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DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Do It Yourself CV Boot Repair - Volvo V70
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erikv11
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Re: DIY: 1998 V70 Axle CV Rubber Boots Tips/Tricks

Post by erikv11 »

I didn't know where to look for the circlip on the outer CV joint at first, the pics are a little dark. So here are some pics to show it more cleanly:

The circlip is down in a recess between the bearing support arms, this is how you'll first see it after removing the boot (I cut it off) and wiping off the grease:
Image

Then here is a pic with the CV joint tapped out about 8 mm, you can see the CV is dislodged and the circlip is spread wide in the recess:
Image

A few more details here if you are curious: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=56276
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

Real fun stuff guys.
Now imagine the ride that is coming.
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Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

KlubMarcus
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Post by KlubMarcus »

ONV70XC wrote:$150 - $75 core deposit delivers you a rebuilt OEM axle with replaced axle bearings and it's much faster to replace for a notch of a difference. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm with you. My time is more important than the money saved. The real reason folks DIY is the fun factor and pride. So if I can't spare the time, I'm hiring professionals!
:o The beater just won't die! So we're clawing our way back to Stage 0.

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erikv11
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Post by erikv11 »

KlubMarcus wrote:
ONV70XC wrote:$150 - $75 core deposit delivers you a rebuilt OEM axle with replaced axle bearings and it's much faster to replace for a notch of a difference. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm with you. My time is more important than the money saved. The real reason folks DIY is the fun factor and pride. So if I can't spare the time, I'm hiring professionals!
In principle, I totally agree with the comment from KlubMarcus about why people DIY. But ONV70XC is pretty far off on the facts, so consider that:

- The only reliable rebuilt OEM axles come from raxles.com. The cost is about $200 per axle plus deposit. This is one of the main points that drives axle repairs on these cars: it is very difficult to find a good replacement, even rebuilt.
- You usually have to send Marty (at raxles.com) your axle and wait for it to get rebuilt and returned. He doesn't have many cores around.
- Therefore the cost (and downtime) difference is huge, at least $175, much more than a "notch of a difference" for me.
'95 854 T-5R, Motronic 4.4, 185k
'98 V70, T5 tune-injectors-turbo, LPT engine, 304k, daily driver
'06 S60 R, 197k
'07 XC70, black, 205k
'07 XC70, willow green, 212k
'99 Camry V6 :shock: 153k
gone: '96 NA 850 210k, '98 NA V70 182k, '98 S70 NA 225k, '96 855 NA 169k

Warren561
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Post by Warren561 »

Sorry to dig up such an old thread, but did anyone try using the GKN outer boot on the inner? cn90 mentioned that it should fit, but has anyone done it.

I want to make sure there's no clearance or other type of issues.

Thanks!

Bloitz
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Post by Bloitz »

My 2 cents to this thread:

I couldn't get the control arm of so I followed the process as detailed in this video:


Some notes for others:
- Possibly a European thing: Stabilizer link nut was 15 mm and I had to use a 16 mm wrench behind the mount. (16 mm of course isn't part of the average portable toolbox I was using)

- I found a steel brush very useful, especially if your CV boot is completely torn and there's grease all over the place.

- I removed the brake calliper. It doesn't take long and really makes things easier. Also a great moment to clean the bolts (Put them in an electric drill for easy cleaning :wink: ) and regrease them as well as inspecting/cleaning the caliper and piston. Wear a dust mask if you're going to use a steel brush and air compressor.
The bolts on mine needed a 7mm allen key, which, you guessed it, isn't part of those sets you can get.
Both my brake lines had cracks at the caliper so inspect them before you begin this and get new ones if needed.

I cursed and battered my left-side joint for 7-8 hours.
Some tips:
Get a heavy hammer (my brother eventually lended me a 1250g one), carpenter hammer just didn't do.
The circlip should be able to move, rotate around the axle. Mine didn't at first because the joint was already coming off a bit. This caused the circlip to be wedged in it's groove and unable to expand like it should. I didn't know this the first 7 hours ... :oops:
Once I figured that out I put the old nut on (there was a new one in the GKN box) to protect the end of the shaft and just smacked the axle on the ground, this immediately released the clip.
Few beatings later, it finally came off.
The right axle didn't have this problem and actually flung off after the first hit (the left one needed beating till the very end...). So have something ready to catch it from falling on the floor like mine did. I was very happy the thread wasn't completely damaged.

