Replacement interval for accessory and timing belt tensioner and pulleys?

[scot850]

It does actually happen on Volvos. P80's have been highlighted on MVS with this happening. Not common by a long shot, but not unheard of either.

Neil.

[454cid]

Problem is, more often than not the serpentine belt will get sucked into the timing belt on these engines and grenade the entire motor. Which is why serpentine belt replacement is almost as important as timing belt replacement on these

You're saying that the serpentine belt makes it through the timing belt cover? Still, there would have to be a problem with the system for it to break. Unless our cars are somehow more prone to it than other's I don't see the risk. I've never had a serpentine belt come off on any vehicle. I'll admit, I haven't closely looked at the design of our tensioner, as compared to what I've had on my GM vehicles, so maybe there's something there.

[FireFox31]

V50M66 is speaking to my preventative nature. I replaced the accessory tensioner on my two cars I'm selling, so surely I can replace it on the T5M that I'm keeping. I'll see if FCP can adjust that $65 extra that I paid for it somehow.

Seems like the answer is replace it based on preference - proactively at timing belt change or run till it gets noisy.

Tangential topic: How well is the timing belt protected by the cover? The covers up to 1998 and from 1999 on seem different with -1998 looking more enclosed. Where are the entry points for foreign objects in these two models?

[454cid]

V50M66 is speaking to my preventative nature. I replaced the accessory tensioner on my two cars I'm selling, so surely I can replace it on the T5M that I'm keeping. I'll see if FCP can adjust that $65 extra that I paid for it somehow.

Seems like the answer is replace it based on preference - proactively at timing belt change or run till it gets noisy.

Tangential topic: How well is the timing belt protected by the cover? The covers up to 1998 and from 1999 on seem different with -1998 looking more enclosed. Where are the entry points for foreign objects in these two models?

My preference for waiting, in part, comes from the idea that often a replacement part isn't the same quality as what the vehicle was built with, by the time I own it. I'd much rather run a quality part with some miles on it, and just monitor it's condition, than replace it with a potentially inferior part.

Good question on the covers. I've never examined mine closely. I do know that they are important if you decide to hit a snow bank and pack your engine compartment full of snow, as it will cause the engine to jump timing... I learned that at about 20 years old with a Chrysler 2.2L 4cyl. I had taken the cover off so the engine would look more racey

[V50M66]

V50M66 is speaking to my preventative nature. I replaced the accessory tensioner on my two cars I'm selling, so surely I can replace it on the T5M that I'm keeping. I'll see if FCP can adjust that $65 extra that I paid for it somehow.

Seems like the answer is replace it based on preference - proactively at timing belt change or run till it gets noisy.

Tangential topic: How well is the timing belt protected by the cover? The covers up to 1998 and from 1999 on seem different with -1998 looking more enclosed. Where are the entry points for foreign objects in these two models?

My preference for waiting, in part, comes from the idea that often a replacement part isn't the same quality as what the vehicle was built with, by the time I own it. I'd much rather run a quality part with some miles on it, and just monitor it's condition, than replace it with a potentially inferior part.

Good question on the covers. I've never examined mine closely. I do know that they are important if you decide to hit a snow bank and pack your engine compartment full of snow, as it will cause the engine to jump timing... I learned that at about 20 years old with a Chrysler 2.2L 4cyl. I had taken the cover off so the engine would look more racey

Get a genuine Volvo belt then. Even less to worry about. Not replacing the belt is just dumb and you’re running on borrowed time if you do it

[V50M66]

V50M66 is speaking to my preventative nature. I replaced the accessory tensioner on my two cars I'm selling, so surely I can replace it on the T5M that I'm keeping. I'll see if FCP can adjust that $65 extra that I paid for it somehow.

Seems like the answer is replace it based on preference - proactively at timing belt change or run till it gets noisy.

Tangential topic: How well is the timing belt protected by the cover? The covers up to 1998 and from 1999 on seem different with -1998 looking more enclosed. Where are the entry points for foreign objects in these two models?

Yeah just replace it. It’s not worth it to wait, especially since it’s gonna be apart anyway. There’s no better time to replace it.

Not sure how well protected it is, but I wouldn’t risk it. I did buy a V50 for parts that had this happen to it. Serpentine belt snapped at a stop light, got sucked into the timing belt, and blew the motor.

[FireFox31]

That settles it for me. I'll replace the tensioner. It's for the T5M, of course I want it to be great.

454cid has a point about decreased parts quality. Even Volvo is changing how they manufacture their parts. The Volvo front wheel hub dust boot was made in Germany about six months ago and is now from China. The Bougicord wire bundle used to have holders for all the wires and now they don't (new cheaper manufacture process?). Someone here mentioned that replacement GKN axle boots fail after a few years like clockwork while I have original GKN boots with 350k miles. Newer might not always be better. Try to compare new to old parts for country of origin and subtle variations.

[V50M66]

That settles it for me. I'll replace the tensioner. It's for the T5M, of course I want it to be great.

454cid has a point about decreased parts quality. Even Volvo is changing how they manufacture their parts. The Volvo front wheel hub dust boot was made in Germany about six months ago and is now from China. The Bougicord wire bundle used to have holders for all the wires and now they don't (new cheaper manufacture process?). Someone here mentioned that replacement GKN axle boots fail after a few years like clockwork while I have original GKN boots with 350k miles. Newer might not always be better. Try to compare new to old parts for country of origin and subtle variations.

Smart.

I'd much rather have newer parts than questionable worn out stuff when it comes to wear items and things that you rely on to keep your car safe and functional.

It's not like Volvo doesn't have quality standards anymore, and I wouldn't trust any 25-year-old stuff to not disintegrate with all those heat cycles and years in the elements.

If you're really worried about it, go Genuine Volvo for everything - the quality is still great. I do for seals, but the rest aftermarket is usually fine. Just do your research - that's the important part.