$10,000 S80 Challenge Topic is solved

[abscate]

You are going to drive a luxury car for 10 years on 10k. Amazing

Realize that most of America would lease three cars for this time and shell out about $60000 or more.

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

ABSCATE makes an excellent point.

The S80 is an amazing ride and with some preventative maintenance it should last a long time.

I enjoy watching videos from an S80 owner in the UK.

The video that I am sharing is an example of what not to do.

However most of the Videos made by DRIVELIFE are excellent examples of what to do and the joy of S80 ownership.



I wanted to share this here because even though the video is for a diesel powered S80 the Belt failure and immediate loss of power steering is exactly what would happen for a gasoline powered 3.2.

Please don't assume that I am calling out the YouTube creator. Quite the opposite I am showing his video because it is a real world example of what happens if maintenance is deferred. And I really appreciate that DRIVELIFE was willing to share his experience so openly.

Having said all of that part of the reason that I created this thread is to show what is likely to fail on the 3.2 and what should be done preventatively.

I am going to post some things that I think should be fixed preventatively.

Do me a favor and if you like this level of detail then please press the THANKS button.

If I don't get any THANKS I will still post the information but in separate threads instead of this thread. (if the readers of this thread aren't looking for more details on how to evaluate and repair a 3.2 then I will focus this thread more on cost and high level summaries of what failed and when it failed.)

Please stand by for my next post

Paul

[pgill]

3.2 Serpentine belt evaluation (also applicable to 3.0T)

This is the serpentine belt one way clutch overdrive pulley.
Checking the function of this pulley is extremely easy.
Engine off....Just try to move the serpentine belt at the AC compressor.
It it moves easily in one direction the pulley is fine.
If not then replace the pulley.

When the overdrive pulley fails it will seize and behave like a solid pulley.
This will put extra stress on the belt.

The service interval for the belt is every 150,000 miles.
I recommend replacing the belt and overdrive pulley and idler pulley and the tensioner as soon as the overdrive pulley seizes or 100,000 miles which ever come first


Here is a thread on the LAND ROVER board that shows what need to be done.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32103.html


Here is a video that shows a solid pulley vs. AOP vs. AOD

The important take away from the video is that the belt in the 3.2 or 3.0T will look like the AOD when the pulley is working and when the pulley stops working it will switch to the unacceptable loading of the solid pulley.

As mentioned above to test the pulley just remove the engine cover and try to move the belt. It should move freely in one direction and not in the other just like a ratchet.



Please let me know if you want more detail like this or I can start a new thread if that makes more sense.

Thanks

Paul

[pgill]

_________________________________________________________________
Serpentine Belt Replacement Volvo S80 V70 XC70 XC60 3.2 and Land Rover LR2
_________________________________________________________________
OE PARTS LIST-----------------------Land Rover Part #----------Volvo Part #-------------
Serpentine Belt--------------------------LR003570---------------------31251046
Tensioner----------------------------------LR004667---------------------31401286
Idler Pulley--------------------------------LR006076---------------------31401193
O-ring for Power steering pump-----LR009387---------------------???????
Overdrive pulley-------------------------LR005993---------------------31316803
Note: Land Rover and Volvo parts are interchangeable and in fact identical
__________________________________________________________________
OEM Substitute Parts
Continental Belt-------------CON-6K1200
INA Tensioner----------------INA-5340324100
FEBI Idler Pulley------------FEB-37515
INA Overdrive pulley-------INA-5350195100
Note: I used a simpler overdrive pulley from :Pro-Parts Sweden 28436803



Procedure

- Disconnect the battery electrical connections (B- then B+)

- Also disconnect the hold down clamp



- Remove the battery




- Remove the battery tray

- On the S80 the Hood (Bonnet) release cable will be in the way




- Remove the bolts shown and brackets (I rotated the upper bracket upside-down and it slipped out)



- Compress the tensioner






- Remove the Bolts for the AC Compressor




- Remove the mounting bolt for the tensioner

- Remove the tensioner




Remove the two small Torx bolts that clamp the Spring coupler to the Pump Pulley

No picture of the bolts for the Power steering pump but those had to come out as well.

- Two hidden bolts and a bracket with two more bolts

To make the job significantly easier the high pressure connection for the power steering needs to be removed.

Based on what i read on the Volvo forums removing this connection could result in a leak to prevent this I replaced the O-ring




Remove the bracket under the AC compressor (I marked mine to make sure it went back to the same place)






The Overdrive Pulley is now accessible (pry off the cap using a pic tool)








You will need a tool like this to remove the pulley






Pulley removed




New Pulley installed






Challenges
_____________________________________________________________
1) I was only able to move the AC compressor slightly out of the way
2) The bolts for the power steering pump pump were hard to get to
3) Removing and installing the tensioner was difficult
4) The spring coupling between the water pump and the power steering pump is very confusing


Reassembly tips
__________________________________________________________________________
- be sure to reinstall the alignment pin for the power-steering to water-pump connection

- Volvo will sell you this part (I reused mine and wrapped it in Teflon tape)



- Spring coupling from the Power steering pump to Water Pump

- Make sure that the end of the spring is secure in the correct location (Green Arrows)

- I wasn't careful enough and I assembled the spring so that the end was near the red arrow.

