Well, considering we've had a few "they came right out with a bit of PB Blaster soaking" comments at this point, I'm not going to try and make this job any harder than it needs to be! I'm going to continue to soak the nuts at regular intervals until I can do the work, then get it up on a lift and hose them down while the engine cools and take my chances. That being said I also know better than to force a fastener that is putting up a fight so I have some backup plans.
I would imagine this is a whole different animal on something with cast iron heads where the studs are much more likely to seize in the head, but I am guessing the different materials and thermal expansion/contraction of the hot exhaust parts make these more likely to come apart smoothly than some other fasteners.
Replacing exhaust manifold and gaskets on 96 R. Likelihood of breaking studs?
- slickdizzy
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Re: Replacing exhaust manifold and gaskets on 96 R. Likelihood of breaking studs?
~Desmond (Current: 1996 854 R, Past: 1998 V70 GLT, 1997 855 R, 1988 744 Turbo, 1993 965)
- slickdizzy
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Wanted to follow up with a conclusion since I did this job today.
I didn't break a single bolt or stud the whole time! For a 170k car that was sold new in Chicago, everything came apart remarkably smooth. Even the turbo to manifold nuts came off with no struggle. Hosing down all the fasteners with PB Blaster a few times the week before doing the job likely helped quite a bit. All but two manifold to head studs came out with the nuts, but I had new ones at hand so it was no big deal.
The hardest time I had, funny enough, was getting the new turbo oil drain tube in place with its new O-ring. It took some muscle to get that into place and then get the Allen bolts started in the turbo...
I didn't break a single bolt or stud the whole time! For a 170k car that was sold new in Chicago, everything came apart remarkably smooth. Even the turbo to manifold nuts came off with no struggle. Hosing down all the fasteners with PB Blaster a few times the week before doing the job likely helped quite a bit. All but two manifold to head studs came out with the nuts, but I had new ones at hand so it was no big deal.
The hardest time I had, funny enough, was getting the new turbo oil drain tube in place with its new O-ring. It took some muscle to get that into place and then get the Allen bolts started in the turbo...
~Desmond (Current: 1996 854 R, Past: 1998 V70 GLT, 1997 855 R, 1988 744 Turbo, 1993 965)
- volvolugnut
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I have an exhaust manifold leak on my 1977 V8 Ford truck. I did the other side several years ago and got to practice drilling. I had to remove the fender to gain access. I will be using PB Blaster before attempting bolt removal.
volvolugnut
volvolugnut
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Volvo: 2001 V70 T5, 1986 244DL, 1983 245DL, 1975 245DL, 1959 PV544, multiple Volvo parts cars.
Mercedes: 2001 E320, 1973 280, 1974 280C, 1989 300E, 1988 300TE, 1979 300TD, parts cars.
2009 Smart Passion
Ford: 1977 F350, 1964 F150 (2), 1938 Tudor Sedan
Farmall tractors: 1956 400 Diesel, 1946 A
And others.
- abscate
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I’m into my fifth valve job on the p80 chassis, all from crusty Northeast cars and never had a broken exhaust stud. I suspect good choice of steel from Bulten is the difference here. I generally Dremel and split any nut that stays on the stud , and use all new nuts always, and replace any marginal studs
Dremel the slot, bang it once with chisel, and it’s off. 40 seconds with Dremel.
Dremel the slot, bang it once with chisel, and it’s off. 40 seconds with Dremel.
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Empty Nester
A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
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A Captain in a Sea of Estrogen
1999-V70-T5M56 2005-V70-M56 1999-S70 VW T4 XC90-in-Red
Link to Maintenance record thread
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