Welcome to the S60, V60 and XC60 Forum!

[e53turner]

Anyone else having a false oil level reading on their 2015.5 S60? I let it set overnight reads between low and full, drive it in the morning, park it for a few hours , recheck reads full. I have found that if it is between full and low it might need about 4 ounces to top it up, seems a little weird.

[regent]

Seems to be the "Electronic Dipstick" thing...
Diff. between Full and Low should be 1 Liter.

If you have access with VIDA/Dice you may want to read the actual level in [mm] and see how much is in there. You will need the oil level sensor Part Number (there are two versions, older and newer with different mm-to-volume calibration curves).

Look at this thread from swedespeed:
www[dot]swedespeed[dot][com]/threads/low-level-engine-oil-warning-on-three-month-brand-new-2015-xc60.220663/#post-2422809
Hope this helps

[psdgmavtnet]

Thanks for the welcome! Just bought a 2021 Volvo V60 Cross Country when my cherished 2000 Volvo V70 finally had too many needed repairs to justify expense, including serious rust issues. My current question is can the automatic tailgate functions be turned off so it doesn't hit my hitch mounted bike rack and be operated manually?

[theWIFES_S70]

Hey everyone, we just picked up a 2015 S60 T5 Platinum... Where do I find the service schedule for this car? And I know it's significantly more complicated than our old S70 or my 07 S40, but what is and what is not doable? Thanks!

[BlackBart]

What are owner's experiences with Series 1 V60s? I'm doing some reading and learning about the various engine packages available, and here was quite a comment on an Edmunds review page. Did he get a bad example, used, with neglected maintenance? Did he skip some critical maintenance like the PCV system and then complains about the resulting problems? He's obviously paying dealer parts and service prices. Curious.

2015 Volvo V60 T5 Drive-E Wagon (2.0L 4cyl Turbo 8A)
IGNORE THIS INTRO, this all headed south starting at 110,000 miles. I have the V60 T5 Drive E. 2.0T . E is for economy, and for highways it really works, good for an easy 3 to 5 mpg increase if you let it work and keep the speed reasonable. Actual RPM at 70 MPH is under 1800, wow for a 4 cylinder to run that relaxed is amazing. Very high quality feel to everything in the car, the plastics don't feel cheap, don't rattle, and have great texture. You have to watch the rear brakes, the electronic emergency brake eats the inside pad. I bought the car in 2018 with 66,000 miles on it, and it's over 91000 now. no issues (that changed at 110k) . The Leather is really nice, but it is ungodly HOT, and stays that way for the entire drive. Air conditioning is slow to cool the car, once cool, it does well, but its annoying that it can't cool it down before I sweat into the seats. Nav system is unusable it is so cumbersome to program, but the audio system is amazing. I can bluetooth my phone to the car and use it's navigation app or stream music. I really love this car, BUT alas, no great handling powerful fuel efficient ride can justify the ongoing maintenance nightmare she has turned into. I bought her with 66k on the odometer. At 110,000 she started burning $8 quarts of oil, often twice between oil changes, was told nothing to see here, normal at that mileage. At 142k she failed on a 600 mile drive. I learned that oil burning is a result of a clogged PCV system that caused oil from recirculated crank case gasses to be sucked into the engine intake and burned, a failure that is well known but not talked about. At the same time, I lost the thermostat assembly, which is not a $6 part any more, it cost $220 and requires the intake be removed to replace it. $560 total. 143k I lost 2 mass air flow sensors. $750 to replace, the sensors were over $300, for a $30 part on most cars. At 150k scheduled maintenance cost me $1100 for timing belt and water pump. Don't fall for the water pump at timing belt change, it's electric and easily replaced when it starts failing. Pump is $720 from Volvo, yes, for a water pump, thank goodness there ARE aftermarket pumps ($380 to $580) At 156k, idle racing issues started, engine was running at very high RPM with revving. First part needed was a purge valve, small simple solenoid, $154. At 158k, they still aren't done fixing it, Still racing and revving. Now its a valve cover vent and air intake vent that broke. Because crank case gasses STILL aren't being recovered correctly and the pressure blew out the these cheap plastic vents. This car was a new drive train for 2015, no long term high mileage test results were available when I bought her. Turns out, like many European cars, the hype is in the luxury appointments and handling, not the reliability. I stuck it out with my little sport wagon because I really do LOVE this car. Alas, I drive 600 miles a week, and no matter the love affair, when she starts stranding you constantly, it's time to part ways. I hope your Volvo experience is better. Get her PCV system inspected regularly for clogging. I suspect that is where all my failures are coming from, that ventilation of the internal pressure failed, and it found every weak spot it could to escape."

[volvolugnut]

Comments:
I do not know anything about this model Volvo.
However, the report above reads like someone still thinking of cars from the 1990's. Cars and parts cost more now. The cars built in the last decade are more complicated and require more service at higher cost. Volvo is a premium brand now and you pay extra for the upgrade.
Performance engines have always cost more and required more maintenance.
volvolugnut

[BlackBart]

Tru.

What you're saying is I need a 122 wagon.

[volvolugnut]

Tru.

What you're saying is I need a 122 wagon.

Yes, you do.
volvolugnut

[BlackBart]

It has no sensors. It does tell you if the water is hot.

[volvolugnut]

Just the basics - fuel level, water temp, and maybe oil pressure. Life was good.
(but there were points and condensors and carbs and rotors and plug wires and ..........)
volvolugnut