[abscate]

Is the overdrive pulley a RH or LH thread?

[Steve H]

Standard RH thread

[pgill]

MVS Readers,

Warning this is not S80 content. This is from my other P3 3.2 that happens to wear a LAND ROVER badge.

However I am posting this here because I think all P3's could have this happen to them

P050B Cold Start Ignition Timing performance

Here is what happened

1. My daughter needed to take her cousin to the Airport

2. I check to see how much Fuel was in the tank and confirmed that the engine would start right up (which it did and it ran beautifully for 15 or 20 seconds before I shut it down)

3. 30 minutes later the Cousin arrive and it is time to go.

4. My Daughter starts the Engine and is shaking violently and it sets the check engine light

5. I instruct my daughter to power down the engine and start it a second time (it is still shaking violently)

6. Plan B (My Daughter takes my Audi)

I grab my Autel AL539B and I start the engine and check the data. Only one thing looks out of the ordinary. The Purge valve (which routes collected vapors from the fuel tank into the engine to burn them off) is open 80% to 90%. Normally the ECU will open the valve at some moment that the user won't even notice.

Here is what I think happened.

A. The fuel vapor recovery system needs to be purged

B. By starting the engine I fooled the ECU into thinking that the engine was Warmish

C. A Warmish engine should be able to run even though extra fuel is entering the intake manifold but my engine was more Coldish than Warmish (Let's call this an edge case)

I've owned my LR2 3.2 with the Volvo Engine since 2008 and this is the first time in 14 years that I needed to start the engine and run it for a brief amount of time and the ECU needed to open the purge valve. Note: on Garbage day I do start the engine move the vehicle and then shut it down so that I can put the can where the vehicle was but the purge valve never decided to run when I did this.

This incident happened a few weeks back and it hasn't returned and I've tried to Cold start it; run it for 20 seconds and then start it again 20-30 minutes later and it runs fine.

I suppose that I will get this code again sometime in the next 14 years.

One last thought. If I had been traveling and this had happened to me I would have assumed that I had gotten bad gas. But the reality is that the root cause is actually USER ERROR. In my defense show me where in the manual it says not to do what I did. (If I had REDLINE authority I would add it or maybe I would just let other P3 owners know to be aware of this.........I think I just did that)

Take care

Paul

[abscate]

That’s classic lawn mower syndrome. Basically a cold start needs 2-3 minutes of running to burn off the excess gas.

In a severe case you lose compression and you think the engine is destroyed.

[pgill]

I replaced the Auxiliary Belt, and two pulleys
Note: the pulley for the tensioner is the same pulley used for the idler, I didn't replace the tensioner because it was working fine.

Good Stuff Paul!

What's expected of rebuild tensioner now that ONLY its pulley is restored?

Happy New Year!

X_Heart,

It appears that you can predict the future.

To save on cost for my S80 I replaced the pulley for the Tensioner and I substituted an inexpensive overdrive pulley for the overdrive decoupling pulley. For reference on my 2008 LR2 I replaced the Tensioner with a new Land Rover part but I used the same inexpensive overdrive pulley.

The pulley in the Land Rover is working perfectly but the pulley in the Volvo stopped ratcheting.

I don't know if the part that I bought was poor quality or if three years is typical for clutched pulleys like this.

Full disclosure: I have high expectations for anything like this that I replace and if I am able to evaluate that the component has stopped functioning then I am going to replace it. My expectation exceeds any Volvo or Land Rover maintenance guideline. (Let me give an example of my expectation for a different part: Brake Caliper pistons shall be easily seated using only my hands or I am going to refurbish the caliper until I can easily seat the piston.)

So what did I do?

I purchased a new tensioner. OEM from Gates.

And I purchased a new overdrive pulley. OEM from INA.

Original Tensioner vs. OEM Gates Tensioner

IMG_7460.JPG (211.92 KiB) Viewed 2760 times

Gates Part number

IMG_7461.JPG (142.26 KiB) Viewed 2760 times

Close up of original tensioner

IMG_7466.JPG (180.04 KiB) Viewed 2760 times

Close up of Gates Tensioner (Note: the removal of the FOMoCo part number)

IMG_7465.JPG (158.4 KiB) Viewed 2760 times

Original Over Drive pulley vs INA Overdrive pulley

IMG_7464.JPG (210.58 KiB) Viewed 2760 times

INA pulley part number

IMG_7467.JPG (224.37 KiB) Viewed 2760 times

Summary

I am surprised that the inexpensive pulley from Pro Parts Sweden failed so early. And the money I saved by using inexpensive parts was exchanged for my time to tear everything apart and fix it a second time. In retrospect I should have bought the more expensive parts the first time.

Take care

Paul

[abscate]

I am surprised that the inexpensive pulley from Pro Parts Sweden failed so early. And the money I saved by using inexpensive parts was exchanged for my time to tear everything apart and fix it a second time. In retrospect I should have bought the more expensive parts the first time.

That’s signature material right there