camshaft alignment

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 17 Feb 2011, 23:06

does any one have detailed info installing vvt on the exhaust cam on a volvo v70 xc se 2000

Post by **jimmy57** » 18 Feb 2011, 08:28

search repair database on here. Good write up on that topic is already there.

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 18 Feb 2011, 10:08

I did , couldn't find anything I'll try again

Post by **jimmy57** » 18 Feb 2011, 13:29

You place crankshaft in position by insertion of a tool into hole in side of block under plug below starter. Alternate is to use the marks on crank pulley. The marks on pulley on that car are in two places. A marking in casting immediately behind the serpentine belt drive pulley and two slight notches at back of tooth tops. The alignment is with the depression between two teeth tops. You MUST BE VIEWING THE MARK ON OIL PUMP AND THE CRANKSHAFT BELT GEAR MARKINGS STRAIGHT ON OR THE MISALIGNMENT WILL SET DTC'S.
Cams are installed in head and top of head is tightened in steps to pull cams against valve tappets in incremental steps. It helps to tap head top with rubber mallet to assure it goes nicely down on dowels. Cams should be in correct position using a locking tool on rear of cams. The tool holds cams where offset slot ground in exhaust cam is down and parallel to top face of head. Intake cam's slot is offset up parallel to top face of head.
Install front seals and then place intake gear on intake cam and faintly tighten one crew in rough middle position of its slots.
Loosen gear from CVVT and place it in rough middle of it slots and slightly tighten one screw.
Fit exh CVVT onto exhaust cam and place it 1 1/2 teeth left of the alignment notch on plastic top cover. tighten the TX55 center bolt securely but not torqued. Rotate the cam gear to right and check to see that it stops with the marks aligned gear to cover notch. IF not loosen center bolt and move as needed and then recheck full travel CW stop is now with marks aligned. Torque the TX55 to 89 ft-lbs. Install the TX55 plug and torque to 35 ft-lbs. loosen screw for gear on exh CVVT.
Fit belt around crank, idler, intake cam. Loosen intake gear screw. Use a ratchet and TX55 bit and insert into plug on CVVT and rotate it clockwise and wire the ratchet in that position. The lift eye on PS bracket works for anchoring wire. Be sure cam belt is behind ratchet. Now fit belt around the rest of the pulleys. Re-check crank and all other marks. Tension belt by rotating the 6mm allen on tensioner CW on that motor (CW on 4's and 5's, CCW on 6's) and go past the tension indicator position and then relax back to the correct place. This step assures cam gears move to proper places by assuring belt gets tight all way round. Tighten/torque tensioner bolt to 13-15 ft-lbs. Turn ratchet to right to assure the CVVT is against its CW stop and tighten the gear screws to 8 ft-lbs. Tighten the intake gear screws to 13 -15 ft-lbs.
Remove all tools and instal rear seal, CPS sensor gear, and intake cam rear plug.

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 18 Feb 2011, 14:24

That make as lot more sense I think i can do it now

I was starting to worry when I saw the vvt had no index or keyway. on it

I do have the full cam tool with the crank stop. these instruction sound like the are for dual vvt ..

If I have exhaust vvt only

I should only need to install the new intake cam seal and then the intake gears bolts and tightened correct?

Then with the vvt on the exuahst if i read this correctly..

I set the sprocket/ gear bolts on the VVT to center then tighten only one hand tight.
Then install the vvt so that it is turned all the way clock wise (only hand tight on the t55), and the timing mark lines up on the cover
Then loosen the vvt sprocket /gear bolt that I tightened to allow the timing belt to be installed.
(im guessing turn one tooth forward then slide on belt) once instaled tension timing belt tight and all marks should line up

Then tighten my vvt gear.

Then remove my cam lock tool. ?

Sorry if i had to re word it to make sensetome but doe that sound right?

Also the plug on the back side of the intake cam, I pulled it after dissasembling the head so i didnt put a hole in it. can i clean and reuse or should i order a new one form volvo or maybe get a freeze plug to replace it with ?

Post by **jimmy57** » 18 Feb 2011, 14:54

Single vvt, if yours was a double or intake only then I wouldn't have any instruction for fighting the spring in the exhaust vvt unit.
You can install all seals except the intake back plug before you start cam setup.
The rear plug can be reused but you need to clean opening in head and plug and use a thin application of RTV sealer.
When doing the initial setup, turn, and check on VVT the center bolt needs to be tight but not torqued and one of the bolts needs to be tight but not torqued so neither slip when you rotate against the spring force to the internal vvt stop.
WHen the belt tensioning step occurs gears must be able to move or belt will not tighten properly nor will gears "float" to correct locations.
THe initial install of VVT is 1 1/2 teeth left of marks then tighten TX55 and rotate to check. WHen agaisnt the internal stop the marks on VVT should align with top cover notches.
In the final step of VVT after belt is tightened the vvt may end up in center of its slots or to the right or left a bit. THe bolts should not be against end of slots. IF they are, the 1 1/2 teeth step with position check prior to torquing was done wrong somehow.

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 22 Feb 2011, 17:12

ok i have the head on and torqued also i didnt the angle 130 degrees with a gauge there really no creaking untill i went around again and made sure everything was snug

I'll start on cams and valve cover install tonight

I figured allow it to dry over night before screwing with cam seals and alignement or should I do it all at once?

Post by **jimmy57** » 22 Feb 2011, 19:10

It doesn't matter if you wait on timing and seals. You have to assemble and torque all those screws once the anaerobic (pinkish-orange sealer) is applied so it is assured to seal. The sealer is applied in a thin film to one side. It is applied like a single coat of paint. Excess just goes places where it does no good and way too much can be harmful.

mrjacobrussell · Post by **mrjacobrussell** » 02 Mar 2011, 12:40

I took the cam holding tool off. Then moved the crank back and forth several times after setting the tensioner to make sure everything is settled in.

these pictres taken after crank against the stop in the stop hole of the block and tensioner is set.

How does this look for alignment ??

Also I didnt do the hold the cam in place with a wrench and mechanics wire i was able to do it by hand.

Post by **jimmy57** » 02 Mar 2011, 13:01

The hash marks on gears is not at all important. It is the cam locking tool, crank positioning, and the cvvt unit being at its right stop when the others are in correct positioning.
The marks are only put on the gears so removing and refitting a belt (when gears are not loosened from cams) can be done easily. IF you buy new gears they do not have marks, you mark them after doing the initial setup.
Have you run it and have no camshaft positioning codes?

camshaft alignment

Re: camshaft alignment