Timing Belt /Serpentine Belt Change In Progress Questions

[1997volvo850]

I decided to go ahead with the timing belt change even though it doesn't look like there is a
great deal of room to work...hope I'm not going to end up getting stuck. My lug nuts took me
an hour or so to get off, and that's only after I purchased a 1/2 drive monster wrench from Sears.
The shop must have put them on real tight because I was jumping on the wrench (both feet on
wrench handle) to get them off.

Okay. I'm just starting my timing belt project and I have a few questions:

1) Here is a picture of my existing timing belt timing marks. Are these acceptable? They look okay
when looking at them from above but the camera picks up a little different view when looking head on.

Timing Marks

2) After removing the serpentine belt and auxiliary drive belt tensioner I spun all of the rollers.

The auxiliary belt idler roller squeals.

Is this a matter of lubricating the idler roller? The 1995 850 service manual does not discuss lubricating this roller.
I haven't removed it yet because I thought I was doing the timing belt today...can you say project creep.

Auxiliary Idler Roller

The 1995 Volvo service guide that's online recommends lubricating the auxiliary belt tensioner every 30,000 miles.

When folks are changing the timing belt or serpentine belt do you normally lubricate the auxiliary drive
belt tensioner? Do you use the Volvo grease? Or will multipurpose grease work?

3) Water pump

Looks like I need to clean up my water pump some...haven't gotten close to it yet but looks like the seal is failing
which has resulted in this crystal structure on the water pump exterior.

Is it the seals that fail on these most of the time? This one is at least 80K old. I'll need to check my service records.
I've seen posts where it appears the seal failed and the individual replaces the pump. Is there ever the case where
you change the gasket and reuse the same pump? How many mile do you expect out of a pump?

I will install my new one so send me your offers on this slightly used one...

Water Pump

Thanks in advance for the help, I will likely be posting more on this or related things I run into as I'm doing this
project. So far I'm referring to the timing belt instructions here, on the volospeed site, the Haynes manual, and
a list of instructions from a valve replacement project.

Having fun so far. The lug nuts had me real worried for a while. Didn't want to spend $200 on an impact wrench
just for this,

[jda2000]

the marks look fine, but paint the marks on the cams also for easy double checking. Do you have the cam lock tool? Use it to prevent movement of the gears.

The roller needs replacing if squealing. Also you need a new water pump and tensioner while you're in there.

[cmblackburn]

It would be a really good investment to change that water pump while you're in there, especially since it looks like it's beginning to fail. Always better to be safe than sorry!

[wa98146]

there is also a third mark on a gear near the bottom... check that too, after the belt is on, rotate 2 times with a wrench, check and make sure the marks are alright before putting everything back together

[Georgeandkira]

Hello, The two rollers (idler and tensioner) don't count as "project creep". Finding the sweating water pump qualifies you as a lucky person. Since it's probably time to change your coolant anyway, add a can of water pump lube. A man who took care of many engines used the stuff and NOBODY in his family (or mine) ever had a problem. Also, as you may have read, start at the crank pulley and go "counter-clockwise" when you install the new belt. Keeping it tight around the idler and over both cam sprockets. Oh yeah, wire brush and anti-seize your lugs AND inspect the motor mount by the crank pulley. Kira

[1997volvo850]

Oh yeah, wire brush and anti-seize your lugs AND inspect the motor mount by the crank pulley. Kira

The lug bolts has something like dried oil or grease on them. I've cleaned them. So the anti-seize wont cause my lug nuts
to come loose on me? I wonder about lubricating them too much. I guess the correct torque is enough to hold them.

I read a tutorial on replacing the motor mount at the front of the engine. Looks simple. My only problem is I don't know
how to tell if it needs to be replaced. Does it show failure (cracks) or is there another test to check the mount is good?
Maybe I'll post a picture if that would help. Looked okay when I looked at it. It wasn't broken or cracked.


PS: I realize I mistakenly posted this in the v70 group. I've ask to move this thread to the 850 group so if it suddenly
disappears you'll know why.

[Georgeandkira]

Hello, A little anti-seize will not cause your lug bolts (or nuts) to loosen. You don't need much at all and everyone I know has always used it. The correct torque for wheel lugs is appx. 80 ft. lbs. Your new 1/2" drive is a good tool for proper torque. You are using the correct sized metric socket? Those big X wrenches are real cool but you frequently find that they're too thickly walled to get onto the lug's head. The cast alloy wheel doesn't allow enough clearence. If your lugs are anti-seized make sure to tell any service station or tire place that they are because excessive force and anti-seize can cause galling of threads. Regarding the front mount: If yours isn't torn it's probably OK. I had one which was half-way torn through and my engine wobbled alot. The same mount on my current V70 doesn't look torn but seems crushed down and has alot of play. From the frame (on which the motor mount sits) to the center of the bottom hole (there are 2 holes-one above the other) is 2.5". When I inspected my car I didn't make that measurment. I took it from the new mount. I'm changing it when I do my T-belt. If my old one is OK then the joke's on me. Kira

[1997volvo850]

Okay. Minor setback.

I can't fit a socket into the inch or so of space between the auxiliary drive belt idler roller bolt and the frame.

No doubt I can remove it with an open wrench or a stubby.

My concern is that my torque wrench will not fit into this space so I won't be able to torque the
roller properly when I install a new one. So how does it go, install new roller, hand tighten bolt,
remove engine from car, torque bolt, reinstall engine. Maybe drilling a large hole in the frame will
work...

You can imagine the worst case scenarios going through my mind...save $200 on doing the timing belt
only to have my new idler roller sitting on the highway somewhere...

Thanks,

[1997volvo850]

Local Volvo dealer does not stock auxiliary belt idler roller. Will order for $70. I thought I'd
check here before ordering.

Looks like IPD doesn't carry them (at least I can't find them on their site) and FCP Groton
sells after market rollers. Who is the OEM for the auxiliary roller? Does anyone carry OEM rollers?
How do after market compare?

Local dealer no longer stocks very many parts for the 850. I'm beginning to wonder if I should stock
up on OEM parts before they are no longer available...

Thanks

[Pauloil]

take out the 2 14mm bolts on the motor mount and jack the engine up an in. or so to give more room
also take out the plastic box around the computers a 10mm bolt and 3 clips