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The $10k S80 Challenge

A little over two years ago, MVS Contributor Paul decided to challenge himself. Could he buy and use a 2nd-gen S80 for 10 years or 100k miles for $10k or less, including the cost of the car?

Here is the challenge

  1. Buy a S80 sedan
  2. Fix everything that ails it, including preventative maintenance for any common failures
  3. Drive it for 10 years or 100,000 miles
  4. Keep track of purchase price and all maintenance (cost of parts only, labor is free)
  5. Do it for $10,000 or less

Become an S80 DIY Jedi

Not only is this a very interesting read on being very fiscally responsible while being very safe on the roads, and have AWD, but it’s a great way to learn about DIY servicing your second-generation S80.

This thread is overflowing with DIY tips on everything you can expect on a 2010 Volvo: filters, oil, brakes, replacing the alternator, servicing the Haldex AWD system and over a dozen other things. I can’t stress enough the utility of this S80 Volvo Forums thread.

Second Generation Volvo S80

See for Yourself:

February 2020 Update

The S80 is amazing. Heated seats in the front and back. Extremely reliable and dependable.

I don’t get to drive it that much (My Son drives it every day to work)
I do get to fix it (But I haven’t been doing much of that because it just keeps going).

Cost update 2/26/2020

$7400 — Purchase price

$62.53 — (31401556) — Booster O-rings

$16.36 — (AISIN T-IV) — ATF

$40.35 — (DENSO 5344) — Sparkplugs

$00.00 — Filter housing

$51.47 — (Mobil 1 0W-40, Oil and Filter)

$58.28 — (LR006071) — Thermostat

$00.66 — (LR001505) O-ring for 30713530

$24.29 — (30713530) — Coolant hose

$23.99 — (31439821) — Coolant

$22.71 — (14520, 14526) — Michelin wipers

$68.85 — (31272677) — Oil Filter housing

$18.92 — (LR006076) — Idler pulley

$18.92 — (LR006076) — Tensioner Pulley

$08.97 — (PK060473 CONTITECH) — Aux Belt

$112.70 — (LR021634) — Motor Mount

$23.24 — (30680474) — Torq Mount

$20.95 — (31390880) — Cabin Air Filter

$15.76 — (UD1306) — Front Brake Pads (Amazon close out price, typical price is ~$75)

$51.47 — (Mobil 1 0W-40, Oil and Filter)

$523.23 — AC repair

$43.37 — Overdrive pulley ProParts Sweden 28436803

$52.39 — (Motul x-clean 5W-40, Oil and Filter)

$16.36 — (AISIN T-IV) — ATF

$200 —- Zephyrus Wheels

$430 — Nokian ZLINE A/S All- Season Radial Tire-235/45R18 98W

$60 —- Mounting and balancing

$38.67 —- CONTIMODKIT TPMS Service Kit

Total $9450

January 2021 update

Rear Brake rotor and pad replacement. (with Electric Parking Brake)

The motor for the Electric Parking Brake must be retracted before the piston can be pushed in. To retract the motor I used an old battery charger and the leads from my volt meter. I unplugged the electrical connector from the caliper and I used the end of the leads that normally connect to the meter to connect to the spade lugs on the caliper. And the pointed end of the leads I connected to the battery charger clamps. I have a switch on my drop lamp that I used to turn the batter charger on (this allow me to turn off the power very quickly if the connection was backwards). Note: If the leads are connected backwards then the motor in the caliper will clamp not release, I got lucky and I connected it correctly. The motor spun for about 5 seconds and as soon as it stopped I turned off the power.

Everything else was typical brake R and R. I did leverage against the old pads to compress the piston.

Note: because of the electric motor on the caliper a large C clamp (or G clamp depending on where you live) can’t be used.

I do have a special tool that pushes against the caliper and piston and it would work fine for this job but I just used a pry bar.

While I was in there I also replaced the brake fluid (a complete flush, I have a motive brake bleeder which work really well for this)

And because I was working on the brakes I noticed a week ago that the front caliper weren’t providing equal pressure (confirmed when I drove the car around the block and then I washed my S80 and one side was very warm and the other side was hot, the steam from the boiling water confirmed my diagnosis). To fix the uneven braking (Note: if I let you test drive my S80 its very unlikely you would notice the uneven braking it was very minor) I removed the front calipers and used compressed air and new brake fluid to work the piston back and fourth until it could be easily compressed by hand. I did this on my LR2 with very similar brakes about 3 years ago and the braking on my LR2 is amazingly even.

The time and effort Paul puts into this topic is worthy of a medal. He’s meticulous in both S80 servicing and his documentation. Many thanks to Paul, and to all the Volvo warriors out there who offer so much help to others for little recognition.

To find out if he’s stayed under or gone over the $10k mark, click the link and take a peek:

The $10k Volvo S80 Challenge

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