I completely took my CV joint apart for cleaning and regreasing. This write-up details the process nicely:
http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2802907

I think it's a great idea to put everything back in it's original position. Do make sure that your markings won't fade because that happened on my first one. Luckily there were minor marks from my battle with it so I eventually got it in the way it was before.

- If you don't have the right tool to pinch the clamps, it's possible to do it with a wire cutter but it's a PITA and I broke one of the bands. When I finished the second boot I just took it to my dealer and he did them for me with his tool.
Not 100 % sure on this but I think using screw hose clamps will interfere with the control arm ball joint connection and perhaps cause unbalance as well.

- If you have about 5 cm clearance between the oil pan and you to work with like I did, I suggest finding someone to help slide the right axle in. It's not hard to slide it in but with so little room you can't properly lift and rotate it in.

- Get a spray can of brake cleaner. Your tools will be dirty and that stuff is magic in a pressurized bottle!

All in all, I'm very proud of my work but what I anticipated would be a one-day job turned into a 3 day fustercluck.
I wasted a lot of time going to the shop to get something stupid like 1 7mm allen key ... Get the right tools for the right job and be prepared. It will save you time !Oh, and buy a box of latex gloves, and rags / paper towels. Went through 3 rolls of paper towels and 4 medium-sized rags ... BUT, I probably have the shiniest axles in the neighbourhood for the next 2 - 3 weeks :lol:
I must admit I might have wasted a lot of time meticulously cleaning and greasing everything I took apart. Especially reassembling the CV joint took a while because I was completely OCD about not getting any dirt in there :shock:

EDIT:
I am not sure if it is really necessary but I did get a wheel alignement after I put everything back together.

cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Thanks for that Audi link, amazing job that Audi guy did in his writeup!

Bienvenue sur le forum!
2004 V70 2.5T 100K+
2005 XC90 2.5T 110K+

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rspi
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Post by rspi »

Just replaced my passenger side assembly. I was in the junk yard the other day and seen a car that had a newish set of Volvo axles on it. Still had the stickers on them. Paid about $25 each. I feel so blessed. My passenger side had a torn boot and the drivers side is clicking.
'95 855 T-5R M, Panther - 22/28 mpg, 546,000 miles
'95 955 T-5R Yellow Wagon, Lemonade, 180,000 miles
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Bloitz
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Post by Bloitz »

cn90 wrote:Thanks for that Audi link, amazing job that Audi guy did in his writeup!

Bienvenue sur le forum!
Thank you for the warm welcome. I have been lurking here since the day I got it (somewhere in June / July IIRC)
(off-topic note: My native language is Dutch. Belgium has a Dutch and French speaking part (oh and a little German one as well, yea, we learn 3 languages in High School). Mais merci quand-même ;) ).

One more thing I would like to add as a preparation for this procedure:
Getting some transmission oil might not be a bad idea.
Depending on how the car is jacked up you might lose some (I have a manual ( it's GREAT. America, you're missing out !)) .
I replaced it a while ago and had an unopened bottle left. Weight should supposedly need to be 75W90 GL4 but there's a bit of uncertainty. Get good stuff because the Shell oil I got is kind of harsh when cold (still smoother than before).
I don't know if you're allowed to mix that stuff so you might need to drain everything or get some real Volvo stuff.
For a full fill-up you need about 2.2 litre ( ~ 2.32 quarts? )
From what I've been told, the level needs to be pretty spot on to not run dry or overheat.

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Post by xHeart »

The grease is spraying out at the passenger side inner boot, but no visible tear.
It appears the surface under the large clamp has developed a leak on 2001 V70XC.

The two front replacements 2007 Axle Shaft with 53,000 miles arrived yesterday with a visible disappointing tear at the outer boot. These axles were supposed to be free of any damage.
Is there a source to order two GKN outer boot PN31256231?
Would following this thread help restore it?
tear at cv joint boot
tear at cv joint boot
--
Golden-German Shepherd | 2021 XC90 T6 INSCRIPTION (Nexa) | 2020 V60CC (Frska) | 2013A XC90 (Lktra)
Past: Golden Retriever | 2001 V70XC | 1997 Volvo 854 | 1989 Volvo 740 GL | 1979 Volvo 240

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