oil cooler line replacement

[rrochell8]

Guy named Orlando over on Volvospeed use to do sell 3 different kits for oil hoses he re-manufactured. Put them on my car about 2 years ago. Holding up fine. He will even give you money back if you send him your old ones. Don't know if he is still making the kits or not.
http://auctions.volvospeed.com/DISCOUNT ... ad_details

Okay, here you go...found him. I bought the middle kit.

[bcv70]

After persistent discussions, the guy at sweedishautoparts.com called his part provider. He got back to me saying that they made a mistake and sent the non-OES part. I should receive the correct part at some point... quite annoying!

Holler1, I didn't explain properly, but the nut that was missing is the one every body seemed to have had problems with. The one that secures the lines brackets to the oil pan, with the AC bolt in front.

Thanks to all!

[holler1]

Holler1, I didn't explain properly, but the nut that was missing is the one every body seemed to have had problems with. The one that secures the lines brackets to the oil pan, with the AC bolt in front.

Thanks to all!

Ok, sorry I misunderstood. That is a standard hex-head bolt, I would guess around 12 or 14 mm size, about 3/4 inch long. If you have access to some different size bolts, to get one that fits, try some in the hole without the line bracket in the way. I think holding that bracket in the right position is pretty important to keep the lines secure.

[holler1]

bcv70,
I had my car jacked up today to check the balljoints, and checked the size of the bracket bolt for the oil cooler lines. It seems to be an 11 mm size, same wrench size as the oil pan bolts. I hate that bolt - it's hard to see and hard to get a socket on well.

[bcv70]

This summer, I changed the oil cooling lines on my v70, and a few days later they started leaking again, this time from where the lines fit into the thermostat. I must have cut one of the o-rings while installing the lines. Bumer! At the time, I didn't need the car and didn't have time to do the repair. Now I need the car. I ordered new o-rings from a dealer, but winter is here (-10C this morning) and don't have a garage to work in. I have a couple of questions for you guys....

Can I drive the car until the weather is ok for me to do the work? The leak is minor right now. Way less than when the line was leaking. Is there a chance that the leak will increase and all of the oil will empty while on the highway? Obviously I monitor the oil level closely.

My second question is if it's possible to do the work without draining the oil from the motor. I did when I changed the lines, and I can't imagine how it would be possible to take the thermostat off the motor without having the oil gushing out, but no post mentions that the oil has to be drained out. Maybe it's because it's obvious that the oil has the be drained out... maybe cause there's a trick that I'm not aware of...

Thank you for your help!

[holler1]

My second question is if it's possible to do the work without draining the oil from the motor. I did when I changed the lines, and I can't imagine how it would be possible to take the thermostat off the motor without having the oil gushing out, but no post mentions that the oil has to be drained out. Maybe it's because it's obvious that the oil has the be drained out... maybe cause there's a trick that I'm not aware of...

Thank you for your help!

I think the only oil that will drain out is what is in the lines and the radiator, which isn't a lot as I recall. The sump is lower than the thermostat.

[troutfanatic]

Help. I cannot get the two screws that hold the oil thermostat on. I have sprayed them with SB and everything. Are the T30 screws also, or something else? Thanks.

[rspi]

This is how I did it. I did not remove the oil cooler.

http://www.atthetipwebs.com/technologyi ... l_line.htm

[cn90]

I have a specific question re "Rectangular Seal" (The seal between the thermostat housing and the engine, PN 1366791)...

P.O. already replaced both oil cooler lines and O-rings at 140K. I am now at 160K and can see the oil leak in this area.

Can I replace the Rectangular Seal w/o disconnecting the oil lines from the thermostat? In other words, can I simply remove the 2 Torx bolts and replace the Rectangular Seal?

[castconcrete]

I seem to remember that others have actually recommended that the new cooler lines be installed into the thermostat before the thermostat is re-attached to the car...so you should be able to replace the thermostat o-ring in the manner that you are describing.