Both ways...one way I strip it...
I suspect it's clockwise to remove due to counter clockwise rotation on pulley. But I can wait for an expert...
I'm amazed the Haynes manual has nothing on this.
Another problem...can't get IPD cam locking tool into position. It wants to go for 3 out of
4 prongs. If they had tapered the ends slightly it would work...
Timing Belt /Serpentine Belt Change In Progress Questions
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1997volvo850
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Re: Timing Belt /Serpentine Belt Change In Progress Question
Last edited by 1997volvo850 on 19 May 2010, 19:27, edited 1 time in total.
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NcTrooper10722001
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- Year and Model: 1998 850
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Nothing specific on alldata.. seems to me that it would be a lefty-loosey.. Drive tensioners are usually the one with the bass-ackwards bolts when applicable..
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NcTrooper10722001
- Posts: 35
- Joined: 2 January 2010
- Year and Model: 1998 850
- Location:
I wouldnt hold my breath waiting.. when you can try it both ways and see which way it goes.. Ive been doin it 18 years and hasnt failed me yet..10-4
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1997volvo850
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I suppose you're right. If it were strange (right-loosey) then I suspect it would be mentioned in a lot
of places in red type.
With this group I'm usually talking about waiting only five minutes. Thanks.
of places in red type.
With this group I'm usually talking about waiting only five minutes. Thanks.
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jblackburn
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It's a Counter-clockwise bolt (to remove). No idea about that old grease, but I'd be inclined to leave it alone if it's anything like the old cans of stuff I find in my dad's garage. 
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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cn90
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No Timing Belt lasts 230K miles. I am sure it was changed at 100-120K or so.
If I were you, at 230K, I'd replace everything in that area!
- Timing belt for sure.
- Cam seals x2
- Crank seal x1
- TB tensioner + Pulley
- Idler Pulley
- Water Pump for sure.
For Drive belt:
- New Drive Belt
- New Tensioner and Pulley Combo
- New Idler Pulley
Items #2 and 7:
If I were you, at 230K, I'd replace everything in that area!
- Timing belt for sure.
- Cam seals x2
- Crank seal x1
- TB tensioner + Pulley
- Idler Pulley
- Water Pump for sure.
For Drive belt:
- New Drive Belt
- New Tensioner and Pulley Combo
- New Idler Pulley
Items #2 and 7:
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+
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1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
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[quote="cn90"]No Timing Belt lasts 230K miles. I am sure it was changed at 100-120K or so.
If I were you, at 230K, I'd replace everything in that area!
/quote]
I have a new OEM water pump, OEM timing belt kit, new auxiliary belt.
1) - Timing belt for sure. YES
2) - Cam seals x2 I'm new to all of this. I don't think I am knowledgeable enough to do the cam
seals and crank seals. I believe I need a tool to lock the cams when I have
things apart. Tell me how much the dealer charges and I may reconsider.
3) - Crank seal x1
4) - TB tensioner + Pulley YES
5) - Idler Pulley YES
6) - Water Pump for sure. YES
For Drive belt:
7) - New Drive Belt YES
- New Tensioner and Pulley Combo NO I don't believe this makes any noise. The roller turns smoothly. I was planning
to grease the roller as preventative maintenance. What about replacing just the
tensioner pulley? FCP Groton sells these (aftermarket) separately.
9) - New Idler Pulley NO This squeals a little. I was planning to apply grease and see if the noise
goes away. Other forums report success doing this. I would definitely
keep an eye (more like ear) on it.
I still have potential white smoke problem so doing too much now doesn't make sense if I can't pass inspection.
I am willing to revisit #2, #3, #8, #9 if car passes inspection. #8 and #9 should be easy.
Thanks for the feedback...
If I were you, at 230K, I'd replace everything in that area!
/quote]
I have a new OEM water pump, OEM timing belt kit, new auxiliary belt.
1) - Timing belt for sure. YES
2) - Cam seals x2 I'm new to all of this. I don't think I am knowledgeable enough to do the cam
seals and crank seals. I believe I need a tool to lock the cams when I have
things apart. Tell me how much the dealer charges and I may reconsider.
3) - Crank seal x1
4) - TB tensioner + Pulley YES
5) - Idler Pulley YES
6) - Water Pump for sure. YES
For Drive belt:
7) - New Drive Belt YES
to grease the roller as preventative maintenance. What about replacing just the
tensioner pulley? FCP Groton sells these (aftermarket) separately.
9) - New Idler Pulley NO This squeals a little. I was planning to apply grease and see if the noise
goes away. Other forums report success doing this. I would definitely
keep an eye (more like ear) on it.
I still have potential white smoke problem so doing too much now doesn't make sense if I can't pass inspection.
I am willing to revisit #2, #3, #8, #9 if car passes inspection. #8 and #9 should be easy.
Thanks for the feedback...
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polskamafia mjl
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$500 for a TB job at the dealer? Maybe if you are married to them
Prices are usually upwards of $900.
'All my money is gone and I have an old Volvo.' - Bamse's Turbo Underpants
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
Current: 1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Manual - Bringing it back from the brink of death
Previous: 1996 Volvo 850 GLT - Totaled
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1997volvo850
- Posts: 359
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- Location: New York
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No response to my difficulties with getting the IPD locking tool on.
As noted in the picture in a previous post the marks were not perfect.
I'm wondering if this is why the IPD cam tool is not going in properly.
Should I remove the belt and move the cam slightly to install the cam tool?
As noted in the picture in a previous post the marks were not perfect.
I'm wondering if this is why the IPD cam tool is not going in properly.
Should I remove the belt and move the cam slightly to install the cam tool?
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