg (22.96 KiB) Viewed 1832 times

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: ETM TEST (3).jpg (7.27 KiB) Viewed 1832 times

Is this normal? Has anyone seen this phenomenon before?
I ran the test several times. During one test the plate was suddenly flip-floping very quickly (open-close, then back to the normal course of the testing). Has anyone experienced this before?

How do I clean the ground and where do I find it?

If we determine this ETM as dead and I find another ETM, what do I have to do?
Do I need a new software for the new ETM?
My VIDA says I have the latest software and gives me a software number. How can I marry an new ETM with my system? If I can't do it, who can do it? A dealership?

Thank you!

Max

Post by **precopster** » 02 Jun 2013, 00:57

Replace the relay and retest several times because that flip flopping is not normal during the sweep test. It should cycle 3 or 4 times from closed to fully open and back with no clicking.

It's either the relay contacts arcing and momentarily shutting power to the ETM or the board of the ETM momentarily failing

The attached sweep test is from a perfectly healthy ETM. It has now been in the car for 6 months. I have another 10 sweep tests if you want to see them.

All your questions except how to clean an earth contact are answered in previous posts

Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures

Re: Volvo s60 P/N 8644345 2001 non-turbo ETM pictures