Head Gasket - Overheat Problem Identification??

[Fordman]

Ok
she's all together
I start it up and it runs but immediately the engine runs super fast like the throttle is wide open, but i don't have my foot on the throttle

also no codes, but I should at least get one because the lower front air damper is off.......

whats next?

[Fordman]

Had to enlist the assistance of my local pro auto shop.

The throttle spring was not installed by me correctly & after a 'smoke test', I had a vacuum leak, power to the ODB port was repaired.

Ok, she runs now and have driven her ~ 80 miles this weekend.

On my todo list:

1) don't like the throttle mechanism movement. Need to press the accelerator down ~3/4" till the car accelerates, the 'shock absorber' is extended all the way, then the throttle finally opens. I belive the spring is wound to tightly.

2.JPG (96.25 KiB) Viewed 4144 times

Can anyone tell from the pic? Where can I purchase another one?

2) Intermittantly getting code P0505 which might be related to above.

3) With dash temp gauge always horizontal - normal, going down the freeway running 205F, intown ~215F. Max I have seen 218F. Not sure if this is ok, seems hot.

4) the turbos 'paint' is flaking of as it seems hot.

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5) If I put her back together ok, what else could be contributing to the higher than what I perceive is normal temps? Could I have a cracked block? How does one test for a cracked block?

Thanks for any tips of comments.

-Fordman

[Fordman]

Tuesday. Back to the pro.

Pro found 400 ppm hydrocarboon exhaust gases in my radiator fluid once the car was warmed up. Either my new head gasket is no good, pinhole leak in my cleaned up $750 head or ?

So, whats next?

1) sell the car as is....need major engine work, brand new tires, great body and interior, super clean motor w/ $750 of new parts
2) pay the shop to zero down to the problem, next step, pressurize each cylinder at compression TDC to ~150 psi and look for bubbles/hydrocarbons in the rad fluid
3) at this point its not worth the risk to redo the head gasket only, so new head for sure at $1,200 minimum
4) buy a removed risky removed risky motor/long block ~$1,000
5) buy a quality rebuilt long block for ?? if I could find one, swap it out....
6) ??

And of couse, I am moving 1,000 miles away within the next week.......need to get the car there at another expense. How did I get here? risk, risk, risk

thanks for a decent ideas

-Fordman

[Ozark Lee]

Man, that is a tough call. In the process of moving isn't the most opportune time to deal with things like this but my gut instinct says to buy a decent used engine. If you can snare one locally and get it swapped out before the move all the better.

It makes for a great excuse for not packing.



I'm not laughing at you, I'm laughing (or crying) with you since that is better than crying by yourself. I feel real bad because I was a major enabler of you fixing the motor. It looks like you did everything right and I am curious, at the end of the day, where it went wrong.

In your case the path of least resistance is to throw it up on Craigslist for a song as is and remove it from your sight but that is certainly the least favorable option.

Keep the thread rolling until you have it resolved. It is obvious that you have good mechanical skills.

...Lee

PS - I had never responded on the burned paint on the turbo. I have never seen one painted. Did you paint it or did you get the car that way?

[charlyW]

I must say that is the best write up a cylinder head replacement I have ever read. It shows pictures of some of the more uncommon areas especially the TDC marks on the crank[chased round for days when I replaced the cam belt on my 93 N/A 850 trying to find it]

I have to do the very same as I'm now loosing coolant and its not the new pump installed in august as I've rechecked that.

Thanks I'm sure it will help loads of people. Can I ask if it can be moved pictures and all to the stickys/

Charlotte

[Ozark Lee]

This thread is pinned in the repair database.

...Lee

[Craigd2599]

Ya know...sometimes the simplest is the thing we overlook. Have you tried retorquing your headbolts? 400ppm is a lot but what would it hurt?

[Fordman]

Hello all,

**Off Topic**

I'm now in New Mexico, car still in California, need to ship or trailer it here.........once I'm settled here I will start again..........but what can we do to let F know that the sale of Volvo can not to a Chinese group, this would be tresanous and the end of this brand as we know it, does anyone alse feel the same? I'm not sure I could continue to be 'Fordman'.

-Fordman

[schigara]

FYI

W/ head pressure test by reputable machine shop in SLO = ok (test & valve job ~$850)-Fordman

WOW! $850 for pressure test and valve job?? I hope, for that money, they replaced every valve, seat, guide, spring and retainer. What exactly did the machine shop do for that much money?

A typical valve job, with no burnt valves or worn guides, consists of removing the valves and cleaning them, new stem seals and relapping the valves. I assume they also planed/resurfaced the head?

[proinfo57]

I think I may have a similar issue.
2000, v70 xc, (149,000)

The past few months I have notice the expansion tank let's off steam and some fluid. It is random, some times more severe than others. every couple of weeks I have to add fluid. A new thermostat was installed with no improvement. Now that the weather is cooled off, (South Carolina) on cold mornings the cars starts a little rough. If the car is warmed up a restart is normal. The engine appears to run fine after the initial "rough" cold start. It is getting progressively worse.

Is there another issue that could be causing the cold starts to be a little rough?

I like the functionality of the v70 XC, but my (97) 850 is more stable, and still running strong.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Tom